Radiator Support, Aprons

[Darren 72]

Hey,

I messed up again. Rip and read. I should have read some of the tear downs before I started mine. I bought new aprons and radiator supports. I should have measured to the shock tower bolt holding the shock off of the back edge of the radiator support. Now I'm not sure where they are suppose to line up. I bought aprons not realizing that they are not exact. Does anyone have these measurement? Shouldn't they be standard? (72 Mustang) Should I use a square to make sure the aprons and radiator support are square?

I was thinking of using a few metal screws to dry fit everything in and make sure the hood fits and fenders. Did anyone else take this approach. I'm nervous about pulling in the radiator support too much. I think I may have the same issue as shown on Saturday Morning Garage video (which I think is great by the way). Some of the aprons may be too short. The old ones are all rotted and don't have much use as a measuring device. I'm afraid when I put the hood back on the twist locks wont line up.

Don't be afraid to start something you don't understand...you can always jump off a bridge later.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Hey,

I messed up again. Rip and read. I should have read some of the tear downs before I started mine. I bought new aprons and radiator supports. I should have measured to the shock tower bolt holding the shock off of the back edge of the radiator support. Now I'm not sure where they are suppose to line up. I bought aprons not realizing that they are not exact. Does anyone have these measurement? Shouldn't they be standard? (72 Mustang) Should I use a square to make sure the aprons and radiator support are square?

I was thinking of using a few metal screws to dry fit everything in and make sure the hood fits and fenders. Did anyone else take this approach. I'm nervous about pulling in the radiator support too much. I think I may have the same issue as shown on Saturday Morning Garage video (which I think is great by the way). Some of the aprons may be too short. The old ones are all rotted and don't have much use as a measuring device. I'm afraid when I put the hood back on the twist locks wont line up.

Don't be afraid to start something you don't understand...you can always jump off a bridge later.

Darren the best way to fit the rad support..frt aprons..is with the fenders on the car ..If you notice i didn't install the rad support frt aprons on my car yet..for that reason..(I can't get the fenders on till the car is off the dolly) You will need the bottom rad support brkts.. the lowers locate the distance of the rad support from the frt crossmember..Once you have that, you can rough in the rad support with the fenders & hood on..Then x measure for square from each shock tower (use one of the 3 bolts) to the fender bolt hole on top of the rad support.

As far as the rear aprons you need to install the hinge to the cowl extension & the rear apron... see what you get ,that pretty much sets where the apron has to go...If your drivers side is like mine was & short to the firewall then you have to do what I did & you will need 2 aprons to make it happen nicely..My passenger side fit pretty good just a little trimming on the back bottom corner to get to sit flush to the frame rail & the top where cowl lip comes through to get it far enough back to sit flush to the firewall You are correct mock everything up with a few sheet metal screws ...then fit the fenders & hood. Just so you know & don't go crazy when you line up the fenders..I have the factory assy manual..Shims are used at the lower 2 attaching points to the rocker as are they used at the top mounting points under the fender..Do yourself a favor, & get some 1/16" shims & some 1/8" shims...Trust me on that..

Scott

 

[don29163]

Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.

I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.

Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.

I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.

I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

 

[Tnfastbk]

Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.

I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.

Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.

I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.

I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Snap me a picture of what measurements you need and I will take them tomorrow. Cant promise they are correct but they have not been replaced on mine.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.

I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.

Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.

I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.

I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Don, I guess you didn't see my reply to your post

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-what-did-you-do-to-your-car-today?pid=13604#pid13604

Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.

I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.

Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.

I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.

I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Snap me a picture of what measurements you need and I will take them tomorrow. Cant promise they are correct but they have not been replaced on mine.

Tn That will help too ! he needs from any of the shock tower bolts diagnal to the first fender bolt on the rad support...How's the e-brake & clutch going ?

 

[don29163]

Nope, I missed the post.

Still learning my way around this forum.

Thank you

 

[Tnfastbk]

Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.

I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.

Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.

I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.

I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Don, I guess you didn't see my reply to your post

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-what-did-you-do-to-your-car-today?pid=13604#pid13604

Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.

I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.

Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.

I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.

I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Snap me a picture of what measurements you need and I will take them tomorrow. Cant promise they are correct but they have not been replaced on mine.

Tn That will help too ! he needs from any of the shock tower bolts diagnal to the first fender bolt on the rad support...How's the e-brake & clutch going ?

Not sure, slow to stopped. With the flash floods we had on Monday, things picked up around the garage from cars being flooded to include my uncles Dakota. But hopefully will see some progress over the weekend. Clutch is about the same, each time I ask, almost ready to test fit, same answer for two weeks now.

 

[Darren 72]

Hey,

I messed up again. Rip and read. I should have read some of the tear downs before I started mine. I bought new aprons and radiator supports. I should have measured to the shock tower bolt holding the shock off of the back edge of the radiator support. Now I'm not sure where they are suppose to line up. I bought aprons not realizing that they are not exact. Does anyone have these measurement? Shouldn't they be standard? (72 Mustang) Should I use a square to make sure the aprons and radiator support are square?

I was thinking of using a few metal screws to dry fit everything in and make sure the hood fits and fenders. Did anyone else take this approach. I'm nervous about pulling in the radiator support too much. I think I may have the same issue as shown on Saturday Morning Garage video (which I think is great by the way). Some of the aprons may be too short. The old ones are all rotted and don't have much use as a measuring device. I'm afraid when I put the hood back on the twist locks wont line up.

Don't be afraid to start something you don't understand...you can always jump off a bridge later.

Darren the best way to fit the rad support..frt aprons..is with the fenders on the car ..If you notice i didn't install the rad support frt aprons on my car yet..for that reason..(I can't get the fenders on till the car is off the dolly) You will need the bottom rad support brkts.. the lowers locate the distance of the rad support from the frt crossmember..Once you have that, you can rough in the rad support with the fenders & hood on..Then x measure for square from each shock tower (use one of the 3 bolts) to the fender bolt hole on top of the rad support.

As far as the rear aprons you need to install the hinge to the cowl extension & the rear apron... see what you get ,that pretty much sets where the apron has to go...If your drivers side is like mine was & short to the firewall then you have to do what I did & you will need 2 aprons to make it happen nicely..My passenger side fit pretty good just a little trimming on the back bottom corner to get to sit flush to the frame rail & the top where cowl lip comes through to get it far enough back to sit flush to the firewall You are correct mock everything up with a few sheet metal screws ...then fit the fenders & hood. Just so you know & don't go crazy when you line up the fenders..I have the factory assy manual..Shims are used at the lower 2 attaching points to the rocker as are they used at the top mounting points under the fender..Do yourself a favor, & get some 1/16" shims & some 1/8" shims...Trust me on that..

Scott

Thanks Scott once again. I feel like I can pull this off with this info.

Ordering Rust Bullett and Blackshell in the near future. Are you going to put Rust Bullet on your new aprons and Rad support? If so are you going to sand blast the cheesy black paint that's on there when it's shipped on the new panels?. I can't remember what was on your video.

I noticed that Rust Bullet doesn't work as designed if you put it over paint. It's only as strong as the paint and can't adhere to the metal. I am going to put the Blackshell over the two coats of the Bullet inside the cowl and the front chassis. I was planning to use epoxy primer over the Bullet on the aprons and the top of the cowl and then paint maybe semi gloss. If the Blackshell looks good I may just do the whole thing with it after I put two coats of the silver grey Bullett on.

I agree with your philosophy about less money. The POR-15 has too many procedures and drawbacks.

Just looked in my Body Assembly Manual. I see what your talking about with the shims.

Thanks,

Darren

Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.

I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.

Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.

I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.

I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Hey Don,

Thanks for the reply. I just bought lower rad supports from Mustang Unlimited in CT. They are on line and have a decent catalog. 71-73 Models 1A193 at $32.95. I don't think they have the rubber insulators. I have had pretty good luck with them. They just let me return a kickdown cable that I purchased in Aug. So far so good.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Hey,

I messed up again. Rip and read. I should have read some of the tear downs before I started mine. I bought new aprons and radiator supports. I should have measured to the shock tower bolt holding the shock off of the back edge of the radiator support. Now I'm not sure where they are suppose to line up. I bought aprons not realizing that they are not exact. Does anyone have these measurement? Shouldn't they be standard? (72 Mustang) Should I use a square to make sure the aprons and radiator support are square?

I was thinking of using a few metal screws to dry fit everything in and make sure the hood fits and fenders. Did anyone else take this approach. I'm nervous about pulling in the radiator support too much. I think I may have the same issue as shown on Saturday Morning Garage video (which I think is great by the way). Some of the aprons may be too short. The old ones are all rotted and don't have much use as a measuring device. I'm afraid when I put the hood back on the twist locks wont line up.

Don't be afraid to start something you don't understand...you can always jump off a bridge later.

Darren the best way to fit the rad support..frt aprons..is with the fenders on the car ..If you notice i didn't install the rad support frt aprons on my car yet..for that reason..(I can't get the fenders on till the car is off the dolly) You will need the bottom rad support brkts.. the lowers locate the distance of the rad support from the frt crossmember..Once you have that, you can rough in the rad support with the fenders & hood on..Then x measure for square from each shock tower (use one of the 3 bolts) to the fender bolt hole on top of the rad support.

As far as the rear aprons you need to install the hinge to the cowl extension & the rear apron... see what you get ,that pretty much sets where the apron has to go...If your drivers side is like mine was & short to the firewall then you have to do what I did & you will need 2 aprons to make it happen nicely..My passenger side fit pretty good just a little trimming on the back bottom corner to get to sit flush to the frame rail & the top where cowl lip comes through to get it far enough back to sit flush to the firewall You are correct mock everything up with a few sheet metal screws ...then fit the fenders & hood. Just so you know & don't go crazy when you line up the fenders..I have the factory assy manual..Shims are used at the lower 2 attaching points to the rocker as are they used at the top mounting points under the fender..Do yourself a favor, & get some 1/16" shims & some 1/8" shims...Trust me on that..

Scott

Thanks Scott once again. I feel like I can pull this off with this info.

Ordering Rust Bullett and Blackshell in the near future. Are you going to put Rust Bullet on your new aprons and Rad support? If so are you going to sand blast the cheesy black paint that's on there when it's shipped on the new panels?. I can't remember what was on your video.

I noticed that Rust Bullet doesn't work as designed if you put it over paint. It's only as strong as the paint and can't adhere to the metal. I am going to put the Blackshell over the two coats of the Bullet inside the cowl and the front chassis. I was planning to use epoxy primer over the Bullet on the aprons and the top of the cowl and then paint maybe semi gloss. If the Blackshell looks good I may just do the whole thing with it after I put two coats of the silver grey Bullett on.

I agree with your philosophy about less money. The POR-15 has too many procedures and drawbacks.

Thanks,

Darren

Darren..DO NOT REMOVE THE CHESSY BLACK PAINT ON NEW PARTS !!! That is e-coating..It's a rust preventive treatment / semi type primer...All you need to do is scracth it up with a red scotch brite pad..You can do the whole enginge compartment in rust bullet /blackshell..I did my engine bay in epoxy primer (check the vid http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-friday-s-with-q-prime-time-videohttp://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-friday-s-with-q-prime-time-video ) Because I'm not sure if I'm painting the engine bay the body color or blackshell.. I'm smoothing out welds etc in the engine bay so I prefer my plastic work to be done with the epoxy as a base...once thats done I can decide & then prep accordingly All inside the frame rails/ rockers is done with rust bullet...The underside of the car is gonna be 100% rust bullet/blackshell...You should do a "test panel" first before you commit to the black shell as your top/finish coat in the engine bay..There's plenty of other parts it can be used on..I just did the rear end using blackshell. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rear-axle-smoothing-paint

 

[Darren 72]

Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.

I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.

Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.

I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.

I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Snap me a picture of what measurements you need and I will take them tomorrow. Cant promise they are correct but they have not been replaced on mine.

Scott gave me some good advice. I will take a pic and show you. If you don't mind it would be interesting to see how close I come to the original measurements. Don't go out of your way. It appears it's not an exact science.

Darren the best way to fit the rad support..frt aprons..is with the fenders on the car ..If you notice i didn't install the rad support frt aprons on my car yet..for that reason..(I can't get the fenders on till the car is off the dolly) You will need the bottom rad support brkts.. the lowers locate the distance of the rad support from the frt crossmember..Once you have that, you can rough in the rad support with the fenders & hood on..Then x measure for square from each shock tower (use one of the 3 bolts) to the fender bolt hole on top of the rad support.

As far as the rear aprons you need to install the hinge to the cowl extension & the rear apron... see what you get ,that pretty much sets where the apron has to go...If your drivers side is like mine was & short to the firewall then you have to do what I did & you will need 2 aprons to make it happen nicely..My passenger side fit pretty good just a little trimming on the back bottom corner to get to sit flush to the frame rail & the top where cowl lip comes through to get it far enough back to sit flush to the firewall You are correct mock everything up with a few sheet metal screws ...then fit the fenders & hood. Just so you know & don't go crazy when you line up the fenders..I have the factory assy manual..Shims are used at the lower 2 attaching points to the rocker as are they used at the top mounting points under the fender..Do yourself a favor, & get some 1/16" shims & some 1/8" shims...Trust me on that..

Scott

Thanks Scott once again. I feel like I can pull this off with this info.

Ordering Rust Bullett and Blackshell in the near future. Are you going to put Rust Bullet on your new aprons and Rad support? If so are you going to sand blast the cheesy black paint that's on there when it's shipped on the new panels?. I can't remember what was on your video.

I noticed that Rust Bullet doesn't work as designed if you put it over paint. It's only as strong as the paint and can't adhere to the metal. I am going to put the Blackshell over the two coats of the Bullet inside the cowl and the front chassis. I was planning to use epoxy primer over the Bullet on the aprons and the top of the cowl and then paint maybe semi gloss. If the Blackshell looks good I may just do the whole thing with it after I put two coats of the silver grey Bullett on.

I agree with your philosophy about less money. The POR-15 has too many procedures and drawbacks.

Thanks,

Darren

Darren..DO NOT REMOVE THE CHESSY BLACK PAINT ON NEW PARTS !!! That is e-coating..It's a rust preventive treatment / semi type primer...All you need to do is scracth it up with a red scotch brite pad..You can do the whole enginge compartment in rust bullet /blackshell..I did my engine bay in epoxy primer (check the vid http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-friday-s-with-q-prime-time-videohttp://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-friday-s-with-q-prime-time-video ) Because I'm not sure if I'm painting the engine bay the body color or blackshell.. I'm smoothing out welds etc in the engine bay so I prefer my plastic work to be done with the epoxy as a base...once thats done I can decide & then prep accordingly All inside the frame rails/ rockers is done with rust bullet...The underside of the car is gonna be 100% rust bullet/blackshell...You should do a "test panel" first before you commit to the black shell as your top/finish coat in the engine bay..There's plenty of other parts it can be used on..I just did the rear end using blackshell. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rear-axle-smoothing-paint

Good stuff. That will be my plan. I will test the black shell inside the cowl. That will be a place that will be hidden unless someone takes the grills off and looks in.

I'm glad you told me about the paint on the aprons and rad support. I wasn't sure if it was just a quick spray to prevent rust during inventory holding and shipping.

I was going to pressure wash the front end but I think the way to go is just sand blast it and then start sealing it with RB.

I'll watch the vid again. Have a good weekend!

Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.

I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.

Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.

I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.

I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Snap me a picture of what measurements you need and I will take them tomorrow. Cant promise they are correct but they have not been replaced on mine.

Scott gave me some good advice. I will take a pic and show you. If you don't mind it would be interesting to see how close I come to the original measurements. Don't go out of your way. It appears it's not an exact science.

Thanks Scott once again. I feel like I can pull this off with this info.

Ordering Rust Bullett and Blackshell in the near future. Are you going to put Rust Bullet on your new aprons and Rad support? If so are you going to sand blast the cheesy black paint that's on there when it's shipped on the new panels?. I can't remember what was on your video.

I noticed that Rust Bullet doesn't work as designed if you put it over paint. It's only as strong as the paint and can't adhere to the metal. I am going to put the Blackshell over the two coats of the Bullet inside the cowl and the front chassis. I was planning to use epoxy primer over the Bullet on the aprons and the top of the cowl and then paint maybe semi gloss. If the Blackshell looks good I may just do the whole thing with it after I put two coats of the silver grey Bullett on.

I agree with your philosophy about less money. The POR-15 has too many procedures and drawbacks.

Thanks,

Darren

Darren..DO NOT REMOVE THE CHESSY BLACK PAINT ON NEW PARTS !!! That is e-coating..It's a rust preventive treatment / semi type primer...All you need to do is scracth it up with a red scotch brite pad..You can do the whole enginge compartment in rust bullet /blackshell..I did my engine bay in epoxy primer (check the vid http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-friday-s-with-q-prime-time-videohttp://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-friday-s-with-q-prime-time-video ) Because I'm not sure if I'm painting the engine bay the body color or blackshell.. I'm smoothing out welds etc in the engine bay so I prefer my plastic work to be done with the epoxy as a base...once thats done I can decide & then prep accordingly All inside the frame rails/ rockers is done with rust bullet...The underside of the car is gonna be 100% rust bullet/blackshell...You should do a "test panel" first before you commit to the black shell as your top/finish coat in the engine bay..There's plenty of other parts it can be used on..I just did the rear end using blackshell. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rear-axle-smoothing-paint

Good stuff. That will be my plan. I will test the black shell inside the cowl. That will be a place that will be hidden unless someone takes the grills off and looks in.

I'm glad you told me about the paint on the aprons and rad support. I wasn't sure if it was just a quick spray to prevent rust during inventory holding and shipping.

I was going to pressure wash the front end but I think the way to go is just sand blast it and then start sealing it with RB.

I'll watch the vid again. Have a good weekend!

Just watched all your posted vids again. When you repaired the hat on the cowl, it looks like you sealed with RB first and then used the Flex #12 over the RB. If so can you prime or use Blackshell right over the Flex?

 

[Qcode351mach]

Just watched all your posted vids again. When you repaired the hat on the cowl, it looks like you sealed with RB first and then used the Flex #12 over the RB. If so can you prime or use Blackshell right over the Flex?

That correct D...Just scratch up the bonding area as per the r/b instructions or you can apply rb metal blast in the bonding area...Yes you can prime or use black shell over the CURED flexo..Just scratch with a red pad first

 

[OMS]

Hey Don,

Thanks for the reply. I just bought lower rad supports from Mustang Unlimited in CT. They are on line and have a decent catalog. 71-73 Models 1A193 at $32.95. I don't think they have the rubber insulators. I have had pretty good luck with them. They just let me return a kickdown cable that I purchased in Aug. So far so good.

We have the brackets and insulators

Don

Item #D1ZZ-8124

71-73 RADIATOR MOUNT INSULATORS

Four piece set of radiator support bracket insulators. Price: $19.95

Item #D0OZ-8052

71-73 LOWER RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKETS, PAIR

Pair of lower radiator brackets. Price: $29.95

 

[OMS]

Hey Don,

Thanks for the reply. I just bought lower rad supports from Mustang Unlimited in CT. They are on line and have a decent catalog. 71-73 Models 1A193 at $32.95. I don't think they have the rubber insulators. I have had pretty good luck with them. They just let me return a kickdown cable that I purchased in Aug. So far so good.

We have the brackets and insulators

Don

Item #D1ZZ-8124

71-73 RADIATOR MOUNT INSULATORS

Four piece set of radiator support bracket insulators. Price: $19.95

Item #D0OZ-8052

71-73 LOWER RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKETS, PAIR

Pair of lower radiator brackets. Price: $29.95

Just sold out of the brackets, will have more in a few days

Thanks

Don

Item #D0OZ-8052 out of stock

71-73 LOWER RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKETS, PAIR

Pair of lower radiator brackets. Price: $29.95

 

[don29163]

Hey Don,

Thanks for the reply. I just bought lower rad supports from Mustang Unlimited in CT. They are on line and have a decent catalog. 71-73 Models 1A193 at $32.95. I don't think they have the rubber insulators. I have had pretty good luck with them. They just let me return a kickdown cable that I purchased in Aug. So far so good.

We have the brackets and insulators

Don

Item #D1ZZ-8124

71-73 RADIATOR MOUNT INSULATORS

Four piece set of radiator support bracket insulators. Price: $19.95

Item #D0OZ-8052

71-73 LOWER RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKETS, PAIR

Pair of lower radiator brackets. Price: $29.95

OK, called Ohio Mustang, out of stock, Mustang Unlimited had them and I will have them Monday. Thanks, Guys

 

[Darren 72]

Hey Don,

Thanks for the reply. I just bought lower rad supports from Mustang Unlimited in CT. They are on line and have a decent catalog. 71-73 Models 1A193 at $32.95. I don't think they have the rubber insulators. I have had pretty good luck with them. They just let me return a kickdown cable that I purchased in Aug. So far so good.

We have the brackets and insulators

Don

Item #D1ZZ-8124

71-73 RADIATOR MOUNT INSULATORS

Four piece set of radiator support bracket insulators. Price: $19.95

Item #D0OZ-8052

71-73 LOWER RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKETS, PAIR

Pair of lower radiator brackets. Price: $29.95

Just sold out of the brackets, will have more in a few days

Thanks

Don

Item #D0OZ-8052 out of stock

71-73 LOWER RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKETS, PAIR

Pair of lower radiator brackets. Price: $29.95

Hey Ohio Mustang,

I have a question. Why are sub par after market products continue to be sold. For example I was talking through the forum and with another person that had a problem with one of his aprons. Now I bought all new aprons and the driver side back apron doesn't fit. He said he bought another one and it didn't fit and had to piece the two together. This makes no sense. How can the manufacturers continue to make the wrong size. Don't they have the original specs? If they aren't the right size shouldn't they be making corrections? Now I may have to buy another one and cut it up to make one right piece. I have to pay double for one apron. I'm not criticizing vendors for selling these but don't understand the process. In most cases if it doesn't fit, the manufacturer gets it right but they continue to make the wrong size parts. I'm not trying to be a wise guy or criticize but I just don't get it? Any insight? Will your aprons fit?

Thanks for listening to my rant...lol

Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.

I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.

Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.

I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.

I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Snap me a picture of what measurements you need and I will take them tomorrow. Cant promise they are correct but they have not been replaced on mine.

Hey TN

I just realized I have nothing left to take a picture of. The rad support is off and all the aprons are off. I guess if you don't mind it would be a guide to know what the overhang measurement from the edge of the apron to the rad edge is. The rad support jets out past the apron a little. The other measurement would be from one or two of the shock tower bolts to the edge of the rad support. Only guides. I am going to put the aprons and rad support in temporarily and line things up before welding as suggested. Thanks for offering your help!



Just watched all your posted vids again. When you repaired the hat on the cowl, it looks like you sealed with RB first and then used the Flex #12 over the RB. If so can you prime or use Blackshell right over the Flex?

That correct D...Just scratch up the bonding area as per the r/b instructions or you can apply rb metal blast in the bonding area...Yes you can prime or use black shell over the CURED flexo..Just scratch with a red pad first

Thanks

 

[Qcode351mach]

Hey Ohio Mustang,

I have a question. Why are sub par after market products continue to be sold. For example I was talking through the forum and with another person that had a problem with one of his aprons. Now I bought all new aprons and the driver side back apron doesn't fit. He said he bought another one and it didn't fit and had to piece the two together. This makes no sense. How can the manufacturers continue to make the wrong size. Don't they have the original specs? If they aren't the right size shouldn't they be making corrections? Now I may have to buy another one and cut it up to make one right piece. I have to pay double for one apron. I'm not criticizing vendors for selling these but don't understand the process. In most cases if it doesn't fit, the manufacturer gets it right but they continue to make the wrong size parts. I'm not trying to be a wise guy or criticize but I just don't get it? Any insight? Will your aprons fit?

Thanks for listening to my rant...lol

D...The left sides not gonna fit... I bought my new 2nd set of aprons from OMS...There's 2 suppliers..dynacorn & a co in canada...I had both sets..same issue..it is what it is...I guess be happy that you can at least buy something you CAN make work..Imagine if there was nothing...then what ? that's a hard piece to reproduce from scratch...

Scott

 

[Darren 72]

Hey Ohio Mustang,

I have a question. Why are sub par after market products continue to be sold. For example I was talking through the forum and with another person that had a problem with one of his aprons. Now I bought all new aprons and the driver side back apron doesn't fit. He said he bought another one and it didn't fit and had to piece the two together. This makes no sense. How can the manufacturers continue to make the wrong size. Don't they have the original specs? If they aren't the right size shouldn't they be making corrections? Now I may have to buy another one and cut it up to make one right piece. I have to pay double for one apron. I'm not criticizing vendors for selling these but don't understand the process. In most cases if it doesn't fit, the manufacturer gets it right but they continue to make the wrong size parts. I'm not trying to be a wise guy or criticize but I just don't get it? Any insight? Will your aprons fit?

Thanks for listening to my rant...lol

D...The left sides not gonna fit... I bought my new 2nd set of aprons from OMS...There's 2 suppliers..dynacorn & a co in canada...I had both sets..same issue..it is what it is...I guess be happy that you can at least buy something you CAN make work..Imagine if there was nothing...then what ? that's a hard piece to reproduce from scratch...

Scott

Thanks Scott. Well said. I'm learning all about these issues as we move forward. I'm not a fabricator so I approach cautiously. Mistakes can be expensive. For the record I didn't buy the aprons from Ohio Mustang Supply. I do need to check them out and see what they have.

 

[Tnfastbk]

Darren, Sorry I have not forgot about your pics and measurements. Yesterday was a crappy day hunting parts and getting a whole lot of nothing done but I will try to go by today and do it.

 

[customtronic]

Great thread. I will be replacing the radiator support panel and the R side front apron soon as well.