What did you do to your car today?

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Before and after of both rear torque boxes. I got new rear floor pan extensions for a 68-70 it fits perfectly in the 71. I don't care about the contour lines not being perfect. It nice to see new floor pans in the mustang! All I need to do now is modify those seat platforms that CJ Pony Parts says is for a coupe/fastback.

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I got to drive it around a bit. It's parked at my MIL's house (so I can keep it in a garage). We visted there today. I took it for a spin even though it is almost 110 outside today. I like to get a few miles on it every month or two just to keep the fluids moving. I forget how fun of a car it is to drive. whoo hoo!

 
Looks good! But you may want to turn up the heat on your welder just a touch. Some of the spot welds look like they are not burnt in deep enough. Just sitting on top of the metal. Keep up the good work man!!

Before and after of both rear torque boxes. I got new rear floor pan extensions for a 68-70 it fits perfectly in the 71. I don't care about the contour lines not being perfect. It nice to see new floor pans in the mustang! All I need to do now is modify those seat platforms that CJ Pony Parts says is for a coupe/fastback.

2wg9pb8.jpg
28v4yae.jpg
k0ivjo.jpg
xfrr84.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Before and after of both rear torque boxes. I got new rear floor pan extensions for a 68-70 it fits perfectly in the 71. I don't care about the contour lines not being perfect. It nice to see new floor pans in the mustang! All I need to do now is modify those seat platforms that CJ Pony Parts says is for a coupe/fastback.
Click to expand...
The repop seat platforms are a bit taller. Others here cut them to reduce the height. My approach was to "flatten" them. I made some relief cuts in the flange to facilitate flattening. It worked very well. They ended up only about 1/4" or less taller than stock, but since I am shorter this works for me. You could flatten them more if you want. The only caveat is that as it flattens the legs spread and they dont end up being in the stock location. However, it is barely noticeable. Mine were easy to fit and weld in place with some persuation. I basically had to put my weight on the platform with my knees as I welded it in place.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 
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Had the battery tray and apron welded in.

Fitted aftermarket seatbelts temporarily

Will post pics when car comes back

TO DO for MOT

Rebuild carb(Newly identified issue)

Indicators wiring up :D

I can see the finishing line

 
Received the Battery Cable kit and installed it. Connected the accessory feed wires and began installing the High Torque starter that came so highly praised. The Red, constant power wire that came with it was about a foot too long, so I cut the supplied terminal off, shortened the wire length, put a new blade connector on and added shrink tube to the outside. My job looks better than the suppliers and is installing very nicely.

Discovered that I need to go buy longer starter bolts to bolt that starter up though.

It's always something!!!

kcmash

 
Made up my LCA stiffener plates and put the curve in them. Then mocked up a new shift lever design for the T5 to shorten the throw and make it easier to reach.
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Can you share the mock up? Ended up using a burst lever on mine to make it "reachable"
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You bet. I will place the template I made on some engineering paper tonight and take a pic and post it.

 
Had the battery tray and apron welded in.

Fitted aftermarket seatbelts temporarily

Will post pics when car comes back

TO DO for MOT

Rebuild carb(Newly identified issue)

Indicators wiring up :D

I can see the finishing line
Click to expand...
Carb rebuild kit in hand. Should be done by the weekend.

Hope my car don't throw any more problems at me. I sometimes think she is stubborn and don't want ressurecting from the dead :)

As there are so many very very helpful members on this forum i have decided once my car is roadworthy and registered i am going to tackle some of the jobs in the future.

 
Made up my LCA stiffener plates and put the curve in them. Then mocked up a new shift lever design for the T5 to shorten the throw and make it easier to reach.
Click to expand...
Cool... curious if you had some issues with the standard LCA that led you to reinforcing it. I just installed a new Moog LCA. I guess you can do something similar with the UCA.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 
I've never been a big plan of stamped steel parts on the suspension of a muscle car, they tend to flex more than one thinks. Especially with the way these are designed with the strut rod mounting points. I did not want to get into the cost of a full tubular set up either. So the stiffener plates were the way I chose to go.

 
I looked at my car today and said amazing how much crap I went thru so far to do it right. I am glad I still have it. 1971 Mustang Mach one 351 4v, ram air, power steering, power brakes, four speed, mach one interior, instrumentation group, conveince group, rim blow, rear spoiler, tilt wheel, center console, fold down rear seat, tinted glass, power windows, 325 limited slip rear end, am 8 track. options I am adding. rear window defrost, deluxe seat belts, a/c, magnum 500, side stripes. The car was 4600.00 new in 1971

 

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