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OK,  I am once again over frustrated with CAA.

With the post above, you see I "Cross threaded" the hose onto the condensor.

Well, I went out, found the correct 3/4 10 thread die and fixed the condensor threads!  Whew.....

Now that friggin Classic Auto Air Hose STILL wont thread on it.  Looks like a double thread on the fitting thread start.  Of course, CAA is not open on the weekends when I have time to look at this stuff.  I may jsut clean up my original hose and cut my losses.  This is total BS!!

Anyone have any ideas how to "Fix" the hose fitting threads?

kcmash

 
OK,  I am once again over frustrated with CAA.

With the post above, you see I "Cross threaded" the hose onto the condensor.

Well, I went out, found the correct 3/4 10 thread die and fixed the condensor threads!  Whew.....

Now that friggin Classic Auto Air Hose STILL won't thread on it.  Looks like a double thread on the fitting thread start.  Of course, CAA is not open on the weekends when I have time to look at this stuff.  I may jsut clean up my original hose and cut my losses.  This is total BS!!

Anyone have any ideas how to "Fix" the hose fitting threads?

kcmash

So the threads are multiple start (double pitch) on the hose?  Pictures would help.

 
Got that cleaned up.  Now I need to figure out how the Quick Disconnect is supposed to work.  I can't figure out what o-ring to use in the union part.  There was a black one in the ID of the hose side and I can't get a green one in there.

kcmash

Sorry, too much work to upload pictures.

OK, Feeling a lot better.

Completed all AC hose connections, sucked the system down and she has been holding full vacuum for the last 2 hours. That is a good sign from what I know.

 
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2 hours of holding a vacuum on a system with as little volume as this is plenty. Nice work. Charge that system up and enjoy the AC. AC is One of my projects for this winter. Took the Mustang out for a drive today (mid 90’s) let’s just say it was a short ride.

 
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You had better luck than me for sure. When I first put the system back on it held vacuum fine and worked fine when I charged it. It developed a leak over the winter and I have not been able to locate the source of the leak. 

One issue I have with the green O-rings is that they are metric and the system was built to inch back then. Metric is all I can find and when I pull connections back apart the O-rings do not look like they are right. They look crushed.

Were you able to find Inch O-rings is so where did you get them?

That is my next task to go back to R-134 so I can find the leak with a sniffer and then after that go back to the Dura Cool refrigerant. 

At shows people ask why would you want AC on a vert. My answer is. You have never owned a vert have you? If you ride around with top down you get cooked for sure. 

On a hot day I can drive up in the mountains and in 20 min. I have the heater on it is much cooler up there.

 
Hmm interesting question on the o-rings.

First of all I used to have a convertible and I get it.  Yes, if you have a zip down rear window, there can be some cool drives with nice sun shade, but if the humidity goes up you will die at every stop light or congestion point on the highway.

For the o-Rings I used a generic O-Ring kit from O-Rielly.  I seemed to have a great fit for everything except for the quick disconnect  fitting near the sight glass.  I ended up having to use a buna O-ring from a kit for that fitting. If I start leaking, that will be my first look.

A couple questions.  Have you tried the UV leak kits from the Auto parts stores?  They come with a dye shot, a UV pen light, and Goggles.  If you cant see anything, it is likely your evaporator.

Tell me about the Dura Cool, what do you know about that?  I want to get as cold as I can at the lowest pressure I can.

kcmash

 
Replaced the stock 2 barrel intake manifold and Motorcraft 2100D on the 302 with an Edelbrock Performer manifold, Performer 600 carb and new air cleaner.

Definitely worth it. Looks great and drives even better.





 
Replaced the stock 2 barrel intake manifold and Motorcraft 2100D on the 302 with an Edelbrock Performer manifold, Performer 600 carb and new air cleaner.

Definitely worth it. Looks great and drives even better.



Looks great! I did the same swap a long time ago (but with a Holley). Did you toss your original air filter housing? Reason I'm asking is I'm looking to go back to it!

 
Replaced the stock 2 barrel intake manifold and Motorcraft 2100D on the 302 with an Edelbrock Performer manifold, Performer 600 carb and new air cleaner.

Definitely worth it. Looks great and drives even better.



Looks great! I did the same swap a long time ago (but with a Holley). Did you toss your original air filter housing? Reason I'm asking is I'm looking to go back to it!
Thanks.
I did keep all of the original parts. The plan right now is to pass them along with the car.

I'm just fixin' to get ready to start to get going.

 
Went out to another car show - around 90 cars, no award (no biggie, though - had a blast even though it was 95 and no shade).

Got home, parked in the driveway under the carport and went into the house for a few.  Went back out to put Frank back in the garage, hit the key and the starter did its usual chug one revolution and drug down to nothing, but didn't recover and spin normally to start... then just buzzed.  I figured it was heat soak, since it normally does this after I've driven it around awhile, so I let it sit for a few hours and cool down.  Just went back out and hit the key, and it just buzzed.  So, I think the starter's toast - I hope it's just the starter, anyway.

Fortunately, these cars aren't nearly as heavy and bloated as everybody thinks they are, so I had my wife steer into the garage while I gave it a push (we have a slightly inclined driveway, probably 2-3 degrees under the carport, but more like 6-7 at the end).  Fortunately, a quick shove and Frank's back in the garage, safe and sound.

I guess I'll swing by O'Reilly Auto Parts sometime this week and pick up a new one, then swap it out next weekend or something.
OK - so that took a little longer than I thought it did.  I scored a hi-torque racing starter motor, thanks to the advice of my buddy Fabrice... then it got hot... really hot.  Then it cooled off a bit and I got busy.  Now it's hot again and I decided enough is enough.  I remembered that my Jeep does the same thing (starter solenoid buzzes) when the battery's low, so I picked up an Optima Red Top today along with a new starter solenoid (just in case).  Of course, still being hot (still showing 97 at almost 8:00PM), I took the lazy man's way out and swapped the 6 year old Super Start battery and decided to give the key a bump just to see what would happened.  Well... it cranked nice and strong and fired right up is what happened.  So - I have a spare starter solenoid and hi-torque starter motor on the shelf for if/when I need 'em.

I'm glad it turned out not to be the starter motor, since the Auto Hobby Shop is currently closed (needs air compressor worked on, and Civil Engineering is being petty about something, and dragging their feet to fix it - 'business as usual at Goodfellow AFB,' in other words.  I'd much rather swap that awesome new starter motor in while it's on a lift.  Hopefully, that'll come soon.

Polished up another wheel and swapped out wheel well trim, in prep for my first show on July 4th.
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My Gawd, this is a gorgeous car.  Well done, Sir.  ::thumb::

I put the hood and grille on this past weekend. She's 99% back together! All that's left are the rear valance that I can't seem to get a good finish on with the Dupli-Color, a couple of electrical issues (horn and brake lights), and chasing a leak or two. Then she's ready for safety inspection and a tag!



I love this car, and I love the old school Hurricane rims.  AWESOME!! ::thumb::

 
I put my fastback rear glass in, thanks for info. and tips that you guys have posted. It went with no issues. The seal from Don @ Ohio Mustang

worked and fill well. 2-46 cent nylon 6' fishing leaders from walmart worked good for the rope a little over 1/8" diameter

 
I trailered the car out to a buddies shop to do the POR15 cleaner/degreaser along with the metal prep.  Pretty happy with how it turned out.  Hopefully get it sealed up in the very near future.  Good thing it is low humidity where I live!

Also put some different wheels on the back just for the paint work - came off an 18’ mustang that was totaled.  Couldn’t beat the price of $25/ wheel





 
I trailered the car out to a buddies shop to do the POR15 cleaner/degreaser along with the metal prep.  Pretty happy with how it turned out.  Hopefully get it sealed up in the very near future.  Good thing it is low humidity where I live!

Also put some different wheels on the back just for the paint work - came off an 18’ mustang that was totaled.  Couldn’t beat the price of $25/ wheel



WOW great price on the wheels I will take a set. I will be looking for something different to go on my track days car so I can get better speed rated tires to be legal.

Sometimes POR is a son of a gun to paint over, very difficult to scuff it up to get the paint to stick.

 
I’ve heard that about POR-15, it is only being applied to the inside, I probably won’t put any other coating on top of it. Exterior is getting epoxy prime.

I wish I could get another deal like the one I got on the wheels.  The guy bought a wrecked 18’ EcoBoost and swapped the engine and transmission into his shortbed F100.  He was liquidating the rest of the car for cheap.  I only got 3 wheels, one was perfect, the other two had some pretty heavy paint damage from the wreck.  Perfect rollers that clear big brakes.

 
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I got a package this morning with a note in it from OMS (Don)  ::thumb::

and made sure I did the job right ... I took photos of the whole operation that took hours of preparation., but the results are well worth it. 

I was wondering whether I had the skills to do something this precise. 

As you can see, it is a critical piece of the car....



Then I got out the manual ...



Reading these forums I realized - you have to do these things right.



and be careful you dont damage the new part, yourself or the car...







I got out my tool ...





voila ... all done 



Thank you Don  :thankyouyellow:

 
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1sostatic, if I were you I would toss that manual in the nearest trash bin and purchase the 5 volume FORD shop manual !
That is a little harsh on the manuals, lol. I have one for the 73 and it tells you to unbolt the front cross member. NOT it is welded in. Have found a few errors in the Ford one also. 

1sostatic, is that a CB radio or a police so you know when they are chasing you? CB use to be the rage in the 70's here.

 
1sostatic, if I were you I would toss that manual in the nearest trash bin and purchase the 5 volume FORD shop manual !
That is a little harsh on the manuals, lol. I have one for the 73 and it tells you to unbolt the front cross member. NOT it is welded in. Have found a few errors in the Ford one also. 

1sostatic, is that a CB radio or a police so you know when they are chasing you? CB use to be the rage in the 70's here.
Hi Carolina Mountain Dave

It is a fully functioning CB - 10:4 good buddy  ::thumb::

 
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Opened up the garage, put the key in the ignition, turned it, and it fired right up.  So, I took it to Cars & Coffee.

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Wow - that old, fat guy should lose some weight and quit putting his drink on top of the washer bottle.   :whistling:

 
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