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Ok i didn't do this today but this is how far I have got on re-doing the folding top.

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Now that its cleaned up I will remove and wrap it up for later.

It took a little bit of time to get the seals all aligned.

It appears that the factory slap the frames together then used rubber shims to align the seals.

The white metal part are cast and can't change, but the metal parts are welded together, so i was able to heat and tweek the flat bars slightly to get the alignment right on.

works nice and smooth now!



I put my mach up on jack stands. Then I sat back and looked and looked. I thought to my self, If my jack stands were only chrome.:cool:
Looks good

 
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My neighbor Tony came over (the truck driver) to check on the weekly progress. (Same one with the GM ralley wheels :p) Don't tell him about the cats and the sand! Anyway, started on the interior of the car media blasting and wished to god I had a rotissary(spelling?).

 
It escaped the garage. :)

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Ok i didn't do this today but this is how far I have got on re-doing the folding top.

Now that its cleaned up I will remove and wrap it up for later.

It took a little bit of time to get the seals all aligned.

It appears that the factory slap the frames together then used rubber shims to align the seals.

The white metal part are cast and can't change, but the metal parts are welded together, so i was able to heat and tweek the flat bars slightly to get the alignment right on.

works nice and smooth now!



I put my mach up on jack stands. Then I sat back and looked and looked. I thought to my self, If my jack stands were only chrome.:cool:
Looks good
Thanks Marc. Nice job on frame.



It lives. : )

 
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I didn't take pics yesterday.. just wanted to get the car done and drive it! :)

Here is phase 1 for the engine and engine bay redo:

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I'm using a duraspark distributor to trigger MSD digital 6AL, and Taylor Thundervolt 8.2 wires.

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Fixed my car for a record $0.. The steering was all jacked up and I couldn't figure it out, turns out the camber eccentric bolts were loose.. the wheels were flopping around when I was turning lol.

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Back to fine tuning, driving and saving for my turbo setup :)

 
Worked on the brakes a little more:mad: actually think the brake fairy showed up during the night because today when we arrived I changed some lines that we had swapped yesterday. Out of habit pushed the pedal and we had somewhat of a brake :huh: so at least its starting to look promising. But on the down side of that I noticed a tennis ball size spot where the brake fluid has eaten threw the paint in me engine bay:mad: O'well if I get brakes that will be worth it

 
Fired it up and took the previous owner for a spin. When I bought the car 25 plus years ago from my girlfriends girlfriend it had purple window tint and fake wire wheel hubcaps. It's come a long way. Well, I married my girlfriend and her friend was visiting from Switzerland so it was a good excuse to take it out. She smiled and laughed the whole time as I would sping the tires around corners and such...

 
Took the D/A with 80 grit to some parts tonight and OSPHO'd them. Plan to primer them tomorrow.
If you plan on using epoxy primer (and you should be using epoxy) your going to have a problem..OSPHO contains acid & that acid must be neutralized.. Why would you want to take a part thats been taken down to bare metal and apply this product based on a "local's advice" ? It's just asking for trouble ! When your finish delamanates is he going to come over & redo all your hard work ? Sand that junk off...& give the bottle to him as a present !

The correct procedure is to d.a. with 80..wipe with wax & grease remover..let sit 1 hour then prime. It should all be done in the same day. In other words don't let your parts sit over night after there 80-ed..Here's a cut & paste from the ospho instructions

"This metal treatment works best with oil based paints and primers. Be sure to test before using with epoxy or latex paints. Suitable for use indoors or out."

Seems to me ospho is a product made for home owners painting there steel railings or rusted stuff around the home..Not restorers spending countless hours & $$$$ doing their cars.

Here's the correct way !

http://www.youtube.com/user/fuzzenut#p/u/44/hRs4t2OoLcE

 
Took the D/A with 80 grit to some parts tonight and OSPHO'd them. Plan to primer them tomorrow.
If you plan on using epoxy primer (and you should be using epoxy) your going to have a problem..OSPHO contains acid & that acid must be neutralized.. Why would you want to take a part thats been taken down to bare metal and apply this product based on a "local's advice" ? It's just asking for trouble ! When your finish delamanates is he going to come over & redo all your hard work ? Sand that junk off...& give the bottle to him as a present !

The correct procedure is to d.a. with 80..wipe with wax & grease remover..let sit 1 hour then prime. It should all be done in the same day. In other words don't let your parts sit over night after there 80-ed..Here's a cut & paste from the ospho instructions

"This metal treatment works best with oil based paints and primers. Be sure to test before using with epoxy or latex paints. Suitable for use indoors or out."

Seems to me ospho is a product made for home owners painting there steel railings or rusted stuff around the home..Not restorers spending countless hours & $$$$ doing their cars.

Here's the correct way !

http://www.youtube.com/user/fuzzenut#p/u/44/hRs4t2OoLcE

+1000


The best body work advice ever comes from this guy! Thanks Scott for all your advice and lessons!
:udaman:

 
Did the same as most of you guys (staring at newly painted silver body in my garage). I've been occupied remodeling my wife's kitchen waiting for the summer to leave & fall to arrive. Man, it has been hot down here in New Orleans. I hope to get the rest of my parts (hood, trunk, etc.) from the painter in the next week or so. The rear suspension is ready to put in & I just ordered my front end components. I hope to have a rolling complete body(shell) by the end of the year.

High "O" silver, away!

Jimmy T.

 
Trunk lid is back from paint, still a little soft to drill. Not sure why he did not redrill it before paint but o'well will do it in a week or so.
If my memory is correct, didn't you have this same shoulda drilled before paint problem before with your trunk lid?

 
Trunk lid is back from paint, still a little soft to drill. Not sure why he did not redrill it before paint but o'well will do it in a week or so.
If my memory is correct, didn't you have this same shoulda drilled before paint problem before with your trunk lid?
No, Who ever installed the spoiler before I bought the car installed it backwards:mad: so during rip and strip mode it was not discovered until we went to reinstall the spoiler years later

 
Resanded my floor pan and the half of the front bumper support I screwed up on last night after Qcode351mach's advice. Decided I should wait until I have enough parts ready to primer to save time and money after seeing his video. Thanks Q!!

 
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