Ignition issue

[MNMustang73]

When I start my car the key will not spring back to run and unless I manually turn it back then it will keep the starter engaged.  Is this an issue with the cylinder, ignition switch or something else?  In short, what controls the spring action?

:chin:

 

[Don C]

The spring is in the switch, on top of the steering column under the dash.

 

[Danno]

The spring is in the switch, on top of the steering column under the dash.

Mine does the same thing, but only in cold weather.

 

[MNMustang73]

The spring is in the switch, on top of the steering column under the dash.

So I have pulled the cylinder just to be sure and it looks really clean.  The rod that goes down the top of the steering column goes into a piece that I do not know the name of but I can tell that its packed with dirt and dust.  Is this the switch?  It appears to me that I have to remove the steering column to get to this piece?  Before I tear into it too much and/or take more apart then I need to, can you give me some further direction?  Thanks

 

[MNMustang73]

The spring is in the switch, on top of the steering column under the dash.

So I have pulled the cylinder just to be sure and it looks really clean.  The rod that goes down the top of the steering column goes into a piece that I do not know the name of but I can tell that its packed with dirt and dust.  Is this the switch?  It appears to me that I have to remove the steering column to get to this piece?  Before I tear into it too much and/or take more apart then I need to, can you give me some further direction?  Thanks

Ok, so I think I just found my answer in another post from 2017.  It is the switch that I can see and it appears that I will be removing the steering column.

 

[Don C]

You don't have to remove the column, just drop it down some, and leave the rag joint connected. However, if the rag joint is as old as the switch now would be a good time to replace it too.

 

[MNMustang73]

You don't have to remove the column, just drop it down some, and leave the rag joint connected. However, if the rag joint is as old as the switch now would be a good time to replace it too.

Is what you refer to as the rag joint the seal at the firewall?

 

[MNMustang73]

You don't have to remove the column, just drop it down some, and leave the rag joint connected. However, if the rag joint is as old as the switch now would be a good time to replace it too.

Is what you refer to as the rag joint the seal at the firewall?

I see what the rag joint is.  I had already removed most of the hardware holding the column in place prior to seeing your reply so I will probably go ahead and pull the column and replace both the seal and the rag joint.  Any thoughts on the newer urethane steering column shaft coupler vs the OEM style?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Don C]

I haven't tried them, so I don't know if they have enough flexibility to allow for some angle between the column and gear box, while having enough torsional rigidity to not introduce play into the steering system. Some of our other members have likely tried them and will read this thread and chime in. You might try searching our forum and see what you come up with.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I had a similar problem with mine.  I'd rebuilt the column (had some broken pieces on the original, and some other broken pieces on the ebay 'replacement' I'd bought - made a good one from both), and I was sure I'd replaced the ignition switch itself with a new unit (the one toward the bottom of the column where the ignition circuit plugs in).  

About a year after getting the car running, I noticed the 'spring-back' function wasn't working and eventually failed altogether - I had to rotate it back to 'Run' after engaging 'Start,' otherwise the starter motor would 'grind' after the engine started up.  Since I was 'positive' I'd replaced the ignition switch, I'd taken the top end of the column apart a few times to inspect and clean the key lock mechanism with no improvement, so I just got a new 'bottom end' ignition switch and replaced it - problem solved.  In comparing the 'spring back' function of both the old and new switch, there was a definite difference (the old one was just worn out).  Haven't had a problem since.

To replace it, I took the bottom dash cover, column trim ring, and steering wheel off, unfastened the column bracket and let the column droop down as far as it could.  It takes a little bit of contortion on your part to get to the switch, but it's not too horrible... even for a big guy like me.  Unplug, remove, replace, replug, give it a quick test (battery disconnected, of course), and put it all back together in the reverse order it came apart.

Hope this helps.

 

[MNMustang73]

I had a similar problem with mine.  I'd rebuilt the column (had some broken pieces on the original, and some other broken pieces on the ebay 'replacement' I'd bought - made a good one from both), and I was sure I'd replaced the ignition switch itself with a new unit (the one toward the bottom of the column where the ignition circuit plugs in).  

About a year after getting the car running, I noticed the 'spring-back' function wasn't working and eventually failed altogether - I had to rotate it back to 'Run' after engaging 'Start,' otherwise the starter motor would 'grind' after the engine started up.  Since I was 'positive' I'd replaced the ignition switch, I'd taken the top end of the column apart a few times to inspect and clean the key lock mechanism with no improvement, so I just got a new 'bottom end' ignition switch and replaced it - problem solved.  In comparing the 'spring back' function of both the old and new switch, there was a definite difference (the old one was just worn out).  Haven't had a problem since.

To replace it, I took the bottom dash cover, column trim ring, and steering wheel off, unfastened the column bracket and let the column droop down as far as it could.  It takes a little bit of contortion on your part to get to the switch, but it's not too horrible... even for a big guy like me.  Unplug, remove, replace, replug, give it a quick test (battery disconnected, of course), and put it all back together in the reverse order it came apart.

Hope this helps.

This is great information.  I plan on tackling this issue as soon as the parts so up in the next couple of days.  I’ll keep you posted on my progress.  Thanks

 

[Stanglover]

You don't have to remove the column, just drop it down some, and leave the rag joint connected. However, if the rag joint is as old as the switch now would be a good time to replace it too.

Is what you refer to as the rag joint the seal at the firewall?

**NO the rag joint is what connects the box the column and allows flexibility.**

I see what the rag joint is.  I had already removed most of the hardware holding the column in place prior to seeing your reply so I will probably go ahead and pull the column and replace both the seal and the rag joint.  Any thoughts on the newer urethane steering column shaft coupler vs the OEM style?

Thanks for your help.

 For the rag joint replacement, I suggest going online to Rock Auto, pull up 1971,72 or 73 Mustang, steering, and look for steering coupler. The Lares 201 is a the part you need. The only difference is the 'safety pins' are the same diameter. Do NOT buy the Scott Drake one. These crucial safety pins are TOO short to connect with the column base-plate, therefore useless. The pins do NOT affect the steering, they are there in case of emergency so you don't loose total steering control. I believe the Ford design with one pin larger than the other, was for quick assembly on the line and no other reason.

Geoff.

 

[tony-muscle]

I had a similar problem with mine.  I'd rebuilt the column (had some broken pieces on the original, and some other broken pieces on the ebay 'replacement' I'd bought - made a good one from both), and I was sure I'd replaced the ignition switch itself with a new unit (the one toward the bottom of the column where the ignition circuit plugs in).  

About a year after getting the car running, I noticed the 'spring-back' function wasn't working and eventually failed altogether - I had to rotate it back to 'Run' after engaging 'Start,' otherwise the starter motor would 'grind' after the engine started up.  Since I was 'positive' I'd replaced the ignition switch, I'd taken the top end of the column apart a few times to inspect and clean the key lock mechanism with no improvement, so I just got a new 'bottom end' ignition switch and replaced it - problem solved.  In comparing the 'spring back' function of both the old and new switch, there was a definite difference (the old one was just worn out).  Haven't had a problem since.

To replace it, I took the bottom dash cover, column trim ring, and steering wheel off, unfastened the column bracket and let the column droop down as far as it could.  It takes a little bit of contortion on your part to get to the switch, but it's not too horrible... even for a big guy like me.  Unplug, remove, replace, replug, give it a quick test (battery disconnected, of course), and put it all back together in the reverse order it came apart.

Hope this helps.

I also have the weak spring-back problem going on. I replaced the switch but that didn't help much. I ended up adding a spring on the shaft coming out of the switch. This helped but sometimes it doesn't return all the way to run. The starter would be disengaged and the engine on, but it stays in that middle spot where the engine will be running but no electrical is supplied to the rest of the car.

In regards to replacement it is very easy as explained here. Done it many times while adjusting it. A ratcheting wrench works wonders for this job.

 

[MNMustang73]

Thanks for all of the advice guys. I have replaced the switch and it is springing back again. As Don suggested, I am going to replace the rag joint as well since I have it tore down. Now I am just waiting on the new rag joint to show up and then I can put it all back together and see how it feels.

Again, thanks for all of the replies and advice.