What did you do to your car today?

[coilwire]

Finally finished paitning the engine bay.

Jim

 

[sm3570]

Rust Bullet supposed to be here...ordered quarter window wind-down kits from OMS.

 

[mach71351c]

Cut and trimmed battery apron and test fit patch panel.

Wow - I have a replacement apron as well. But I was thinking of replacing the whole panel, rather than just cutting out the bad stuff. I can see where not having to deconstruct the whole front corner would be beneficial and advantageous... but I know I'm not the greatest at patching sheet metal yet so replacing the whole panel will probably work better for me.

What made you choose 'patching' as opposed to 'replacing?' (Just curious here... I'm still not smart enough with body work at this point to know which is actually better for the car)

Looking good so far though.

My battery apron is in great shape other than the rust under battery. Why disturb the factory spot welds around the shock tower and rad support. The repair is down low and the battery will hide any imperfection if any. No need to make a bigger job than it needs to be. Duplicating and drilling out all the spot wields would be so much more work. The repo aprons aren't 100% and can fight you all the way so no point in using more than you need to. mike

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

Cut and trimmed battery apron and test fit patch panel.

Wow - I have a replacement apron as well. But I was thinking of replacing the whole panel, rather than just cutting out the bad stuff. I can see where not having to deconstruct the whole front corner would be beneficial and advantageous... but I know I'm not the greatest at patching sheet metal yet so replacing the whole panel will probably work better for me.

What made you choose 'patching' as opposed to 'replacing?' (Just curious here... I'm still not smart enough with body work at this point to know which is actually better for the car)

Looking good so far though.

My battery apron is in great shape other than the rust under battery. Why disturb the factory spot welds around the shock tower and rad support. The repair is down low and the battery will hide any imperfection if any. No need to make a bigger job than it needs to be. Duplicating and drilling out all the spot wields would be so much more work. The repo aprons aren't 100% and can fight you all the way so no point in using more than you need to. mike

Totally agree... If your original spotweld are still there and the apron shape is what it supposed to be, then dont mess with that

I hate repro body parts all the way and it you can save an inch of original metal sheet you should do it

Besides, changing the hole apron is not going to be easier than do the patch, more if the apron in not going to fit perfect in its place...

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

Not all done today, but been working on her prior to taking out for a test run. Swapped rearend gearings from 3.55 posi to cruising 3.00 gears. Replaced the 750 carb to a 600cfm Edelbrock. Repaced Points to Pertronix ll and Flamethrower ll coil, Re-timed to 14* BTDC. Installed the heat riser tube and charcoal canister burn off tube. Did other things and car runs a lot better and cooler. Starts easier than it did and idles smoother. Was high on the idle rpm when I shot the vids yesterday. Already corrected and sounds much better.

 

[Flatback72]

Not all done today, but been working on her prior to taking out for a test run. Swapped rearend gearings from 3.55 posi to cruising 3.00 gears. Replaced the 750 carb to a 600cfm Edelbrock. Repaced Points to Pertronix ll and Flamethrower ll coil, Re-timed to 14* BTDC. Installed the heat riser tube and charcoal canister burn off tube. Did other things and car runs a lot better and cooler. Starts easier than it did and idles smoother. Was high on the idle rpm when I shot the vids yesterday. Already corrected and sounds much better.

That car is NICE.

Glad to see the limo driver chose not to squish your camera!

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

Not all done today, but been working on her prior to taking out for a test run. Swapped rearend gearings from 3.55 posi to cruising 3.00 gears. Replaced the 750 carb to a 600cfm Edelbrock. Repaced Points to Pertronix ll and Flamethrower ll coil, Re-timed to 14* BTDC. Installed the heat riser tube and charcoal canister burn off tube. Did other things and car runs a lot better and cooler. Starts easier than it did and idles smoother. Was high on the idle rpm when I shot the vids yesterday. Already corrected and sounds much better.

That car is NICE.

Glad to see the limo driver chose not to squish your camera!

I saw the limo and thought "wonder if the memory card would still be good" LOL! Thought for sure it was a goner. Thanks bro!

 

[droptop73]

Cool videos. That was a close call with the camera. I really did like the drive over.

 

[sm3570]

That's a really nice car. Good job!

 

[Mister 4x4]

Wow - I have a replacement apron as well. But I was thinking of replacing the whole panel, rather than just cutting out the bad stuff. I can see where not having to deconstruct the whole front corner would be beneficial and advantageous... but I know I'm not the greatest at patching sheet metal yet so replacing the whole panel will probably work better for me.

What made you choose 'patching' as opposed to 'replacing?' (Just curious here... I'm still not smart enough with body work at this point to know which is actually better for the car)

Looking good so far though.

My battery apron is in great shape other than the rust under battery. Why disturb the factory spot welds around the shock tower and rad support. The repair is down low and the battery will hide any imperfection if any. No need to make a bigger job than it needs to be. Duplicating and drilling out all the spot wields would be so much more work. The repo aprons aren't 100% and can fight you all the way so no point in using more than you need to. mike

Totally agree... If your original spotweld are still there and the apron shape is what it supposed to be, then dont mess with that

I hate repro body parts all the way and it you can save an inch of original metal sheet you should do it

Besides, changing the hole apron is not going to be easier than do the patch, more if the apron in not going to fit perfect in its place...

You both make compelling arguments. I will have to do some thinking now - I was planning on deconstructing and replacing the panel, but you're making me think that patching might be the better way to go.

Not to mention that the leftovers of the repro panel will be more intact which means more usable sheet metal for firewall patching. Hmmm - I think we've just talked me into patching mine as well.

That's why I love this place - lots of great information sharing going on. Thanks again!

Oh yeah - got my steering gear box, cross link, and tie rods mounted up today. The new pitman arm won't come from Advance Auto Parts until the 11th, so I cleaned up and tossed the old one back on for now. Once I get the spindles in she's back on her wheels (which should be next weekend).

I am actually having troubles tracking down a replacement rag joint though. Seems like the only folks with new ones are Advance Auto Parts (Lares P/N 201 and 202 - which fit lots of other applications). Seems like the 202 (power steering coupler) doesn't quite fit right... I'm hoping an exchange for the 201 might make a difference. Otherwise, I'll hafta rebuild the old one with a universal kit.

 

[mach71351c]

My battery apron is in great shape other than the rust under battery. Why disturb the factory spot welds around the shock tower and rad support. The repair is down low and the battery will hide any imperfection if any. No need to make a bigger job than it needs to be. Duplicating and drilling out all the spot wields would be so much more work. The repo aprons aren't 100% and can fight you all the way so no point in using more than you need to.

mike

Totally agree... If your original spotweld are still there and the apron shape is what it supposed to be, then dont mess with that

I hate repro body parts all the way and it you can save an inch of original metal sheet you should do it

Besides, changing the hole apron is not going to be easier than do the patch, more if the apron in not going to fit perfect in its place...

You both make compelling arguments. I will have to do some thinking now - I was planning on deconstructing and replacing the panel, but you're making me think that patching might be the better way to go.

Not to mention that the leftovers of the repro panel will be more intact which means more usable sheet metal for firewall patching. Hmmm - I think we've just talked me into patching mine as well.

That's why I love this place - lots of great information sharing going on. Thanks again!

Oh yeah - got my steering gear box, cross link, and tie rods mounted up today. The new pitman arm won't come from Advance Auto Parts until the 11th, so I cleaned up and tossed the old one back on for now. Once I get the spindles in she's back on her wheels (which should be next weekend).

I am actually having troubles tracking down a replacement rag joint though. Seems like the only folks with new ones are Advance Auto Parts (Lares P/N 201 and 202 - which fit lots of other applications). Seems like the 202 (power steering coupler) doesn't quite fit right... I'm hoping an exchange for the 201 might make a difference. Otherwise, I'll hafta rebuild the old one with a universal kit.

Eric I used left over apron for small patches on cowl and left a-pillar.

 

[luxstang]

Nothing spectacular here. As I had to have the 15 inch wheels on for the inspection a few weeks ago, I finally put the 18 inch rims back on an drove it to work........

 

[goodnigh]

Replaced a couple of door hinge pins and bushings and added a shim to one of the hinges to bring the door into proper alignment. The driver's door was involved in an accident some time in the distant past before I owned the car so the alignment is slightly off. This is a prelude to getting the car ready to paint. Can't wait.

mike

 

[will e]

Went over to Mom's house and started it again. (I was there for other reasons but whenever I drop by I fire the Mustang up). Took some pics too.

 

[akherber]

Used rust stopper on the surface rust in the trunk. Replaced the little rubber bumpers for where the hood closes and readjusted the hood latch and level it out. Rewired the tach so that the wires are hidden tastefully. Searched for the ignition wire from the ignition switch hoping to find a way to bypass the resistor. Checked the alternator. Ordered new seals all around. Ordered a Ram Air kit. Disassembled the center console and cleaned out 40 years of dust, stuff and hair caught in the void, scrubbed the console and replaced. Vacuumed and detailed the interior. Drank a coke, driving down main street Annapolis living the American Dream.

 

[Mr Mac]

I pulled the plugs out to see if the old V8 would spin but got called off to do something else and never got back to it!

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

Cool videos. That was a close call with the camera. I really did like the drive over.

Thanks droptop73! I got the drive over idea from Barrett Jacksons

That's a really nice car. Good job!

Thanks sm3570! 20+ years in the making LOL! Well worth the wait. I appreciate it more and enjoy the cruise.

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

All this patriotism got me all patriotic, so I replaced my blue 8mm spark plug wires for USA made period correct looking 7mm black with orange boots. Not the Autolite reproductions, but they look pretty darn good for $20 shipped from ebay. Car starts right up and that's good enough for me

 

[luxstang]

Tried to install shorter coil springs up front. I already had the 620lbs ones that are supposedly one inch shorter but yesterday I got some of those from a friend who had cut one turn off his. Worked fine for a few weeks, but when he installed the 429 CJ, the car was to low. So he had them laying around.

So, today I tried to swap the coil springs. Got half the job done, because it was more of a PITA than I thought it would be. Took me 3,5 hours to do the passenger side. Half of that time was spent fighting the spring compressor that seems to require at least 3 hands to install! :dodgy:

Tomorrow I´ll tackle the drivers side.

I am a little disappointed though, as the drop is minimal. Definitely not worth the hassle I had to get them in.

I hope the springs will settle a little more with the weight of the car on, as they have only spent about 3 weeks installed under a car and spent the last 4 years on a shelf.

I sure hope they do settle......:dodgy:

 

[Mister 4x4]

Got my spindles in last night - they're awesome. Should get them on and the Rustang back on its wheels sometime this weekend.

Also got the Lares 201 'Rag Joint' steering coupler in as well - I'll need to spread it out just a little, but it should fit on with a little persuasion.