Oil.... again

[Vinnie]

Hey folks,

I've been reading up on what type of oil I should put in my 351C when I'm going to change it. There are so many threads all over the net that I've tried to sum up what I've found.

Now my engine is old and I can only assume that it's never been rebuild or even cleaned. A lot of threads mention oil for breaking in an engine but obviously that's not my case. Other thread mention a high zinc content and that this engine requires mineral oil instead of synthetic. And also the viscosity should be 10w40 or 15w40, no more unless I go racing (coz Xw50 remains too thick?), which I do not.

So should I be looking for mineral 10w40 with high zinc?

Options:

- http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/vr1-racing-oil

- http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/durablend-synthetic-blend-motor-oil

- Shell Rotella T

- AMSOIL seems to have something?

I haven't found any oils available in Europe...

Oh and last but not least: a 351C takes about 5,5 quarts? (whatever that is in metric...)

Any advice would be much appreciated!

Thanks,

Vincent.

 

[73pony]

I use Valvoline VR-1 10w30 NOT SYNTHETIC. I have to order it off amazon as the local places only carry the synthetic.

 

[turtle5353]

I run the Rotella T 10/40

 

[eddyw]

I use Lucas oil:

http://lucasoil.com/hotrods-classic-cars

Dealer in the Netherlands (In Nederland verkrijgbaar bij)

http://www.ajspeedshop.nl/c-1975518/lucas-olie-olie-producten/

 

[clevelandcoupe]

I now run Valvoline VR-1 10w30 in both cars. Previously I used Rotella and had an issue with a cam & lifters. I am unable to actually know if the Rotella was the issue, but the additional zinc additives surely cannot hurt either. My motor rebuilder only now suggests VR-1.

Thanks, Jay

 

[Bentworker]

Why run Rotella? Isn't that diesel oil?

 

[jeremycfr]

When I was breaking in my engine, they put in a diesel oil. I changed to Lucas at the first oil change.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[turtle5353]

Why run Rotella? Isn't that diesel oil?

Yes it is diesel oil. But it has all the good stuff our old engines need. And that's what my engine builder told me to run so that's what I run.

 

[Bentworker]

Why run Rotella? Isn't that diesel oil?

Yes it is diesel oil. But it has all the good stuff our old engines need. And that's what my engine builder told me to run so that's what I run.

Interesting, to me running diesel oil to get ZDDP is like taking NyQuill to get Tylenol.  Once I get to the point of having a running car again I am probably going to run conventional 10-40 oil of some sort with a ZDDP additive on top.  It really is a pain to have to work around all the oil requirements for a modern emission controlled engine to come up with an oil that is flat tappet friendly.

 

[Vinnie]

I use Lucas oil:

http://lucasoil.com/hotrods-classic-cars

Dealer in the Netherlands (In Nederland verkrijgbaar bij)

http://www.ajspeedshop.nl/c-1975518/lucas-olie-olie-producten/

Thanks for all your input guys!

I think I'll order me some of this: http://www.ajspeedshop.nl/a-40945891/lucas-hotrod-classic-oil/lucas-10w40-5-liter-verpakking/

Now recently I checked my compression and it was low to avarage. Should I stick with 10W40 or get 20W50?

 

[JD79]

My car has 10W30 I noticed on the maintenance bill from the previous owner. I have to look into this more as well. Same with the additive for the fuel..... Do you add a lead substitute to the fuel?

 

[Vinnie]

My car has 10W30 I noticed on the maintenance bill from the previous owner. I have to look into this more as well. Same with the additive for the fuel..... Do you add a lead substitute to the fuel?

I fill up with BP  Ultimate 98. Not cheap but the best choice overhere I believe because it has the least crap in it.

 

[piper62j]

I run detergent Dino - short for the dinosaur (mineral) oil in my old 1973 engine.. that's what it came with from the factory.. From what I understand, you can switch to Synthetic, but cannot go back to mineral oil.  Someone may chime in to correct me on that if needed.. The new Synthetic oils should not affect seals etc.. Don't add synthetic to dino, perform a complete oil and filter change.. 

On the fuel, my 73 runs best on non-ethanol, lead free.  It's a little more expensive than regular pump gas, but much cheaper than the high test ethanol..  It may not be available where you live.. 

Please keep us updated on your progress..

 

[Don C]

You are correct about not going back to mineral oil. Synthetic oils tend to expand the seals, going back will likely result in leaks.

 

[turtle5353]

Why run Rotella? Isn't that diesel oil?

Yes it is diesel oil. But it has all the good stuff our old engines need. And that's what my engine builder told me to run so that's what I run.

Interesting, to me running diesel oil to get ZDDP is like taking NyQuill to get Tylenol.  Once I get to the point of having a running car again I am probably going to run conventional 10-40 oil of some sort with a ZDDP additive on top.  It really is a pain to have to work around all the oil requirements for a modern emission controlled engine to come up with an oil that is flat tappet friendly.

Why run conventional and add ZDDP?? When its already in the rotella. Good oil at a good price.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Since I rebuilt from seized and have 'roller everything' in mine, I run Castrol Syntec 10w30.  I think it's also getting close to Baby's First Oil Change as well.

 

[Vinnie]

You are correct about not going back to mineral oil. Synthetic oils tend to expand the seals, going back will likely result in leaks.

Well that's a bit crap coz I have no idea about the oil that's in there now except that it's black and smell a bit of fuel and it's been in there for at least 4 years (I haven't driven much). So I want to change oil this spring...

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I do not know if it so much the lubricant but how you treat your vehicle overall.

I myself am approaching 1,500,000 total miles of driving in my life and was not a truck drive. All private vehicles. I had jobs a couple times I drove over 600 miles a week and made many cross country trips in the U.S.. Back in the 60's I used Gulf oil. When I got my Maverick in 71 and Mustang in 73 Ford was using Havoline oil if I remember right 10-W 30. My current Ford truck has 272,000 miles and I have never taken the radiator cap off. Never changed a hose only changed the serpentine belt and spark plugs but they still looked new. On this truck I use the recommended 5W20 that helps with gas mileage and is the Ford oil not full synthetic. I do not change oil on intervals. I run until a quart low then add a quart then when it gets a quart low again I change the oil. Could be 15,000 miles.

I have had two Ford vans one a 240 six and the other a 351HO 4-V. The 240 went 467,000 , miles and I had a crash. The other 275,000 and I just quit driving it nothing wrong. I built my own engines and put no racing parts in the rebuild. Most racing parts are not made for long miles.

The only time I had anything related to oil as a failure. I rebuilt the 240 six and decided to give the new Mobile 1 synthetic a try. I broke the engine in with regular oil and then changed to the Mobile 1. I drove the van on one of my cross country runs and at about 5,000 miles in valves started sounding off. So I pulled the valve cover and had to readjust them and they were hydraulic. New cam, bearings, lifters,rockers and push rods TRW back then. When I got home I pulled the engine down and everything in the valve train was shot. The push rods did not have balls on the ends nearly pointed, the rocker balls were gaulded. I pulled the entire engine and rebuilt again with the same components but used regular Havoline 10 W 30 and not an issue again.

I have a friend that purchased a new Ford Ranger pickup and he never changed the oil only added. He would change the filter now and then. He drove it over 165,000 miles then sold it and ended up buying it back.

So with all the cars and all the miles I have driven over the last 53 years I had that only one failure and it was with a full synthetic.

I believe if you do not overheat the engine, run it low on oil, over rev it and do reasonable maintenance you can have success with about any oil. I would shy away from full synthetic since the rings, bearing clearances and seals were not designed for it to be used.

I sent a sample of the oil out of my Mach 1 that has sat with same oil in it for 34 years for testing and it was still good. No excess moisture just a high lead content due to the car use to run on leaded gas back then.

Failures in an engine are usually caused by a component failure. Valve breaking, Jumping timing, piston ring breaking, over heating and warping the heads. Revving the engine to high floating valves and causing bearing damage.

I believe when most of the two piece valves broke it was because they were floated and bumped the piston and then rocked back and forth until they snapped.

Just my experience.

 

[droptop73]

Here's what I know for sure...

API rated SL oils can have up to 1200 ppm of zinc. SM rated oils must have less than 750 ppm of zinc (EPA rules). It's generally accepted that 1000 ppm is minimum for protecting a flat tappet camshaft/lifter. There are several brands of oil out there designed for air cooled small engines with an SL rating. Best bet is to watch the API rating and make your decisions from there. If it is SL, there's no need for zinc additive. If it's SM or higher, add a good quality zinc additive.

On a fresh flat tappet rebuild I would recommend a good quality break in oil, not additive. I have used Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs with great results.

Personally I use Kawasaki Engines branded 10w40 in my 73... jus' sayin'