What did you do to your car today?

[Mister 4x4]

Got my frame crossmember from NPD #10780-2A $119 w/shipping perfect fit. Don from OMS pointed me there and my son made it a christmas gift.

Sweet! Thanks Mark!

Eric, you have a real timepiece there! That car has seen alot of life!!

You ain't kidding. The sad thing is that all the R.E. damage & repairs seem to have happened within the first 10 years of its life. The registration and inspection stickers still on the car both say "1980." After that, I think the poor car had just given up and was parked (probably in a river based on all the rust).

 

[Qcode351mach]

Got my frame crossmember from NPD #10780-2A $119 w/shipping perfect fit. Don from OMS pointed me there and my son made it a christmas gift.

Eric thats the rear crossmember against the rear body..Not the shock crossmember.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Got my frame crossmember from NPD #10780-2A $119 w/shipping perfect fit. Don from OMS pointed me there and my son made it a christmas gift.

Eric thats the rear crossmember against the rear body..Not the shock crossmember.

I know - I just figured instead of trying to preserve the one that's still on there, I can save a bunch of time by just taking it out with the tail light panel, since I have to cut the tail light panel just to get the trunk pan in there anyway. Don't worry though - I'm still not planning on cutting anything major until the new sheet metal arrives, as you suggested. (Even though that means waiting 'til next weekend, which is fine - I think the shop's possibly still going to be open on the weekends, last I heard)

Right now, I'm working on the 'new improved R.E.' shock mount, since I'm pretty sure getting a new shock mount cross member isn't going to be possible. I'm also going to stuff the new leaf springs and other rear suspension up under there and finish cleaning up the frame rails while I'm at it.

Thanks for lookin' over my shoulder just the same - means a lot knowing I've got such good support (even from afar)!

 

[marks73]

We've got ya covered!

 

[Qcode351mach]

Got my frame crossmember from NPD #10780-2A $119 w/shipping perfect fit. Don from OMS pointed me there and my son made it a christmas gift.

Eric thats the rear crossmember against the rear body..Not the shock crossmember.

I know - I just figured instead of trying to preserve the one that's still on there, I can save a bunch of time by just taking it out with the tail light panel, since I have to cut the tail light panel just to get the trunk pan in there anyway. Don't worry though - I'm still not planning on cutting anything major until the new sheet metal arrives, as you suggested. (Even though that means waiting 'til next weekend, which is fine - I think the shop's possibly still going to be open on the weekends, last I heard)

Right now, I'm working on the 'new improved R.E.' shock mount, since I'm pretty sure getting a new shock mount cross member isn't going to be possible. I'm also going to stuff the new leaf springs and other rear suspension up under there and finish cleaning up the frame rails while I'm at it.

Thanks for lookin' over my shoulder just the same - means a lot knowing I've got such good support (even from afar)!

Eric..I would be inclined to use this (if it's in the budget) & modify as required..Gonna save a bunch of time

http://www.cjponyparts.com/product.aspx?p=RSMP&utm_source=google&utm_medium=merchant&utm_campaign=shopping

 

[71_badmach]

And, as for the comment of removing the tail panel to change the trunk floor, they didn't do that when I had mine done. Now that I think about it, maybe the only way they could get the panel in there was because my package tray has been hacked up and isn't there...

 

[vamach1]

Took of the left rear tire (had a screw in it and was flat) of the Mach1. Off to the tire repair shop tomorrow.

 

[jtassin]

I have had the whole week off. Since Christmas, I've installed front bumper, grill, upper & lower control arms, new coil springs, front shocks, springs, front stabilizer bar, and few other small items. It's been the best vacation I had in a long time. Will post some pictures soon. It has taken 5 years to get to this stage. So guys be patient.

Jimmy T.

 

[Valhallo]

I made myself a silicone injector to get between the weatherstrip channel and body to where the foam is leaking. JB weld, a medicine syrenge and a ball pump needle.

 

[sm3570]

Almost done with the carb install and some of the other engine bay odds and ends. Tomorrow I need to install a new vacuum line, hook up the electric choke and put the new wheel adapters on. Then it's a drive to the body shops for quotes!

 

[marks73]

Spent the day working on the rear frame repairs. Measured, verified, checked level, pulled a string to measure again, wrote a book of measurements. Said Hell! cut the crap out. Placed the rear frame cross member. Verified center of the rear spring with the new rails with a set up I made out of 1/2" all thread and the spring bushings to be sure I had center. Hope to put it together tomorrow.

 

[Mister 4x4]

SWEET, Mark! Lookin' Awesome!

Yesterday, I blew threw 2 stripping wheels in the quest for clean metal on the frame rails. Does everybody go through those things as fast as I do? You know, the ones that looks like a plastic-coated hairball on a drill bit? LOL! The wire brushes aresn't even touching this stuff under mine.

I also spent a few minutes filing smooth and polishing the raised emblems on the intake manifold I got for Christmas. Hey - it's all about the details, right?

Today I spent the day unf00king the R.E. upper shock mounts and coming up with a new solution. I also ordered a new trunk brace (like Mark's) from NPD and decided to hold off on any more sheet metal trimming until it shows up

Here's the bracket I made out of angle stock. I cut off one side to make it flat, and bent the crap out of it using a BFH and the vise. After bunches of measuring and test-fitting, I finally got it into the shape I wanted and mocked it up with the shocks (and remembered why it's a good idea to leave the straps on while mounting them - Whew!). Gonna weld the edge closest to the cross-member to the cross-member, and also the edges in the pockets around where the shocks mount up. Whaddaya think?

Since the middle doesn't lay flat against the cross-member (I decided not to push my luck), I zipped off a piece of the battery apron leftovers and made a little support bracket for the edge that's just hanging out there. (sorry about the crappy auto-focus of my old camera)

Still gotta trim up the bashed in stock shock mount holes and clean it all up before I zap it all down, but I think it should work out. Passenger side:

Driver side:

Now my question is: should I paint the old school Lakewood traction bars the original yellow, or just go with black?

 

[droptop73]

I'd go with black. Never did like the various colors of chassis parts.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I'd go with black. Never did like the various colors of chassis parts.

Yeah - that was my thought as well. After I 'blast 'em, I'll use up some more of that 'bottomless' gallon of Rust Bullet Black Shell. That stuff's the shiznit, for sure!

 

[Qcode351mach]

Spent the day working on the rear frame repairs. Measured, verified, checked level, pulled a string to measure again, wrote a book of measurements. Said Hell! cut the crap out. Placed the rear frame cross member. Verified center of the rear spring with the new rails with a set up I made out of 1/2" all thread and the spring bushings to be sure I had center. Hope to put it together tomorrow.

Mark..How are you intending to weld the new rails on ? 2 Options..If you butt weld..you need to fish plate with a scrap section of the new rail that gets cut off & inserted INSIDE the rail over spaning the joint on both sides..See the last vid I just did that shows how a fish plate workshttp://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-mustang-progress-video..Or you can leave a 1.5" section on the new rail that you can relive so it slides into the inner of the old rail..Ether way..You need a continuous bead around the entire joint. Pick your poison. The other measurement you must verify which is crucial is the distance from the front leaf spring hanger bolt center to the rear leaf spring shackle bolt center. It should be on your chart..Screw that up & the car will never drive right !! Nor will your trunk floor fit right.2 Key measurements come into play here besides all the other stuff you did which looks good..& they both MUST be right!! The height of the rear rail as per the chart off the Datum line & the distance /span of the leaf spring mounting points one affects the other..Look at your chart carefully..

I'd go with black. Never did like the various colors of chassis parts.

Yeah - that was my thought as well. After I 'blast 'em, I'll use up some more of that 'bottomless' gallon of Rust Bullet Black Shell. That stuff's the shiznit, for sure!

::thumb::

 

[Mister 4x4]

I don't know. Looking at the pictures of the thing I came up with today, I'm starting to think that I don't really like it. I mean, it looks like it'll work and everything, but it also looks kinda like a Hill-Billy hack-job - which is what I'm trying to repair in the first place. I'm also sitting here thinking, "What would Scott do?" (And oddly enough, I feel kinda like I let my Dad down or something even coming up with an idea like this - and that just seems weird on a level). LOL!

Problem is, I have no idea how to repair the cross member without tearing the whole thing apart and I just don't have that kind of time right now. I'm already behind schedule in getting the major things done not knowing if the shop will be available even next weekend or not.

I think maybe I could just open up the bottoms of the cross member tomorrow and weld in some small plates for the shocks to mount to, then close everything back up. At least it won't "look" as ghetto, eh? But it'll probably take a good chunk of the day to do that.

Help me out here - I'm already not going to get the trunk or cowl damage done before the end of the day tomorrow anyway. Should I zap down what I have, install the new rear suspension (clean the rest of the axle later when I rebuild it), and maybe have time to drop in the engine and tranny? Or come up with a new solution and probably not get something else done?

I'm on the fence... this isn't going to be a 100-point show car, by any means, but I also don't want more R.E. hacker jobs either.

 

[71_badmach]

Hey Eric, I'm no body or structural man (yet), but to me what you came up with has got to be stronger than what was there, or original for that matter. As long as you can get it attached to the crossmember for no movement, I think I'd go with it.

But, like you, I'd probably step back and ponder before going too far. Dunno, guess I'm just trying to offer some moral support...

 

[Don65Stang]

Yeah I'm scratching my head on how to make it work or if anything off my parts cars could be used to help out.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Hey Guys - I appreciate your opinions and thanks for the words of encouragement. That's also a very generous offer, Don. Much appreciated.

But now I got more pondering to do. I just chatted with Scott and saw the thread where he pointed out that the cross-member for a '69-70 could be used to repair that damage.

Now, I gotta wonder even more what to do. That part wouldn't be here til next weekend as well - and the status of my shop availability is still up in the air.

I think I'm going to order the part, tack in what I have for now, change the rear suspension, and get the engine & tranny dropped in - thinking along the lines of bringing it home. If the shop's going to stay open, I can always take it all apart next weekend and 'do it right.' If it's not going to be open - well, at least I have the rear suspension, engine, and tranny in so I can bring it home if I must. My neighbor works at the local steelworks plant (i.e., tons of welding gear), and I guess I could bug him for some welding help (and bribe him with a case of beer as well).

 

[marks73]

Spent the day working on the rear frame repairs. Measured, verified, checked level, pulled a string to measure again, wrote a book of measurements. Said Hell! cut the crap out. Placed the rear frame cross member. Verified center of the rear spring with the new rails with a set up I made out of 1/2" all thread and the spring bushings to be sure I had center. Hope to put it together tomorrow.

Mark..How are you intending to weld the new rails on ? 2 Options..If you butt weld..you need to fish plate with a scrap section of the new rail that gets cut off & inserted INSIDE the rail over spaning the joint on both sides..See the last vid I just did that shows how a fish plate workshttp://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-mustang-progress-video..Or you can leave a 1.5" section on the new rail that you can relive so it slides into the inner of the old rail..Ether way..You need a continuous bead around the entire joint. Pick your poison. The other measurement you must verify which is crucial is the distance from the front leaf spring hanger bolt center to the rear leaf spring shackle bolt center. It should be on your chart..Screw that up & the car will never drive right !! Nor will your trunk floor fit right.2 Key measurements come into play here besides all the other stuff you did which looks good..& they both MUST be right!! The height of the rear rail as per the chart off the Datum line & the distance /span of the leaf spring mounting points one affects the other..Look at your chart carefully..

I'd go with black. Never did like the various colors of chassis parts.

Yeah - that was my thought as well. After I 'blast 'em, I'll use up some more of that 'bottomless' gallon of Rust Bullet Black Shell. That stuff's the shiznit, for sure!

::thumb::

After giving it some thought, I think I'm going to opt for the 1-1/2 insert. I'm thinking it may be stronger. Originally we were going to weld about 2in plates over the outside of the sides and bottom (wasn't worried about looks was worried about strength). Got a call into Don for another rail.