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Pulled the dash out and then the heater box so that I can clean everything and replace the heater core. I have new switches and a harness that was repaired by Midlife going back in. So close to getting this car on the road, the suspense is killing me! Another good thing is that my cowl was in great shape when I pulled the heater box out. Made me smile a little. 

Tom

 
Looking forward to meeting you in the HRPT. My car is ready as well. I am bringing a trunk full of tools and parts so there will be a lot of help if needed.
I pack a decent array of tools along with a small floor jack and a folding jack stand a small pop-up and the necessities. You know, a cooler with snacks and beverages... 

 
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I put on my new plates that finally arrived in the mail today…was tough to come up with a custom plate that wasn’t already taken. I still prefer my original 1971-1973 Minnesota plates, but at least I’m legal now. 6338732D-1A24-47AB-B4DD-F1363D99FE04.jpeg

 
I noticed last weekend that the front right brake is getting warmer than the left, and that the pony is pulling lightly to the right when braking. 
After disassembling the brake drum I found the cause. The lower sliding points for the brake shoes have deep grooves and therefore the brake can no longer open completely. 

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Does anyone here have two of these brake anchor plates, a left and a right one, in good condition left and would send me across the big pond to Germany?

Cheers Frank

 
I noticed last weekend that the front right brake is getting warmer than the left, and that the pony is pulling lightly to the right when braking. 
After disassembling the brake drum I found the cause. The lower sliding points for the brake shoes have deep grooves and therefore the brake can no longer open completely. 

Does anyone here have two of these brake anchor plates, a left and a right one, in good condition left and would send me across the big pond to Germany?

Cheers Frank


Weld up the grooves and grind them flat, easy repair and no need to replace. 

 
Front drums eh! Why not look at doing a simple front disc brake conversion. You don't need to spend tons of money or buy a fancy disc set-up. I'm not sure if they're still available as SSBC were bought out I believe, but I put the SSBC 4 piston Kelsey-Hayes style front conversion that bolts on to drum spindles. The kit I bought had the master cylinder and rear bias valve. It's really not hard to do and well worth it. At first I drove the car without a power booster and really, I could have left it that way. 

Just a thought to help you spend your money! If not, do as Hemi suggests. 

 
Continued my battle against leaks.  Gave up on the aluminum Cleveland timing cover and went back to a steel one.  I am convinced the aluminum ones are too flexible.  After it leaked twice I decided to round bin it.  Also took out the thermostat since I was running one of those “Pantera” style restrictors that allow the use of non-Cleveland thermostats.  Getting the old restrictor out involved use of force.  Slide hammer, drill and body saw.
 

Now ready for a TMeyer Cleveland and restrictor to show up in the mail.  I’m going back to the OEM style with the hat on the thermostat.  

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Made a new glove box out of 1/8" ABS sheeting.

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It was fairly easy to do, pulled the staples out of the old cardboard box, spread it out and traced it onto the ABS sheet and cut it out. The hardest part was getting the bends right using a heat gun, practiced with some scraps, first. Used ABS cement to connect the sides to the back piece. Used the old plastic trim. A test fit was good.

I'm going to try a spray on flocking on the inside, or maybe line it with felt, I haven't used to flock stuff before, don't know if it is durable.

 
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Another project I've been working on is to convert a '86 to '91 F-series tilt column to a '71 Mustang. I just need to figure out if I'm going to use the Mustang ignition switch or the F-150 switch. I would prefer to use the F-150 switch, higher current capacity, but it's really tight. Did some test fitting and measuring today. I have a write-up about 90% complete, if anyone is interested I'll post it as a draft version.

 
And, finally, started on converting the hood latch mechanism to a cable controlled mechanism, with the latch lever only releasing the secondary latch. It looks like it will be fairly easy, the latch lever contacts the main latch mechanism via a small tab, straightening or cutting off the tab will allow the lever to open the secondary latch, only. It will require welding on a small tab to the bottom of the assembly to provide a connection point for the cable housing and also conceal the connection, and welding a small tab to the main latch release lever to connect the cable to.

As you can tell, I like building or revising things. The glove box project costs less for materials than a repop glove box, but it took a couple of hours to get it together, if I had to pay myself it wouldn't be cost effective, but I liked doing it.

 
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Attachments

  • Converting 1971-73 Mustangs to Tilt Steering using a 1986 to 1991 F-Series Steering Column.pdf
    3 MB · Views: 29
Over the past few days I have been finishing up little things on my car.  All new vacuum hoses properly run so everything works including Ram Air doors and heat riser motor.  Installed all new exterior light bulbs, and modern 3 point seat belts.

Mostly I have been driving every chance I get.  Since the first engine start since 1992 16 days ago I have put over 300 miles on the car!  I have other cars that are faster and handle better but none of them make me smile like this old girl.  I have a silly SEG on my face the whole time I am out on the road.

I still need to post up a walk around video and some glamor shots but for now here are two photos after the first wax job in 30 years.

Oh, and a video of the idling exhaust with the tail pipes installed.  No one around to rev it for me so that sound bite will have to wait...

Life is good.

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View attachment 20210825_140923.mp4


 
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I just finished up installing a electric fuel pump in the tank last weekend.  It is working great and is very quit.  Small hum when engine is off and un-audible  when the car is running even if you have very mild exhaust.  I will be posting a How To on the install in the next few days. 

 
Removed the pan on the FMX transmission, replaced the filter, cleaned out the pan, reinstalled and refilled with trans fluid. The old oil looked nice and pink so was not worried about all the trans fluid in the torque converter and lines etc.

 
Removed the pan on the FMX transmission, replaced the filter, cleaned out the pan, reinstalled and refilled with trans fluid. The old oil looked nice and pink so was not worried about all the trans fluid in the torque converter and lines etc.
Good job --- I did mine a while back - .. got a mouth full of F type ....YUK ! ! !!  :classic_huh:    pan slipped, ran down arm ... ran into my gaping open face... now Strawberry's taste of Blueberries.  :classic_dry:    WTF ! 

 
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Hahaha.. Yeh I can imagine.. I was prepared and got a big bucket so all the drippings and pan would just drop into it. There was still instances of type F on the floor but not as much as there could have been and fortunately I did not get to taste it..

The best part was the reinstall seems to have gone well with no leaks.

 
I re-installed the center console for the third time.

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I have tried two different batches of SEM interior medium blue paint on my center console but the color was a fair ways off from the rest of the interior and just looked horrible.  I have decided to go black on the console and the contrast seems to work well with my door panels and center gauge stack (I got rid of the fake wood look back in '79).

I'll keep searching for the correct color paint and if I manage to find it I'll try painting the console again.  For the moment though, the two tone blue/black is growing on me...

 
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