Steering gear replacement?

[72conv]

The steering gearbox in my '72 is worn out after 150k miles. It's the variable ratio gearbox that's part of the Competition Suspension package. Any suggestions on where to buy a proper quality rebuild, or to have mine rebuilt correctly?

 

[tony-muscle]

Try calling Lee Power Steering. They should be able to rebuild it.

 

[rcadd1ct]

I bought a lares new unit from Rock auto. Quick ratio.

I like it.

No core charge.

 

[Stanglover]

RedHead steering is another that others have recommended.
Personally, I've rebuilt my own, but then I had the tools and equipment available to me.
With that many miles on the original, your balls will be worn out.................. I mean the balls in your steering rack/piston.

 

[cjstaci]

I bought one from red head (located in Auburn,WA) for my 81 F350. It works fine, no leaks, no problems.
Make sure to replace your fluid lines and pump too.

 

[dendel]

Steer and gear Columbus Ohio does restoration for them. Did my 71 and it looks like new

 

[73inNH]

Another vote for Redhead. Quick ratio. Love it.

 

[rcadd1ct]

Let me see if this works. This is the one I got.

Lares 10807 is the part number. I had a coupon so I got it for less than $400 shipped

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...351cid+v8,1132861,steering,steering+gear,7416

 

[Stanglover]

Steer and gear Columbus Ohio does restoration for them. Did my 71 and it looks like new

They are a great company and friendly helpful people. They were good enough to supply me with parts, (bigger balls) to rebuild my own box(es). They didn't have to do that.

 

[giantpune]

Another vote for Redhead. Quick ratio. Love it.

Same here. I put one in my mach1 a couple years ago. No ragrats.
The factory one in my fastback leaks bad and needs replaced. When I get around to doing that one, I'm going with redhead again. I may stick with the non-quick ratio this go around. I'm still on the fence.

 

[RJM72]

Same here. I put one in my mach1 a couple years ago. No ragrats.
The factory one in my fastback leaks bad and needs replaced. When I get around to doing that one, I'm going with redhead again. I may stick with the non-quick ratio this go around. I'm still on the fence.

Do you recall the part number for the Red Head quick ratio box?

Rob

 

[Spike Morelli]

I had Lee Power Steering re-do my box. They offered the service of quicker steering components, but I'm happy with the as-new feel of the Variable Ratio that came with the car, figuring, why fix what isn't broke. I don't drive so aggressively that I'll need quicker steering. Lee had to "sleeve" a section of the valving, and they said nobody in the auto parts rebuild game takes the time to do sleeving and get as deep into it as they do. After looking at their shop , I believe them. They were not the cheapest, but my steering is smooth and quiet, and effortless.

 

[machattack]

RedHead steering is another that others have recommended.
Personally, I've rebuilt my own, but then I had the tools and equipment available to me.
With that many miles on the original, your balls will be worn out.................. I mean the balls in your steering rack/piston.

I installed a RED head rebuilt box. Its a ford O.E core. Its very tight and works great. You will need to send in a core or be charged a substantial amount.

 

[giantpune]

Do you recall the part number for the Red Head quick ratio box?

Rob

Here's the email from the order. I guess that 17500-3T is the part number. $200 core. And if you want them to give you a shipping label to return your core, it was $35. So after tax and shipping both ways and refunding the core, it was like $432.

 

[Ron Tanzi]

Have you tried adjusting it? My box in my 72 is original with 157K miles all I have done over the years is replaced all the seals, kept clean fluid in it and adjusted the sector shaft pre-load and it still functions well. Providing that you still have good power assist you could save a bunch of money. Just a thought.

Ron

 

[Stanglover]

Have you tried adjusting it? My box in my 72 is original with 157K miles all I have done over the years is replaced all the seals, kept clean fluid in it and adjusted the sector shaft pre-load and it still functions well. Providing that you still have good power assist you could save a bunch of money. Just a thought.

Ron

Ron, from my own findings, adjusting the sector shaft pre-load only take out the ware in the teeth. However, as Ford used to supply replacement rack/piston screw balls in 6 different size sets, all to 5 decimals, replacing the balls is the only proper way to take out excessive ware. If the top of the steering wheel has say, 2" of free play (1" left or right) then replacing the ball set with a larger diameter is needed.

 

[Ron Tanzi]

Ron, from my own findings, adjusting the sector shaft pre-load only take out the ware in the teeth. However, as Ford used to supply replacement rack/piston screw balls in 6 different size sets, all to 5 decimals, replacing the balls is the only proper way to take out excessive ware. If the top of the steering wheel has say, 2" of free play (1" left or right) then replacing the ball set with a larger diameter is needed.

I read that in the Ford manual Re: the replacement balls and I agree with you 100%. I didn't have play in the 1-2 inch range on mine. I guess I have been lucky with my steering box lasting this long. I set it up the adjustment when I had the box out and used an inch pound torque wrench. I think the spec was 8 inlbs of drag when setting the sector shaft adjustment. I have a spare non variable ratio box that I could send out or rebuild myself to variable ratio specs like my current original one. But for now my box works fine. It is funny to me that me being a GM hater at times, Saginaw made a really good steering gear. Smart play on Ford's part to use them in our cars. The pre 71 mustang power steering systems sucked.

Ron

 

[Stanglover]

I read that in the Ford manual Re: the replacement balls and I agree with you 100%. I didn't have play in the 1-2 inch range on mine. I guess I have been lucky with my steering box lasting this long. I set it up the adjustment when I had the box out and used an inch pound torque wrench. I think the spec was 8 inlbs of drag when setting the sector shaft adjustment. I have a spare non variable ratio box that I could send out or rebuild myself to variable ratio specs like my current original one. But for now my box works fine. It is funny to me that me being a GM hater at times, Saginaw made a really good steering gear. Smart play on Ford's part to use them in our cars. The pre 71 mustang power steering systems sucked.

Ron

Ron, you're right on with your comments. The ONLY way to set pre-load is on the bench.
Before I got to the point of rebuilding my own box(es), I tried to adjust the sector shaft while in the car and the result was scary. The steering would stick a bit either left or right to the point the ditch looked awfully close!! I don't recommend anyone trying to take out free play or slack with the box in the car. That said, a quarter turn clockwise on the shaft hex would be the max I'd even think about trying and even that might be too much, so be warned folks.

 

[mrgmhale]

Before replacing the steering gear for loose steering or wandering, check three things:

1. First, look at the Steering Coupler (aka Rag Joint) that sends steering column movement to the steering input shaft. If the rag Joint is worn out or looking beat up, that may bed all you need to rebuild or replace.
2. Try adjusting the steering gear (follow shop manual directions) to remove any internal lay due to normal wear.
3. Have the front end alignment checked. In adequate Caster Angle will let a car warder around (it is a Directional Stability Angle). If the Caster Angle is inadequate it may be due to one or more suspension parts needing replacement due to normal or excessive wear.

There are Rag Joint kits available to let you rebuild the Rag Joint, or for many Rag Joints new parts are still available. Be aware, if you have a factory Tilt Wheel option on your Mustang or Cougar, the Rag Joint is likely not the same as for Fixed Wheel Steering Column vehicles. The spline count and design is different.

 

[RJM72]

Here's the email from the order. I guess that 17500-3T is the part number. $200 core. And if you want them to give you a shipping label to return your core, it was $35. So after tax and shipping both ways and refunding the core, it was like $432.

View attachment 91707

Thanks!