Reproduction sheet metal

[markafss]

I probably need to replace both quarter panels and outer wheel wells. Looking for input on fit and finish, thickness of metal, and best overall quality. Any recommendations, or are they all made by one manufacturer in offshore? TIA

 

[73MustangCoupe]

I used Dynacorn rear quarters. If I recall correctly, the inner and outer wheel houses were CJ Classic from CJ Pony Parts. They Dynacorn quarters fit pretty well. The wheelhouses required some significant tweaking, but I was able to make them work. Not sure about who makes them, but it seems like, anymore, they all come from overseas.

I got a bunch of sheet metal from Ohio Mustang and some from CJ Pony Parts. I was not impressed with CJ Pony.

 

[turtle5353]

All made overseas. I have had best luck with Dynacorn. As with any aftermarket sheet metal, it all needs some work to fit properly.

 

[Lazarus]

Have Dynacorn quarters on my 72 vert and am very happy with them. I bought pretty much all dynacorn: a one piece floor, trunk, quarters, inner/outer wheel wells, and NASA hood. In general the sheet metal lined up pretty well.

I have had bad experiences with aftermarket sheet metal in the past - particularly on fenders for whatever reason - but I felt like the Dynacorn stuff I used was pretty good. As you suspect, some pieces were just the same as everyone else's, but some were definitely superior. All pieces, even NOS take some massaging but I never had that “I saved money on the part but lost it on the labor, or compromised on the fit” moment with the stuff I used from Dynacorn on my vert. But because of past experience I found an original fender for the side I had to replace and didn’t chance it.

Last thing I’ll add: I ordered the parts and picked them up so I could inspect everything before I took it. For those Mustang parts it was a 4 hour round trip but worth it to me. I know that isn’t always possible, but I have gone as far as 5-6 hours away to pick up sheet metal (for my 70 Jimmy). On these large complicated pieces there are just too many opportunities to have them get dinged up, and shipping costs are pretty high anyway so I like to go in person.

 

[dtmasoGT5]

Good info - I’m likely needing at least one quarter and rear tail light panel as the car starts body work this month.

 

[Rick@NPD]

With respect to most 71-73 major sheet metal panels, it's all "relatively newer" tooling (compared to 65-70), there's only one factory/tooling in Taiwan for it, and the quality is pretty tried and true. They did a pretty good job when they tooled-up for the 71-73 fenders, hoods, doors and quarters, relatively speaking.

Dynacorn doesn't "make" anything, but they do have the exclusive agreement on the quarters. So we have to buy our quarters through Dynacorn. But the outer wheelhouses we're able to buy direct, which is what we do. But it's the same factory and tooling as Dynacorn.

Now, if this was, for example, a 65-66 Mustang forum, I would strongly suggest to the forum that all sheet metal is not the same, and that there are multiple manufacturers and toolings involved and competing, and a lot of "brand confusion" due to the fact that the well-known brands are not actually manufacturers, just importers.

But, for 71-73, since the tooling is newer and the volume/demand smaller, it's still pretty much an all-the-same deal.

Rick
NPD

 

[Hemikiller]

There are a couple "gotchas" on the 71-73 parts.

The taillight panels are pre-punched for the 73-only center bumper filler panel - on a 71-72, those holes need to be welded shut. It's the entire horizontal row above the bumper mount holes. You also want to verify the brackets for the taillights are welded on correctly. I've seen a couple instances where they were crooked and the car was already painted.

Some quarters also come pre-punched for the 73-only quarter extension bumper filler piece. Again, those holes need to be welded shut on a 71-72.

Another bit of advice is to tack or self tap all of the panels in place and dry fit everything before welding. You'll want to have the valance, quarter extensions and trunk lid all installed to make sure everything lines up correctly.

 

[dtmasoGT5]

There are a couple "gotchas" on the 71-73 parts.

The taillight panels are pre-punched for the 73-only center bumper filler panel - on a 71-72, those holes need to be welded shut. It's the horizontal row above the bumper mount holes. You also want to verify the brackets for the taillights are welded on correctly. I've seen a couple instances where they were crooked and the car was already painted.

Some quarters also come pre-punched for the 73-only quarter extension bumper filler piece. Again, those holes need to be welded shut on a 71-72.

Another bit of advice is to tack or self tap all of the panels in place and dry fit everything before welding. You'll want to have the valance, quarter extensions and trunk lid all installed to make sure everything lines up correctly.

View attachment 85389

Hey Hemi,
Do you mean JUST the two holes indicated?

 

[Hemikiller]

Hey Hemi,
Do you mean JUST the two holes indicated?

The entire row of horizontal holes above the bumper brackets.

 

[73MustangCoupe]

Hemikiller is right!!! Test fit everything before welding it in place. Clecos, tek screws and clamping pliers are your friend when replacing sheet metal. I found that my quarter panel rear extensions didn't really fit my quarters very well, and had to do some work on the quarters to get everything matching nicely. Plan 3, 4, 7 steps ahead to hopefully avoid having to do a lot of extra work.

 

[70cobrascj]

Have Dynacorn quarters on my 72 vert and am very happy with them. I bought pretty much all dynacorn: a one piece floor, trunk, quarters, inner/outer wheel wells, and NASA hood. In general the sheet metal lined up pretty well.

I have had bad experiences with aftermarket sheet metal in the past - particularly on fenders for whatever reason - but I felt like the Dynacorn stuff I used was pretty good. As you suspect, some pieces were just the same as everyone else's, but some were definitely superior. All pieces, even NOS take some massaging but I never had that “I saved money on the part but lost it on the labor, or compromised on the fit” moment with the stuff I used from Dynacorn on my vert. But because of past experience I found an original fender for the side I had to replace and didn’t chance it.

Last thing I’ll add: I ordered the parts and picked them up so I could inspect everything before I took it. For those Mustang parts it was a 4 hour round trip but worth it to me. I know that isn’t always possible, but I have gone as far as 5-6 hours away to pick up sheet metal (for my 70 Jimmy). On these large complicated pieces there are just too many opportunities to have them get dinged up, and shipping costs are pretty high anyway so I like to go in person.

How was your experience with the hood?
Thanks

 

[70cobrascj]

With respect to most 71-73 major sheet metal panels, it's all "relatively newer" tooling (compared to 65-70), there's only one factory/tooling in Taiwan for it, and the quality is pretty tried and true. They did a pretty good job when they tooled-up for the 71-73 fenders, hoods, doors and quarters, relatively speaking.

Dynacorn doesn't "make" anything, but they do have the exclusive agreement on the quarters. So we have to buy our quarters through Dynacorn. But the outer wheelhouses we're able to buy direct, which is what we do. But it's the same factory and tooling as Dynacorn.

Now, if this was, for example, a 65-66 Mustang forum, I would strongly suggest to the forum that all sheet metal is not the same, and that there are multiple manufacturers and toolings involved and competing, and a lot of "brand confusion" due to the fact that the well-known brands are not actually manufacturers, just importers.

But, for 71-73, since the tooling is newer and the volume/demand smaller, it's still pretty much an all-the-same deal.

Rick
NPD

Rick a quick question that maybe you can answer. I’m looking to possibly purchase an hood. Are both 71-73 hoods listed in the catalog from the same manufacturer?
One has twist lock holes and one is without.
There is an almost 100 dollar difference and can’t think it would cost another 100 dollars to punch them holes out.
I would also think they would sell more with the holes punched out making it a lower to produce part.
Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

[Rick@NPD]

Rick a quick question that maybe you can answer. I’m looking to possibly purchase an hood. Are both 71-73 hoods listed in the catalog from the same manufacturer?
One has twist lock holes and one is without.
There is an almost 100 dollar difference and can’t think it would cost another 100 dollars to punch them holes out.
I would also think they would sell more with the holes punched out making it a lower to produce part.
Thanks for any help you can provide.

We buy the non-hole hood directly from Golden Legion, but we're getting the hole hood from Dynacorn (which is just a middleman). Why?? I'm looking into that, should have an answer in 24-48 hours.

 

[70cobrascj]

We buy the non-hole hood directly from Golden Legion, but we're getting the hole hood from Dynacorn (which is just a middleman). Why?? I'm looking into that, should have an answer in 24-48 hours.

Thanks Rick for the quick response much appreciated. Maybe Dynacorn being a middle is the reason for the 100 dollar difference.

 

[Lazarus]

How was your experience with the hood?
Thanks

My experience was very positive with the hood. I think it’s basically perfect now. That said, I went to the supplier and picked it up in person so as to inspect it before taking possession. Really wanted to make sure the corners weren’t bent, etc. And the hood was a little over-arched on first fitting (common with NOS and repro from what I hear); it required some gentle flattening with the 2x4 method described on others’ posts. I have 2 verts, one with an original Ford NASA hood and the one with the repro. No obvious difference.

 

[Rick@NPD]

Thanks Rick for the quick response much appreciated. Maybe Dynacorn being a middle is the reason for the 100 dollar difference.

We've learned from the manufacturer that the NACA hood with no twist-lock holes is open-market (they sell direct to us), but the one with the holes (same tooling, just an additional process) is under exclusive agreement to Dynacorn. So we're forced to buy it through Dynacorn, hence the $100 difference.

Rick
NPD

 

[vikingsandpintos]

We've learned from the manufacturer that the NACA hood with no twist-lock holes is open-market (they sell direct to us), but the one with the holes (same tooling, just an additional process) is under exclusive agreement to Dynacorn. So we're forced to buy it through Dynacorn, hence the $100 difference.

Rick
NPD

I got a hood (From NPD, I live about an hour and a half from one). The hood fit pretty good, just the arch issue like everyone says, I had to bend it with boards as described by others.

My only other issue, I bought it a few years ago and bolted it on to check fit ect as I am re-doing the whole car. It has been in pieces since, and not painted yet. I noticed the other day that the e-coat black has several spots that is starting to bubble, like rusting under the black. I haven't dug into it yet to see what is going on, but makes me nervous that I will have to strip it all down. I was hoping to scuff and paint, but.... It has been inside since I bought it, but I guess better to have it happen now instead of after paint!

 

[turtle5353]

I got a hood (From NPD, I live about an hour and a half from one). The hood fit pretty good, just the arch issue like everyone says, I had to bend it with boards as described by others.

My only other issue, I bought it a few years ago and bolted it on to check fit ect as I am re-doing the whole car. It has been in pieces since, and not painted yet. I noticed the other day that the e-coat black has several spots that is starting to bubble, like rusting under the black. I haven't dug into it yet to see what is going on, but makes me nervous that I will have to strip it all down. I was hoping to scuff and paint, but.... It has been inside since I bought it, but I guess better to have it happen now instead of after paint!

I would strip the ecoat off regardless. I don’t trust that China ecoat.
I have found a lot of stuff trapped under it. Oil, dirt, rust, Ect.

 

[Rick@NPD]

I got a hood (From NPD, I live about an hour and a half from one). The hood fit pretty good, just the arch issue like everyone says, I had to bend it with boards as described by others.

My only other issue, I bought it a few years ago and bolted it on to check fit ect as I am re-doing the whole car. It has been in pieces since, and not painted yet. I noticed the other day that the e-coat black has several spots that is starting to bubble, like rusting under the black. I haven't dug into it yet to see what is going on, but makes me nervous that I will have to strip it all down. I was hoping to scuff and paint, but.... It has been inside since I bought it, but I guess better to have it happen now instead of after paint!

turtle5353's post just below yours is spot-on....

Folks, do NOT trust e-coat... It is not sprayed on the part with the solid intention for it to be the basis and foundation of your prime-and-paint job... It is sprayed on there simply to ensure that the panels make it from Taiwan to USA, on that long boat ride through the salty air, without rusting.

But yes, the panels are stamped/assembled in large production runs, and then e-coated in large batches, and there very well could be the slight/invisible beginnings of surface rust prior to the coat being applied... Or oil... Realize that even in the finest factory with excellent quality control, this is factory production, not the careful attention of an experienced body/paint guru.

We frequently get complaints from customers when they receive a panel, any panel, that there are scratches in their e-coat, which most of the time are there at the time we receive the parts out of the overseas container.

And we have to carefully explain that the e-coat is just there to protect the part up to the point of their receipt, it is NOT intended to be a beautifully laid-out and flawless base-coat and foundation for their paintwork. Get rid of it. It's advisable regardless of whether it got scratched or scuffed in-transit.

Rick
NPD

 

[MOTORCITYBADBOY]

It's not hard to punch your own holes for the twist locks.. Here is just one idea on how to do it..