quarter skin replacement advise

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no long beads actually, as that will warp the panel. the entire thing is tacks..... time consuming for sure. and each one is cooled with a wet rag immediately. the locations for everything is really obviois

 
thanks!!! it's been alot of work lol. especially for a guy's that knows (well used to) nothing about body work.



 
thanks alot man. I really like the new fuel Injection system in this engine. has amazing power and response.



 
Its great to have threads like this and turtle's for information on doing the quarters. I will be in this same situation soon (still buying all the tools I need) and I will surely refer back to these threads.

Tell me...how did you fill in the self tapping screw holes and also do you have more detailed pics of the cuts and welds you did inside the door jambs?

 
yes, I took lots of pictures. I will upload all of them

 
I think it is great that you are jumping in and doing it yourself.

One thing I hope you did is remove all the black e-coat that comes on the repo panels. It looked like Kevin did which I recommend to everyone.

The reason is. My friend that has been doing ground up restorations since the 80's was showing me at his shop the other day. He had a guy bring his great looking car in for him to look at the paint. It had been restored by another shop about 5 years ago. There were quite a few little bumps in the paint that was once perfect. They took a razor blade and cut the paint and it just peeled off and was rusty under it.

When the repo panels are stamped sometimes they sit around and start to get surface rust on them. Then they go to e-coat and evidently their phosphate process is not very good.

My friend showed me on a hood he was working for a Camaro restore. The black e-coat was smooth and looked perfect. I stayed for a couple hours while he sanded it off with a DA and I think 80 grit paper and there were several places that had rust under the e-coat just like he said it would be. He has always sanded the e-coat off and cleaned the rust off then phosphate then epoxy primer and then polyester on all his restorations and has never had a paint job fail or return except for accident damage.

If you want the paint to last do remove the black e-coat that Taiwan puts on.

Also if you have the panels soda blasted the cleaning process for that is very intense to say the least. If you do not do it right it causes severe issues with the paint. The plastic media blast is a better solution but will not remove rust. Never sand blast exterior panels unless you want a wavy body that is trash.

Glad to see you are learning new skills and hey you got the wife in there also.

Great,

David

 
thats great advice. I actually ended up applying stripper the the entire thing on one side jist to look for that. I didn't find rust on the panels, but I did on the hood underneath previous paint

 
It looks like I will be doing the same thing. When I got my Q 72 vert into work area and got all the stuff out of the trunk I discovered that the PO had done a lap joint on the LH quarter so off it comes. I am also concerned about the RH and will sand all the primer off to inspect his work closer. The floors are coming back out also. I cannot believe anyone can do such crappy work and cover it up with bondo and seam sealer.

David

 
she is not complete yet, as i said... im no body guy. it is just in epoxy primer until i can have a real body shop perfect it and paint it.

 
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