Power steering Pulley

[73Mach1VA]

I put on a new power steering pump using the factory bracket and picked up a Scott Drake Pulley for it. The pulley doesn’t line up. Needs to go on about another inch to line with water pump and main. Any body else have this issue?

 

[MooseStang]

I hate to even ask, but how are you going to remove that pulley?

 

[Stanglover]

Compare the SD pulley with your original. It does not look as deep as the original. Also check the OD.
I just rebuilt a couple of pumps and for the life of me, i can't find the picture I want. The back edge of the pulley ought to be quite close to the bracket, maybe 3/8 -1/2". I can get a better picture later if that helps. In the mean time, this is not the best angle, but I think you can see the difference.

 

[Stanglover]

I hate to even ask, but how are you going to remove that pulley?

With a pulley puller/installer like you see in my pic. This was from Harbor Freight and cost about 20 bucks. I've done 5 pulleys with it and no signs of it falling apart yet.

 

[MooseStang]

Ok, but isn't the pulley on backwards? I don't see the lip.

 

[Stanglover]

This is what it should look like with a standard pulley for non A/C. This pulley is 6 1/4" diam. Front to back is 1 11/16" pic 2264.

 

[Stanglover]

I hate to even ask, but how are you going to remove that pulley?

Ah, now I see what you mean, there is no groove to use the proper pulley puller. He'll have to use a regular type puller If it will fit the gap between the pulley and bracket. The 1/2 gap on a stock pulley is too small for a reg puller.
I say junk that Scott Drake pos. If he wants a custom pulley I'm sure there are better ones on the market.

 

[MooseStang]

Yeah the pulley on my L code was put on backwards. I'm going to have to use a press and some plates to remove it and try not to destroy the two. (On the right)

 

[73Mach1VA]

Yep, this Scott Drake is a pos. No groove either side. No way it will work. Original was damaged. I can get a standard pulled on it.

 

[Stanglover]

Yep, this Scott Drake is a pos. No groove either side. No way it will work. Original was damaged. I can get a standard pulled on it.

A saw will work !!

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Yep, this Scott Drake is a pos. No groove either side. No way it will work. Original was damaged. I can get a standard pulled on it.

FYI 73Mach: Just measured my March Alumnium PS pulley. The fitment dimensions matches with Stanglover's factory pulley pretty much exactly.

 

[Stanglover]

If I can offer a tip, when installing the pulley, make absolutely sure it starts square. On one of the ones I did, I found I needed to increase the lead angle on the shaft. I did that with a die grinder and 2" sanding pad, but a file might work. This is a very tight press fit so removing and replacing too many times may cause slippage. If the pulley is a tiny bit loose, Loc-Tite make sleeve retainer, but that really is a band aid fix. The word is take your time.

 

[73Mach1VA]

FYI 73Mach: Just measured my March Alumnium PS pulley. The fitment dimensions matches with Stanglover's factory pulley pretty much exactly.

Is this the pulley you have?

https://marchperformance.com/ford-corporate-power-steering-single-groove-v-belt-pulley-502-c.html

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Is this the pulley you have?

https://marchperformance.com/ford-corporate-power-steering-single-groove-v-belt-pulley-502-c.html

My original invoice states March #502 and has the "collar" for the removal tool to grasp. Looks like March now does away with the collar and uses three tapped holes for the removal tool.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

73Mach1VA
This is the pulley I run:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Powdercoat-Aluminum-Steering-Pulley/dp/B003TQ872U

 

[Stanglover]

A word of advice if I may The diameters, therefore ratio that the pump turns at, is important. You do not want a pulley that is too small on the pump, nor do you want pulleys that are too big. You want to aim for pulleys (all three) that match the original sizes used on your vehicle. AC cars will be slightly different to non AC cars from what I've seen.
Do your research and don't just buy something you think will look good. Ford worked out the best ratios for optimal steering response for a reason. It all needs to work together.

 

[Stanglover]

My original invoice states March #502 and has the "collar" for the removal tool to grasp. Looks like March now does away with the collar and uses three tapped holes for the removal tool.

So, I get the removal with three screw holes, but how do they intend to draw the pulley onto the shaft? You can't press it on, it has to be in effect, pulled on. If you try to press it on, you will without doubt screw up the pump internals. Perhaps there is a specialty tool needed similar in practice to the one I show.

 

[MooseStang]

When I bought my Lars pump, it came with a bolt, washer and nut. Press on. Having said that, I instead used a installer/removal tool from Orielley, but in effect did the same press on function.

 

[Stanglover]

When I bought my Lars pump, it came with a bolt, washer and nut. Press on. Having said that, I instead used a installer/removal tool from Orielley, but in effect did the same press on function.

Interesting. It would do at a pinch, but the kit has a bearing and thrust washer for the reason that there is a lot of pressure needed to install the pulley. If it goes on too easy, it will spin on the shaft at some point. The kits are not expensive and well worth the investment.

 

[Bobby]

Ok, but isn't the pulley on backwards? I don't see the lip.

Its on correct but it doesnt have the groove to remove. The only thing I can think that it can be remove short of destroying it, heat it up until it slides off. Then it may warp. Its cheap and its just for looks too. I bought one to use but opted to use my old pulley and I have no regrets.