Upper and lower control arm replacement

[California 72]

Did wish to ask a question about the spindles and caliper brackets too. The safety wire for the bolts was long gone and so while cleaning them, decided to disassemble the two. What wire size and pattern to secure is best. Just sitting down for the evening and getting ready to search but there's a wealth of knowledge that I prefer to tap first. Thanks in advance.

 

[Sheriff41]

16 gauge, preferably, or 18 gauge steel safety wire works.

 

[Don C]

I believe it originally had cotter pins, not safety wire. In any case I would use cotter pins.

 

[Sheriff41]

I believe it originally had cotter pins, not safety wire. In any case I would use cotter pins.

I assumed he was asking about the caliper mounting bracket to spindle bolts. They were safety wired from the factory.

 

[California 72]

I assumed he was asking about the caliper mounting bracket to spindle bolts. They were safety wired from the factory.

Thank you, yes, that's correct. I was asking about those. Got side tracked with a couple things. Was there a specific pattern? Or was it threaded through making certain to loop around the mounting position?

To be honest and if I remember correctly, this is a bit different setup than the I-beam swap to convert drum to disc brakes on my '66 F100.

 

[Sheriff41]

Thank you, yes, that's correct. I was asking about those. Got side tracked with a couple things. Was there a specific pattern? Or was it threaded through making certain to loop around the mounting position?

To be honest and if I remember correctly, this is a bit different setup than the I-beam swap to convert drum to disc brakes on my '66 F100.

Check out the pictures on this site: https://www.deadnutson.com/1967-70-disc-brake-spindle-safety-wire/

The routing will be very similar to what's shown in the photos.

 

[California 72]

16 gauge, preferably, or 18 gauge steel safety wire works.

That's about .045-.051? That brings back a strong memory of my dad's work bench at home. He was in the aerospace industry and we had a spool remnant that I would use for the clutch on my motocross bike. Gawd that was tedious to rebuild and rethread.

edit. yup, it's .047 alright. Phunny, my winding pliers doesn't look like those new one's. Doesn't have that handy center-thread spindle. Think I'll order one just in case the hands don't want to cooperate. LOL

 

[Sheriff41]

I just use some lineman's pliers to twist the wire. Not as neat as lock wire pliers but gets the job done. But any reason to buy more tools works for me!

 

[California 72]

I just use some lineman's pliers to twist the wire. Not as neat as lock wire pliers but gets the job done. But any reason to buy more tools works for me!

Every project is a reason! Needless to say, lottsa projects means you have Garage sales to keep room for the '72, in the garage.

 

[Hemikiller]

SCOTT DRAKE C7ZZ-5310-P

Thanks again.

Those are pretty much just a generic spring. You'll have to install them and see how they sit in your car, then trim or spacer them to get the ride height you want.

 

[California 72]

Those are pretty much just a generic spring. You'll have to install them and see how they sit in your car, then trim or spacer them to get the ride height you want.

Thanks for the update. I sort of hedged my search ahead of hearing from the seller and they've agreed to a return. The idea of installing them and making adjustments doesn't sound like something I'm willing to perform.

The place I found was Coil Spring Specialties. Anyone out there who has experience with them? I did get a quote and it's a touch more than the "generic" spring but the idea it's made for my car with the info I provided them, is very appealing.

Still looking at options so those that have gone thru this, your input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Don C]

I assumed he was asking about the caliper mounting bracket to spindle bolts. They were safety wired from the factory.

I should have read more carefully, you are correct. I believe each safety wire is wrapped around the spindle arm once and then the wire twisted a minimum of 5 times.

 

[Don C]

Thanks for the update. I sort of hedged my search ahead of hearing from the seller and they've agreed to a return. The idea of installing them and making adjustments doesn't sound like something I'm willing to perform.

The place I found was Coil Spring Specialties. Anyone out there who has experience with them? I did get a quote and it's a touch more than the "generic" spring but the idea it's made for my car with the info I provided them, is very appealing.

Still looking at options so those that have gone thru this, your input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

I would go direct to the spring experts, Eaton Detroit Springs website. They will have what you need:
https://eatondetroitspring.com/db/e...ang&sbody=Convertible&seng=V8+5.8L+-+351+2bbl

 

[California 72]

I would go direct to the spring experts, Eaton Detroit Springs website. They will have what you need:
https://eatondetroitspring.com/db/e...ang&sbody=Convertible&seng=V8+5.8L+-+351+2bbl

Don,

Thanks for the info. I checked them out and was ready to purchase but they had no mention of PayPal. Anyhow, ended up with Coil Spring Specialties and they just shipped today and are on their way. Actually, saved a couple bucks too.

 

[California 72]

Actually had an appearance question; how many of your painted your suspension parts, both the new and the OE cleaned or just cleaned them and didn't apply any paint? Also iif painted, what is a really durable coating?

I was looking at some of the chassis paints available in a matte finish.

Reason asking about paint or not, as I've been cleaning the parts, you all know how oil soaked and filthy things can get over 52 years. I'm doing the parts cleaner tank, brass wire brush method and the metal, especially my spindle parts while trying to remove the rust, is starting to polish. I thought about just sealing them the way they look.

I'll try and provide a picture later, getting ready to dive into the new Redhead steering gear box installation. Been waiting for months to get this in.

Later!

 

[Aus73Mach1]

I used Black Zinc paint on all the under body suspension parts, also the diff housing. The parts were stripped/blasted to bare metal and then coated as per can instructions. This stuff doesn't chip like primer and paint. Great on coil & flat springs, torsion bars, exhaust hangers, etc. Finish is probably matt to semi-gloss. No mixing paint and a can goes a long way.

 

[California 72]

Here’s some of my process
https://7173mustangs.com/threads/ribs-71-convertible-build-june-21-till.38365/page-9

Ribs, I'm trying to avoid the tear down like you did but only because of space. No where to store the parts taken off and not much more room to work on them. Noticing some things that are really making sense with where I'm at in the stages.

Decided to scrap the new "rubber" style saddles I had and did the upgrade to the urethane type, with grease fitting. Rollers are just too pricey and while I would love to wind the car out on a suitable mountain road like in my younger days north of Dawsonville on Rt.19, not possible anymore so these will do. Not to get off topic but one of those times I had to go up to Hiawassee area one time to pick up some Trout for a restaurant I worked at in Atlanta. What a blast but that was 30 years ago.

Anyhow, actually found the rectangular bumpers too. I didn't like the wedge type for up there. Too weak looking for me. I figured out where the huge clunk was from too, besides the bushings being shot, one bumper was missing.
The new springs are a huge step up from stock. Granted the OE are 52 years old, the new springs have about 3-4lbs wt. each above the OE. Same height but from how they came out, not looking forward to putting them in. I did pick up a compressor similar to the one Hemikiller posted. The drivers sied gave me a fit but when I moved i to be in the spring and not on the shock tower, it worked much better. I'm hoping that the change in saddle will allow for a better effort or at least one that doesn't take my head off with the bending I saw in your post.

Later

 

[California 72]

I used Black Zinc paint on all the under body suspension parts, also the diff housing. The parts were stripped/blasted to bare metal and then coated as per can instructions. This stuff doesn't chip like primer and paint. Great on coil & flat springs, torsion bars, exhaust hangers, etc. Finish is probably matt to semi-gloss. No mixing paint and a can goes a long way.

View attachment 85394View attachment 85395

It's definitely impossible to find this brand here in the states. Dead links are to blame but I think I found something close. Thanks for the lead.

 

[Sheriff41]

It's definitely impossible to find this brand here in the states. Dead links are to blame but I think I found something close. Thanks for the lead.

I've gotten good results with VHT Chassis and Rollbar paint. It comes in satin or gloss and is available at most auto parts stores.

 

[California 72]

I've gotten good results with VHT Chassis and Rollbar paint. It comes in satin or gloss and is available at most auto parts stores.

I've seen that out there on shelves. Good to know. Thank you.