Split Spoiler help

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
101
Reaction score
15
Location
Granbury, TX
My Car
1971 Mustang Mach 1, 351 4v, C6, Holley 650
Just got up and running and inspected.  Drove an hour and a half to the new house up to 70mph with ease.  Unfortunately the spoiler didn't handle it very well.

Split right down the middle about half the length.  Looks at first glance a glue job of some sort would be fine for a semi permanent solution.  Any thoughts on this?

If so, what kind of adhesive would be best?   Different ideas?

Thanks

Eric



 
Last edited by a moderator:
You'll want to use a material appropriate adhesive. If it's fiberglass, I think Fusor or one of the other companies makes an adhesive that'll never come apart on you. Might be a good idea to visit a local body shop to get an opinion.

 
I would investigate why it splitted. From the pict, it looks like the upper part goes on the side upwards. To me, this indicates the supports are not paralel and kinda try to look at center of the car, causing the lower shape to bend upwards. Over time this stress may have leaded to separation. Are the holes in deck lid original?

For the repair, I would separate more, clean/sand roughtly at contact area then use epoxy resine while clamped under pressure.

After that, make sure the brakets holes match the lid holes without screws or pressure, as it looks the distance is too short from side to side, I'd then enlarge the bracket holes or offset the brackets outward.

 
Just got up and running and inspected.  Drove an hour and a half to the new house up to 70mpg with ease.  Unfortunately the spoiler didn't handle it very well.

Split right down the middle about half the length.  Looks at first glance a glue job of some sort would be fine for a semi permanent solution.  Any thoughts on this?

If so, what kind of adhesive would be best?   Different ideas?

Thanks

Eric

Thats really good mileage! I think I'm getting somewhere in the teens. ::thumb::

 
Looking at your picture, there is a flat leading edge. That is therefore a repop and I am pretty sure is made from ABS and foam filled. They are only about 120 bucks, is it worth trying to fix it? Is it still under warranty, can you take it back to your dealer? It should not have split like that unless there is considerable stress on it. If you do repair it, you'll need an ABS compatible adhesive or even plumbing adhesive might be strong enough if it's clamped well until cured.

I also noticed the bottom of the mount post is somewhat curved upward. Even on my factory spoiler, I have the same thing, but I don't see that as too much a problem other than it pulls on the trunk skin a bit, but not much one can do about that other than to try to flatten the bottom surface of the mount. Mostly just looks ugly!

On the subject of reproduced spoilers, I have seen some very WRONG ones. Some too thick, wrong curvature etc. The ones NPD sell are very close other than the flat leading edge. (I had one on my car when I got it, later replaced with a factory one). While on the subject, I lost count of how many I have seen mounted backwards!!

Geoff.

 
If it is factory then I agree with the fiberglass epoxy and lots of big rubber bands to hold it while curing. If aftermarket I have no idea. Do split it apart and get it cleaned up before gluing and paint it correct flat black, lol. I saw the factory originals crack in just a couple years when new so nothing that has not happened in the past.

I did lots of testing and research on glue while still working. We were working on a replacement for welding wheels together for lawn equipment. Glue was applied and then some spot welds to hold while curing. Never really found anything over the top. Loctite was the supplier we worked with.

Believe it or not still the best glue for wood is animal hide glue. Has been around for over 100 years. Was used to assemble player pianos which I also fool with. I have taken them apart and it is amazing how well 100 year old glue holds up. The player piano has to be totally air tight so you do not loose the vacuum that drives it. When animal hide glue dries it naturally pulls the two pieces together and no clamps are requires.

The spoiler does work if you go over 120 it usually bends the mounts on the bottom and can break them. They took off some of the Trans Am cars due to breaking so much in 69 & 70.

David

 
The temp finally climbed a few degs above freezing, so been into the garage whole afternoon and took a closer look at the 71 original spoiler. Very different shape and certainly not made out of two shapes glued together. So indeed, as David said, the proper "glue" needs be one that actually is compatible with the material your spoiler is made from. Tho, in my experience, epoxy is working very well in most cases and offer so much strength, I would roll once sticked back together, an extra layer on entire spoiler, so it becomes a sealed shape. Its then easy to sand, and offers a perfect base for a paint job.

No matter the glue/composite you will use, you'll still have to fix the way it's mounted on the car.

[ it usually bends .... on Trans am cars]

Was it not why it was called the "bendit"? :D

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just got up and running and inspected.  Drove an hour and a half to the new house up to 70mpg with ease.  Unfortunately the spoiler didn't handle it very well.

Split right down the middle about half the length.  Looks at first glance a glue job of some sort would be fine for a semi permanent solution.  Any thoughts on this?

If so, what kind of adhesive would be best?   Different ideas?

Thanks

Eric

Thats really good mileage! I think I'm getting somewhere in the teens. ::thumb::
Doesn't everyone get 70mpg?  I just tuned it up.  That must be why.

 
Back
Top