Totalled's rebuild thread

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Changed my mind again.. I would have to grind the XXX's out of the valley to clear the dog bones for the roller lifters, besides drilling and tapping the valley for the spider... This motor's too clean inside to risk spreading metal around. And.. I'm picking up a complete second engine tomorrow that will be the block donor for the new motor. :D Gonna stick the air gap intake on this one, paint it, replace the oil pan, and call it done for this year. Time to drive this thing.

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Got a Milodon pan with an acceleration baffle for it.

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Spent the morning fetching the core motor for next year's build. '71 2V. It was advertized as "turns over" but was stuck when I showed up. So, I got it for $120. Hopefully the cylinder walls aren't too rusted or already bored.

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When I got home, I finished cleaning the motor up and painted it. I did the "concourse" (lazy) method and painted it with the distributor in.

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Then a little mockup. It's gonna look great in the car. :D

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Back on this. Working on the trans this weekend. Swapped the stock "J" code servo with a Sonnax "R" code version. Much larger apply and release area.

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Some pics of the markings on the case. A yellow "11 72" also showed up on the back of the bell near the top bolts after I cleaned the case with degreaser.

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I also found the buck tag after going through some of Dad's paperwork.

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Which roller lifters were you going to put in? I have another motor that I was going to build out with a slightly milder cam for a possible future project and I have the ones from Comp Cams (284HR) that use the fingers to keep the lifters aligned. It doesn't have the connecting bar between the intake and exhaust lifters. Is that why you are going to have to grind out those dog bones? I wouldn't think that using the spider setup if there isn't a bar that you would have to grind out the X's. Just wondering if I am going to run into the same issues.

 
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Progress. Got the slip yoke bushing and seal replaced in the tail housing.

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About halfway through putting a B&M transpack into the valve body. Going with "Stage 2, street and strip." The trans already had a shift kit but wouldn't manually shift to 1rst gear at much speed above stopped. This kit adds manual control, besides firming shifts.

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Lunch time update. valve body back together, installed, and new pan installed. Need to replace the front pump torque converter seal, and put a new modulator in. Then it is ready to install.

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Looking good Pat, it'll be on the road again in no time at all. I was looking at the other block that I have and it doesn't have those dog bones like yours does. Do you know why the were cast in, does it have any special significance when it's there?

 
I don't know why some blocks have the letters in the valley. I got the trans done. Hopefully next weekend I can finish up the engine and marry it back up with the trans. Maybe even drop them back into the car. :D

 
Progress looking good Pat. Was at the Albertson car show just up the road from your house today, mine was the only 71-73 there, looking forward to seeing yours back on the road again.

Jim

 
"Hard parts over. Now for the thousands of little things."

I think you may have underestimated the number of things to do. Seriously, that is looking awesome!

 
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