Ideas Where To Buy Engine Block?

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icejawa

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It has 4V open chamber heads but the incorrect engine that's in there has 2V heads so that's great lol

 

Hemikiller

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It has 4V open chamber heads but the incorrect engine that's in there has 2V heads so that's great lol
With a September casting date, I seriously doubt it has open chamber 4V heads. The 351CJ wasn't introduced until the spring of '71. 

If you're looking at the 4 and it has a "dot" next to it, that only means it's a 71-up head - nothing to do with the chamber type.

 
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It has 4V open chamber heads but the incorrect engine that's in there has 2V heads so that's great lol
With a September casting date, I seriously doubt it has open chamber 4V heads. The 351CJ wasn't introduced until the spring of '71. 

If you're looking at the 4 and it has a "dot" next to it, that only means it's a 71-up head - nothing to do with the chamber type.
 He was getting me confused there.

On a set of "N" heads I had (and sold), there was only a 4, my current GA heads have 4* (early 71 motor)

 He needs to pull the V covers off and look at the date codes on each, then check all the visible codes on various parts.

 

Hemikiller

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The heads have 0J26 (*4) and 0J22 (4*) casting
At that date, closed chamber.

There is a highly quoted website that has incorrect information about the 4* head marking. Not sure how a guy can write an entire book on the 351C and screw this up.

I have three sets of D1AE-GA closed chamber heads, all of then have the 4* marking





 

icejawa

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Well that's super good news, I was indeed misinformed by many sites. Thanks again

 
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The heads have 0J26 (*4) and 0J22 (4*) casting
 September 1970 and close together too. Awesome!

 From my info sheets, they ought to be "N" code, D0AE-N and they are listed a 11:1, 62cc CC heads. No idea if that's 100% correct, but that's what I have on them.

That N is harder to find, you'll have to remove the intake and use a mirror to look under the intake ports..... or pull the heads!

 

icejawa

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The heads have 0J26 (*4) and 0J22 (4*) casting
 September 1970 and close together too. Awesome!

 From my info sheets, they ought to be "N" code, D0AE-N and they are listed a 11:1, 62cc CC heads. No idea if that's 100% correct, but that's what I have on them.

That N is harder to find, you'll have to remove the intake and use a mirror to look under the intake ports..... or pull the heads!
Gotta do head gaskets anyways lol

 
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SVO2SCJ

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Those should be Closed chamber......NOW the question is about the fact that you said you have a BOSS 351. Are you going to have the heads machined to accept the Solid valve train parts????

Mark

 

icejawa

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I don't remember if I said I had a R code because I definitely have a M code lol

 

icejawa

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Just an update, the heads indeed are closed chamber. Great news, and I have stripped and painted everything but 1 of the valve covers. Luckily there was no rust on the internals and just thick coatings of grease to stop rust. However, on the block someone has snapped what looks like the heater hose fitting. I have to figure out how to get it out as it is broken off flush with the block.



 

machattack

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The heads have 0J26 (*4) and 0J22 (4*) casting
At that date, closed chamber.

There is a highly quoted website that has incorrect information about the 4* head marking. Not sure how a guy can write an entire book on the 351C and screw this up.

I have three sets of D1AE-GA closed chamber heads, all of then have the 4* marking



Howdy,

just a quick question for folks with less knowledge. So....... closed chamber heads produce how much more H.P over a 2v 351c ?  Is it worth the cost to change??

Thanks

 
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Hemikiller

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Just an update, the heads indeed are closed chamber. Great news, and I have stripped and painted everything but 1 of the valve covers. Luckily there was no rust on the internals and just thick coatings of grease to stop rust. However, on the block someone has snapped what looks like the heater hose fitting. I have to figure out how to get it out as it is broken off flush with the block.

That's the heater hose return tube. To remove the remains, you can just use a hacksaw blade on the inside to cut through it and then just fold it in upon itself. 

You have a couple options for replacement - standard press in tube, or thread the block and use a screw in tube. 

Press in tube

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6601580

Threaded tube

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-heater-hose-connectors-5-8-in-hose-x-3-8-in-npt-x-1-5-8-in-long-nipple-56358/5014050-P

 

Q1SVT

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Just an update, the heads indeed are closed chamber. Great news, and I have stripped and painted everything but 1 of the valve covers. Luckily there was no rust on the internals and just thick coatings of grease to stop rust. However, on the block someone has snapped what looks like the heater hose fitting. I have to figure out how to get it out as it is broken off flush with the block.

I am late to this thread... first congratulations on finding correct dated motor...  I have an early Jan 70 motor, so I am always interested in them [most C data skips over that year],   So, I have two questions, do the valve cover internally have the boss 302 style drippers?  Does the oil pan have what people refer to as the 351c CJ baffles? [lol the came w/70 M code motors first] and does your block still have the extra valley drain oil holes? [someone posted the pic of them early in he thread].

Thanks for anything you can share ...

 

Q1SVT

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A D0AE-J block has oil drain holes at the BACK end of the block, not the best as this was changed on next engineering change. They were eliminated and moved to the front of the block. I know this because I had one a couple of year back and sold it.

Geoff.

NOT all changes are a good thing...   When did Ford Motor Company drop out of racing?  Under high speed/loads oil can/does build up... makes it tuff to flow out the front.     Those block were gold to those that knew   [bean counters just cut steps, to save money].   Like I inferred in the prior post, 70-M code motors came with performance parts oil pan baffle, extra drain back holes, VC drippers, the rocker posts could be cut & drilled for 7/8 rocker studs, Higher compression heads 61.3 - 64...  Oh and Bunkie had been fired and Mr 'I' did not like what was done to 'HIS' stangs  lol

Yes company politics play a roll in things

 
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NOT all changes are a good thing...   When did Ford Motor Company drop out of racing?  Under high speed/loads oil can/does build up... makes it tuff to flow out the front.     Those block were gold to those that knew   [bean counters just cut steps, to save money].   Like I inferred in the prior post, 70-M code motors came with performance parts oil pan baffle, extra drain back holes, VC drippers, the rocker posts could be cut & drilled for 7/8 rocker studs, Higher compression heads 61.3 - 64...  Oh and Bunkie had been fired and Mr 'I' did not like what was done to 'HIS' stangs  lol

Yes company politics play a roll in things
Yes, I believe you're right. In hind sight, knowing what I know now, I wish I'd kept that 70 J block instead of getting rid of it believing it was no good BECAUSE of the rear drain holes, to buy a 71 L block that turned out to have been cracked and welded. I dumped that block too along with a set of GA heads and a set of N heads with posts. Hind sight, hind sight!

I do have a set of valve covers with the drippers, but that's all I have left.

IMG_0352_LI.jpg

 

icejawa

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my oil pan has the baffle and the valve covers have the drippers, the block also has the 2 oil holes

NOT all changes are a good thing...   When did Ford Motor Company drop out of racing?  Under high speed/loads oil can/does build up... makes it tuff to flow out the front.     Those block were gold to those that knew   [bean counters just cut steps, to save money].   Like I inferred in the prior post, 70-M code motors came with performance parts oil pan baffle, extra drain back holes, VC drippers, the rocker posts could be cut & drilled for 7/8 rocker studs, Higher compression heads 61.3 - 64...  Oh and Bunkie had been fired and Mr 'I' did not like what was done to 'HIS' stangs  lol

Yes company politics play a roll in things

 
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If you are going to race anything other than 1/8 and 1/4 mile you need to go to dry sump system. Talked to lots of cares and track days guys and they all say dry sump. The oil will have not issue draining back with the holes in the block not that much oil up there anyway. It is a little over $3,000 for a 5 gallon dry sump system for 351 C. I will be buying one. Been looking at used NASCAR but been too long looks like has to be new. 

 
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