Megasquirt 2 v3 on 351c

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

What are you looking at, pal?!

  • Your face

    Votes: 2 20.0%
  • Nothing much

    Votes: 3 30.0%
  • Yo momma

    Votes: 5 50.0%
  • Hey, beat it chief!

    Votes: 3 30.0%

  • Total voters
    10
Well, I'm close.. damn close. I got my new battery, a charger, the diode (which I don't actually need), new plugs and wires (not installed yet) and tried starting it again today. It seems like I've been flooding the engine, my fuel pressure was set at 60 psi (should be 40-45ish). I pulled the injector fuses and cranked it, got a nice big backfire out of it lol, so hopefully the flood is cleared. I killed the battery with all the cranking I did today, hoping I didn't wash the rings; but didn't see any smoke. I'm not too excited to change the plugs or assemble the sausage sized universal spark plug wires, but its all in the name of American horsepower lmao.

 
Keep us posted, downwardspiral. Like you said, you're almost there. Hope to see a vid or pic of things running smoothly sometime soon!
Ask you you shall receive!! lol... Today is a good day! The battery died again, but its charging now and I will hopefully get some tuning done later on. :D:D:D:p

[video=youtube]



 
Making more progress, getting the car tuned day by day. The oil in the valve cover looks a little milky, hopefully it's just from the car sitting for so long. The car will start up at any temperature now, but still needs lots of tuning. I'll hopefully get it together and registered soon.

[video=youtube]


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Watch out for coolant in the oil like that. Change the oil right away and monitor it often. If you are diluting the oil with water or fuel you could have a mess on your hands.

Good luck with the tuning.
I changed the oil the other day, and plan on changing it again after I feel the car is tuned nicely. The oil in the pan was not milky, so I don't think I have anything to worry about. I just registered the car, so I can hopefully get some real tuning done today :D.

 
I drove the car a few times, it runs good.. but I think I am having heat soak issues with the IAT sensor. The car runs great, but when I shut it down and wait half an hour or so it does not restart. The IAT reads 85ºF while the ambient air temp is around 28º. The stock hood fits on the car, which is good news. I took a video of my second drive out, but my battery died on the camera before anything interesting happens. I'm getting closer and closer to driving this thing regularly (and putting a nice sized turbo on it).

[video=youtube]

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nice to see you got it running!

I have several 5.0 Mustangs, including a twin screw supercharged one, and an '84 SVO (turbocharged). I also have a '79 Bronco with a 400M (stroked Cleveland) that I converted to SEFI last year. I used stock EEC-IV components and have had very good luck with it. It also costs very little and is proven reliability. On the Bronco, I decided to ditch the distributor entirely and run Ford EDIS8, which is easily supported by the stock EEC-IV. I use Binary Editor and EEC Analyzer to tune all of my combos... Quarterhorse and TwEECer for hardware. I'm debating whether I want to convert the '71 to SEFI-EDIS8 or not... the carb'd setup really doesn't have anything wrong with it at all, aside from startup, warmup, and fuel economy.

 
Nice to see you got it running!

I have several 5.0 Mustangs, including a twin screw supercharged one, and an '84 SVO (turbocharged). I also have a '79 Bronco with a 400M (stroked Cleveland) that I converted to SEFI last year. I used stock EEC-IV components and have had very good luck with it. It also costs very little and is proven reliability. On the Bronco, I decided to ditch the distributor entirely and run Ford EDIS8, which is easily supported by the stock EEC-IV. I use Binary Editor and EEC Analyzer to tune all of my combos... Quarterhorse and TwEECer for hardware. I'm debating whether I want to convert the '71 to SEFI-EDIS8 or not... the carb'd setup really doesn't have anything wrong with it at all, aside from startup, warmup, and fuel economy.
Nice, I was going to go the EEC but I like that everything about MS is open source; meaning the people that make it tell the user how it works on levels that the user will not even understand (unless you're an electrical engineer). The EEC seems like a nice, relatively plug and play alternative. I wanted a learning experience, I am going to school for mechanical engineering and felt that I didn't learn enough in the electronics department through school. I like that is the cheapest way to get a full standalone, and is completely universal. The software is easy to use, and I thought it was awesome that you can just download it for free at any time. You can play with the programs before you even think about ordering an MS. My parents have also said that I am thick headed my whole life, but I'll have to learn that for myself lol.

I am still buttoning up the car, but have been driving it around a little bit. I have no wipers and dash lights, I need to make up a temporary exhaust until I get the turbo stuff together and the engine is leaking a little oil (I think just from the drain plug and pan gasket). I took some pictures the other day, and since I have no real news I'll just share these:

207468_10150217869156995_610141994_8666617_4901848_n.jpg


217012_10150217869296995_610141994_8666619_6400502_n.jpg


217527_10150217869431995_610141994_8666620_5346929_n.jpg


208552_10150217869621995_610141994_8666621_6713256_n.jpg


208454_10150217869806995_610141994_8666622_6670256_n.jpg


 
SETUP AND TUNING: I've been tuning the car more and more, and it just keeps getting better and better. I know alot of you guys are carb guys, so here's an easy way of thinking of tuning EFI. Its no harder than carb tuning, but people seem to get freaked out about it. In order to get the car started, the computer needs to be synched to the distributor (if you are controlling the timing) and the base fuel settings need to be set. With megasquirt, all you need to know is pretty much how many cylinders you have, how many injectors you have along with their flow rate and the displacement of the engine. This will create a base fuel map that should be able to start the engine with some convincing.

Setting Engine Displacement (don't worry about every single field, there's alot you don't need to mess with)

261859_10150284184461995_610141994_9322752_1245910_n.jpg


Setting Required fuel:

261307_10150284185311995_610141994_9322761_1372798_n.jpg


263694_10150284190156995_610141994_9322792_4285545_n.jpg


Setting up for low vs high impedance injectors (easy to find out what you have, usually just googling the part # will tell you everything about them). My current limiting numbers will be different than yours, this is just to show what the screens look like and give a general overview. I am using 24# low impedance injectors, which are easy to burn out with the wrong settings. High impedance injectors seem to be more straightforward.

264099_10150284190206995_610141994_9322793_6916392_n.jpg


The TPS is then calibrated, which consists of hitting "get current" with your foot off the gas to set closed throttle, then hitting get current with your foot to the floor.

264344_10150284185351995_610141994_9322763_6137000_n.jpg


Next, the ignition must be synced if you are using MS to control timing. Different distributors use different settings, but these settings are for my MSD 6A with MSD pro billet ready to run distributor (uses white wire on MSD box, points style signal). MS can run an MSD distributor that uses a VR signal (purple and green wires) but these settings will be different.

264839_10150284185236995_610141994_9322759_7528549_n.jpg


The trigger wizard is used to match the timing light reading to the computer's output. The big white number on this screen is what you want the timing to be, so the trigger offset is simply moved up or down until the white number and the number on your balancer's timing tape match.

264081_10150284185336995_610141994_9322762_3776282_n.jpg


Once the car starts, the warmup enrichment will need to be adjusted. This is like an adjustable choke especially when an Idle Air Control valve is used to control airflow. The warmup enrichment window is pretty much a linear X-Y graph with temperature as the X and enrichment percent as the Y. You can move points on the line up and down to add or reduce the fuel to engine. Afterstart enrichment is also tunable, which will dump a certain amount of fuel into the engine right after it starts, for a set amount of cycles (ex 350 cycles, usually 10-15 seconds after start).

Tuning warmup enrichment:

264351_10150284185441995_610141994_9322766_4720249_n.jpg


Once the engine starts reliably, the VE table can be tuned. I made the mistake of leaving EGO (exhaust gas oxygen; 02 sensor) correction on, which automatically tuned VE as I drove. The car kept going super lean and backfiring. Turn this OFF before tuning VE.

261913_10150284185181995_610141994_9322758_7254151_n.jpg


VE is Volumetric efficiency, or a ratio between the air in the head and the air in the combustion chamber; more or less a measure of airflow throughout the engine's powerband. The VE table has RPM as the X axis and Manifold pressure as the Y. VE would be the Z axis, as each X and Y coordinate has a corresponding VE value.

262031_10150284185391995_610141994_9322765_8124195_n.jpg


In other words, at 2000 rpm when the manifold pressure is 100 kPa (~14.6 psia or atmospheric pressure. Wide open throttle in a naturally aspirated car) the VE value would be 105 % [< made up number]. As the VE increases, there is more air available; so more fuel needs to enter the engine. If the car doesnt run right the VE can be increased (more fuel) or decreased (less). Backfiring means to lean, and bogging under throttle input with a gas smell is rich.

VE can be tuned in real time, so someone can drive the car while you change the numbers. Have the person drive at constant throttle positions and match the wideband reading to the AFR table. There is a little dot that floats around the map as you drive that tells you where the engine is. If you don't trust anyone with your car, or just prefer to do it yourself; you can record a datalog with Tunerstudio and play it back with Megalogviewer. With megalogviewer, you can load the VE table and tune the car as you watch a datalog play back..

262131_10150284185071995_610141994_9322755_4313334_n.jpg


[more to come soon]

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I've always wanted to do this to a Cleveland. Do you have baffles in the fuel tank because I've been told that with out them the you would starve the engine for fuel under hard turning and braking conditions. Also is there any internal work done to the engine?

Keep up the good work.

Jayson

 
I've always wanted to do this to a Cleveland. Do you have baffles in the fuel tank because I've been told that with out them the you would starve the engine for fuel under hard turning and braking conditions. Also is there any internal work done to the engine?

Keep up the good work.

Jayson
I do, but I keep at least a half tank of gas in the car because the pump sounds like it starts to cavitate around 1/4 tank. The engine is stock for now.. I will freshen up the internals and get forged pistons at the least. thanks :)

 
Another quick question. How do you have MS controlling the injectors? Are they controlled individually or controlled in batches?

 
Another quick question. How do you have MS controlling the injectors? Are they controlled individually or controlled in batches?
MS2 can only control 2 batches (2 injector outputs). I have 2 banks of 4 injectors in parrallel. MS3 can run fully sequential (individually), but requires more complicated input sensors. I've heard the only real world benefit of sequential is better emissions, and the ability to tune cylinders individually (requires each exhaust runner to have an o2 sensor bung in order to get individual feedback). I was skeptical about the batch fire system, but it works great!

Interesting thread. Sounds like you are making good progress.
Thanks! At the rate I am going, I may daily the car lol.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top