New from Cordova TN 72 Mach 1

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If the ID sticker is still on the drivers door jamb area you can at least get the color codes for paint and interior as well as the original driveline configuration. It may have been removed or painted over in a repaint. If you locate it post up your findinds and one of our many contributors will get you a decode.

 
I am in Memphis and it was bought at auction. I bought from the guy that picked it up at auction. He got it in a lot of cars and claims he made no money. That is what I would say too.

 
Mach 1 stripe kit arrived today, check. Can anyone tell me if my rear taillights should have black borders or plastichrome? May order the honeycomb piece as well, how does it attach?

 
I saw the car here in Nashville a few times, but only at a distance. I remember his craigslist ad vaugely and I think he wanted about 15K for the car.

IIRC the engine spec he listed at the time struck me as being fairly stout, but not insane


oh I forgot to add-the honeycomb panel has 12 studs that go through the tailight panel and it fastens with nuts.

 
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Jeff, it is hard to figure out what someone is trying to achieve. All I can do is look at the some of parts and assume. I will pull the rocker covers this weekend and see if I can find something fancy under there. He put the ford racing aluminum valve covers on and I hope to find roller rockers underneath. I think it has a loose rocker so I need to look anyway. I am sure the car will run beautifully when it is done.

 
I will consider myself lucky getting it for 8500. I found the door tag and it looks like this should be light pewter. Just so happens that was the color I wanted. It may become light pewter again some day. I also figured out my problem. My car was not getting any fuel. The fuel filter was hidden onder the power steering pump and I parked on my slanted drive and it would not get fuel. the new carb has it running much better but it still desperately needs something. Lots of loud but not a whole lot of go. I had an 87 GT that would do 160 and that is the seat pinning power I think I need. NEW! Order a Door Dataplate | Order a Marti Report | Link to these results

Question 1. Is the FMX an unusual choice for a trany. I thought c4 or c6 were the only options.

Warranty Number: 2F05Hxxxxxxx

Year:

2 1972

Plant:

F Dearborn, MI

Body Series:

05 SportsRoof, Mach 1

Engine:

H 351 2v V8

Miscellaneous Vehicle Data

Body:

63R SportsRoof, Mach 1

Color:

5A Light Pewter Metallic

Trim:

AA Black All Vinyl, Standard Interior

Date:

D.S.O:

23 Memphis

Axle:

2 2.75:1, Conventional

Trans:

X FMX Automatic

More Info coming soon...

MANUFACTURED BY

FORD MOTOR COMPANY

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS

TO ALL APPLICABLE U.S. FEDERAL

MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STAN-

DARDS IN EFFECT ON DATE OF

MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE

VEH IDENT NO BODY COL.

TRIM AXLE TRNS. DSO


 
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They have a Mustang meet at the motorsports park on Saturday.

 
Hi and ::welcome:: from Luxembourg, Europe.

Your car´s paint scheme has already been discussed on this page. I even had a pic of it on my phone about a year ago when I found it on the internet somewhere. I saved it because it was different.

 
Welcome from West Virginia! I remember that car for sale. The paint scheme looks better in your pics than I remember.

 
Trying to find info on my car now so I can figure out what to do next/ The Eleanor wheels and lowering will make it much more me. Looking forward to the seat rebuild as well because these feel 42 years old. The paint scheme is nice but the MATT finish is a fail in my book. I am not sure if I should repaint or clear over the black. It looks a bit washed out because of the hot summer sun. May paint the lowers with clear to see how it reacts before I ruin the pain and have to spend a lot more money. If I have to repaint it is going to color 5A as it was born. The PO pin striped the inside with bright lime as well, wife loves it but I am not necessarily a fan of the lime on the inside.

If anyone has a link to threads with this car from PO I would be glad to get them.

LUX, I bet you love filling that car in Luxembourg. Mine is not exactly fuel efficient.

 
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::welcome:: from Maine , gotta love the lime !:D

 
I just bought a fairly clean Bright Lime Green Mach 1 last week and I am sure I will spend a good bit of time here learning the nuances of the 72. I had 2 65 coupes and this is my first Fastback. The car looks great but does not currently run great. I will be asking a ton of questions on tuning. The PO looked to be building a beast but never got it right. It has full length headers, flowmaster exhaust with 3 3/4 inch pipes, ported manifold, MSD ignition, and who knows what else. Does not smoke but carb is suspect for sure. Looking forward to learning. I also have a Harley Sporty that has been with me since birth in 1993. I like my toys.
like the 3 3/4 inch exhaust pipes. Though too much into mine, eventually want 3 inches from my 3 inch Hooker Headers long tubes completely through w/the x-pipe even 3 inch diameter. As you can see on my March slot of next year COTM have done a lot of the restomod ie from q to r code- fully optioned to ....

 
I received my tires today and once again I should have paid closer attention. I thought I had 18's for the rear because that is what was on the box but I have 17x7 front and 17x9 rears. I had an extra pair of 225x45x17's in the garage so I have 245's in the back and 225's in the front. In hindsight I would have bought 50's and 255 rear and 245 front. I will get used to the new look and when it is lowered back where it belongs I image it will be closer to perfect. Tomorrow I pull the seats and get going on that. I found a shop to tune it and make it run right, it is a lot better but the rpm drops more than it should when I go into gear and it is leaving a good bit of power on the table. I plan to fix that and the owner of a local shop does a lot of drag race cars so he knows carbs and msd, should be the perfect guy and he comes recommended from Dynospeed which means something around here. Dynospeed told me he could convert my car to modern engine for 13,000 to 25K and I laughed and kept on walking. He also said something about making it a daily driver, it will be that for a whole lot less.

Dumb question, rear lowering is just removing these dumb shackles and going to standard. Can I cut the new spings that are on it or should I buy lowering springs. Are lowering springs heavier spring rates.

mustang wheels.jpg

mustang wheels2.jpg

 
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Wheels look good. Thanx for the heads up on the show out at the motorsport park. Now that I have finished alot of the projects that were set aside to get the cars ready for Charlotte I am going to pick up a wrench again.

A couple of thoughts on the lowering questions. I always try and stay away from cutting suspension pieces. Just my personal preference learned many years ago living in the midwest and how some of the elements up there affect suspension components. I would buy the correct length shackles you need to get the ride height you want. Shackle kits are pretty affordable and contribute to a better ride. Mustangs Plus is a good vendor for suspension components. http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/home.php

I would also shy away from cutting the coil springs like some old school customizers do. Again personnel preference. I would explore what springs are needed to get the lower ride height you are looking for. I have a friend who recently went through about 3 sets of coils to get the right height on his 70. If you need more info where he bought his springs or any tools to help out let me know, we are close enough.

 
New project started today. I tore down the passenger seat to get ready for a new cover. While I was pulling it out I realized I need to order the rear pieces as well. They have some well hidden repairs that I am not all that cool with. Guess I might as well do the carpet too. It is not perfect and I will put some dynamat in while it is out. I will have to clean up all the rust before I can put the covers and new foam on. The modern foam feels a whole lot denser and I am going to like it. It will be fun trying to figure out where all the hardware goes in.

seat.jpg

1401841799998.jpg

 
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