What did you do to your car today?

[sm3570]

Looked at it. Man that paint job looks nice.

 

[mach71351c]

Spent a good part of the morning un bolting the pink Coupe. Should have it all striped tomorrow.

 

[leomust68]

Well nothing .but I did open the box of the carpet that I ordered for my car today

 

[Mikes73]

I installed my radiator, fan shroud and installed new strut rod bushings. It is getting there a little bit at a time.

 

[Manu Mach1]

The pilot bushing is on, then the clutch.

And today I received a pair of Flowmaster 40 series, that's my christmas day

Coming along great!

Slowly but surely

Today, I put the bellhousing in place, then the seal in the rear axle.





Then between around 140 ft/lbs should be good to tight the nut of the yoke, as I changed only the seal.

About that, any comment will be appreciated and helpfull for me.

 

[marks73]

The pilot bushing is on, then the clutch.

And today I received a pair of Flowmaster 40 series, that's my christmas day

Coming along great!

Slowly but surely

Today, I put the bellhousing in place, then the seal in the rear axle.

Then between around 140 ft/lbs should be good to tight the nut of the yoke, as I changed only the seal.

About that, any comment will be appreciated and helpfull for me.

According to the manual, I think you were supposed to make a note of the ft/lbs it took to remove the nut and then torque it to that amount when putting it back.

 

[Paul of MO]

Look it up and get the correct spec / process. Long ago I put one in and just tightened it on down. It ate up the pinion bearing in less than 50 miles.

Ended up haveing to do the whole thing over agian.

I have recently used a solid sleeve in place of the crush type with better results - they are more expensive but much more fool proof.

- Paul

Slowly but surely

Today, I put the bellhousing in place, then the seal in the rear axle.

Then between around 140 ft/lbs should be good to tight the nut of the yoke, as I changed only the seal.

About that, any comment will be appreciated and helpfull for me.

 

[Mikes73]

Final torque is based on rotational resistance on the pinion bearing, 5-8 inch lbs for new bearings or 8 inch lbs for used bearings. I've setup a few rear ends and the hardest part is compressing the crush sleeve, if you use an impact sneak up on it and finish tourqing it by hand. Since you just changed out the pinion seal you should be okay by just snugging the pinion nut down and just tightening it a little more. I've had good luck doing this in the past but don't take this as gospel, also it's best to use a new pinion nut or at least put some red loctite on the old one.

 

[mchandford]

ok first off, does anyone else have a problem getting to the last page of this thread? every time i hit the last page button it tells me the page doesn't exist.

On to my post for the day: Today I went back to the car, re-installed the top of the carb. was easier than I thought it would be. put screws back in, re-install rods and springs, and reconnect fuel, choke and throttle connections. I didn't start it today so I still might have missed something, but it looked good.

I also installed the arm rests in the doors, and started mounting the dash speaker I just got in the mail.

Need some thoughts on the speaker. This may seem kind of like a jerry-rig, but i think it may actually be a good idea. If i 'hang' the speaker in the opening under the dash pad with zip ties (or something better) then it will not be making metal/metal contact with any of the dash. this would, in a way, insulate it from vibration. I am obviously looking into some brackets for it, but that is how I got the speaker in place temporarily so that i could see the fitment. Going to work on the wires next time I'm out there.

I also have to go get an air cleaner spacer so that my new Edelbrock air cleaner will fit over the choke housing and fuel inlet. My regular parts store didn't have it in stock, but I will grab it from their sister store tomorrow.

I also brought home the interior door handles so that I could polish them up a little.

Other than that I just cleaned up the inside of tools, and loose screws. I did however forget to take any pictures at all. oops.

 

[sm3570]

About the page thing, that shows up for the last one or two posts on the "previous" page.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Spent most of the weekend getting the Auto Hobby Shop ready for a safety inspection tomorrow, so I didn't get much work done on my project. I did manage to get a pic of the stock '89 Mustang GT AOD shifter, and you can see how much difference the slope in the Fox bodies are compared to ours. If I can make some spacers for the front end of the shifter and have it still look decent with a full console, I'll go that route. Otherwise, I'm thinking a B&M Megashifter might be in my future.

 

[sm3570]

Wow Eric, that's a lot of slope!

 

[Mister 4x4]

Wow Eric, that's a lot of slope!

I know - we were talking about it in another thread, and Silverback didn't think it had as much as it did. So, I got a pic to show it off. I'm just hoping it won't look too dumb with the full console, otherwise I'll have to go with something else.

Hey - the price was right (FREE!!) since it came with the AOD tranny I scored when a buddy swapped it out for a T-5 in his '89 5.0 GT 'vert. He hooked me up with pretty much everything except the yoke, which I found online for about $30 - so it was definitely a monster score.

The shifter works perfectly, but it just sits in mine a little funny because obviously the Fox bodies tranny tunnels are little different.

I'm open to suggestions. I had unfastened the plastic 'indicator housing' and I'm not sure I'd be able to modify it enough to look right and still work properly. My plan was to make some spacers for the front of the shifter assembly and go from there.

 

[mach71351c]

Wow Eric, that's a lot of slope!

I know - we were talking about it in another thread, and Silverback didn't think it had as much as it did. So, I got a pic to show it off. I'm just hoping it won't look too dumb with the full console, otherwise I'll have to go with something else.

Hey - the price was right (FREE!!) since it came with the AOD tranny I scored when a buddy swapped it out for a T-5 in his '89 5.0 GT 'vert. He hooked me up with pretty much everything except the yoke, which I found online for about $30 - so it was definitely a monster score.

The shifter works perfectly, but it just sits in mine a little funny because obviously the Fox bodies tranny tunnels are little different.

I'm open to suggestions. I had unfastened the plastic 'indicator housing' and I'm not sure I'd be able to modify it enough to look right and still work properly. My plan was to make some spacers for the front of the shifter assembly and go from there.

Eric do think the shifter will clear the radio?

Today I pretty much finished stripping what was any good on the pink Coupe. I'm going to give it one more look over then off to the bone yard it goes. I removed some super rare pieces. When was the last time you saw Pink seat platforms? If ever.

 

[HighOctane]

Didn't really do anything to the car today except taking it on a 30 to 40 mile mini cruise. This was to fully test the thermostat and sensor change I did a few weeks ago. The weather was finally good enough to drive it more than a few times around the block. No overheating and the car did great.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Final torque is based on rotational resistance on the pinion bearing, 5-8 inch lbs for new bearings or 8 inch lbs for used bearings. I've setup a few rear ends and the hardest part is compressing the crush sleeve, if you use an impact sneak up on it and finish tourqing it by hand. Since you just changed out the pinion seal you should be okay by just snugging the pinion nut down and just tightening it a little more. I've had good luck doing this in the past but don't take this as gospel, also it's best to use a new pinion nut or at least put some red loctite on the old one.

Thanks everyone for your comments.

It's what I need to do and take care about the final torque, by checking the rotational resistance on the pinion bearing.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Got the rt side door- fender--qtr--hood gaps ready for 3/16" gap shaping metal work..Also been pecking away at the left side roof to qtr joint

Today I pretty much finished stripping what was any good on the pink Coupe. I'm going to give it one more look over then off to the bone yard it goes. I removed some super rare pieces. When was the last time you saw Pink seat platforms? If ever.

If the rear corner (trunk gutter) to body panel pieces are good you should grab those too !

 

[Mister 4x4]

Eric do think the shifter will clear the radio?

That's a good question. I haven't put the dash back in since I'm still working on the harness, but I'm thinking that it'll be close if it does.

 

[marks73]

Cleaned out the spare bay in the garage today. ~1400lbs. I saved a bunch of the "what if I need this down the road" stuff though.

 

[mach71351c]

Got the rt side door- fender--qtr--hood gaps ready for 3/16" gap shaping metal work..Also been pecking away at the left side roof to qtr joint

Today I pretty much finished stripping what was any good on the pink Coupe. I'm going to give it one more look over then off to the bone yard it goes. I removed some super rare pieces. When was the last time you saw Pink seat platforms? If ever.

If the rear corner (trunk gutter) to body panel pieces are good you should grab those too !

Ah good point Q,I will cut them out.

Eric do think the shifter will clear the radio?

That's a good question. I haven't put the dash back in since I'm still working on the harness, but I'm thinking that it'll be close if it does.

I'm thinking it's going to be to close. Thinking how far forward the stock shifter sits in park.