Manuel Shifter Boots 1972 Mach 1

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Michael O’Harran

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I have 4 questions on Manuel shifter boots.

I am looking for a shifter boot replacement and finding a little difficulty in knowing which way to go. I see different universal boot kits but they offer different base sizes.
1. Does anyone know off hand what the floor opening measurements are so I can get the right one?

Then I have been scouring internet photos to find what the right look was for 1972 Mach 1 and the replacement choices are all over the map.
2. Does anyone know what the original right look is?

I have been reading the reviews and people seem to all experience boot tearing from shifting. Some of the after markets have plates on top where the shifter exits the boot. I’d imagine that is a design to minimize boot tearing.
3. Has anyone used these to offer an opinion on how well it does or doesn’t work? Or best coarse of action for boot longevity and protection from tearing?

I am using the full length center console with clock. I see and understand the boot plate that goes on top of the boot but under the console. Those plate references 3 and 4 speed transmissions. I have a Tremec 5speed transmission.
4. Will that plate work or should I use something different?

Thanks for any help.
 

Hemikiller

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Depends on the shape of your shifter stick. Original 72 would have been a round Hurst stick. NPD says their replacement works.


70-71 used a rectangular shifter. The 71 shifter boot is unobtanium, so most use the 1970 part.

 

Michael O’Harran

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Depends on the shape of your shifter stick. Original 72 would have been a round Hurst stick. NPD says their replacement works.


70-71 used a rectangular shifter. The 71 shifter boot is unobtanium, so most use the 1970 part.

Thanks. Mine is rectangular. Any thoughts on those with the metal at the top to increase longevity and fight tearing?
 

Michael O’Harran

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I don't now any details of what you have, dimensions, offset, etc, but this works on rectangular handle for 1970 Boss 302. I've used it for several years with no boot failure. Chuck https://www.musclecarresearch.com/7277-1
Interesting. I'm gonna give it some thought. Little concerned about cutting the opening and it possibly coming out a little sloppy rather than more finished. Thanks.
 

Hemikiller

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Thanks. Mine is rectangular. Any thoughts on those with the metal at the top to increase longevity and fight tearing?
I've used the rectangular one for years, did have to replace the first one after ten years or so. I'll go with the one with the insert when I replace it again.
 
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For my 71, I used the NPD 7277-3B part, but I found a trick that seems to be working well. I did open up the slot just a little to allow more free movement against the stick. I made an insert from some 1/8" poly-pro, cut the rectangular hole and fitted it into the top fold. I roughened the surfaces, thoroughly cleaned the rubber (brake cleaner works well for this) and glued the poly-pro insert in with my fav product, "Automotive Black GOOP" adding more over it all and allowing it to cure for several days. The last one I did has been on the car for nearly 10 years now without issue.
Where there's a will, there's a way.
Oh! one more thing. I added a thicker (3/8") plate between the floor and the mini console as well as an extra 1/8" plate under the boot so as to greatly reduce the gap between the boot and the console. No pic of that I'm afraid.
 

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Michael O’Harran

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For my 71, I used the NPD 7277-3B part, but I found a trick that seems to be working well. I did open up the slot just a little to allow more free movement against the stick. I made an insert from some 1/8" poly-pro, cut the rectangular hole and fitted it into the top fold. I roughened the surfaces, thoroughly cleaned the rubber (brake cleaner works well for this) and glued the poly-pro insert in with my fav product, "Automotive Black GOOP" adding more over it all and allowing it to cure for several days. The last one I did has been on the car for nearly 10 years now without issue.
Where there's a will, there's a way.
Oh! one more thing. I added a thicker (3/8") plate between the floor and the mini console as well as an extra 1/8" plate under the boot so as to greatly reduce the gap between the boot and the console. No pic of that I'm afraid.
10 years?! That's just great. Thanks for the tips. I'll probably be doing something very similar.
 
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10 years?! That's just great. Thanks for the tips. I'll probably be doing something very similar.
On the 72 with a round hole, the chances of it splitting are way less. Going back to mine, one reason for the thicker plate was to raise the boot on the shifter, thus reducing the strain on it.
 

Michael O’Harran

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On the 72 with a round hole, the chances of it splitting are way less. Going back to mine, one reason for the thicker plate was to raise the boot on the shifter, thus reducing the strain on it.
Well I have a rectangular shifter so it'll work I think. Ya I like it. Thanks
 
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I have an original 72 round hole boot in excellent shape if you need a round hole boot.
 
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Michael, I just re-read my post to you and realized I made a mistake. I said I added an extra 1/8" piece "UNDER" the boot. This should have been on TOP of the boot flange. I don't have a pic of that, but with my mini console, it goes around the lower bellows and the base if you can picture that. It's careful cutting and fitting for sure, but it did take away an ugly gap. This may have been achievable by using a 1/2" thick under piece instead of 3/8". If you need a pic, I'll take one and post it.
 

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I have an original 72 round hole boot in excellent shape if you need a round hole boot.
Hey kcmash, I may be interested in the 1972 boot for my Mach 1. PM some pictures and a price if you are thinking about letting it go.
 
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Does $125 sound fair?
Hey kcmash, I may be interested in the 1972 boot for my Mach 1. PM some pictures and a price if you are thinking about letting it go.
 

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