Yellow Mach 1 is back again!

[jpaz]

It goes on the back end by the firewall.

 

[Stanglover]

Kevin, fantastic work!! you asked about the power steering pressure hose insulator sleeve Don at OMS

has them.

https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=2927

And the  bracket the hose runs through over the left shock tower brace has this insulator.

https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/ford-mustang-power-steering-hose-bracket-insulator-412554.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid_search&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&adpos=1o2&scid=scplp44-41324-1&sc_intid=44-41324-1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6rXO9v_d4AIVgxx9Ch0eKQmCEAQYAiABEgLYk_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 Thanks from me too on the link to OMS. I need to replace mine as it's breaking up.

Good eye to notice the bracket insulator was missing too.

 Geoff.

 

[turtle5353]

It goes on the back end by the firewall.

Thanks John, That looks great!!   Got one question for ya. Did you use factory correct battery cables??  I bought the factory repops and they look great but I am confused about battery location. My car has the positive terminal facing to back of car. This car also has it facing to back. Your car has it facing the front as do others I have seen.  Do you know if different years had the battery oriented different way?? The cables I bought would not allow the positive terminal to reach the fron of the car if battery was swapped around.

 

[Stanglover]

The "overhang" over the brace can be shortened by just pulling it all forward a bit. With the insulator in the bracket, it will hold it where it should be. I missed this detail in the pics and that's why I thought it was too long.

Unfortunately to install the sleeve, the hose will have to be removed from one end. Sorry for stating the obvious.

 

[Stanglover]

If I can chime in, here's a pic of my battery. It's just a stock replacement with a cap on it for looks. the cables are the "concours" correct ones.

 

[turtle5353]

If I can chime in, here's a pic of my battery. It's just a stock replacement with a cap on it for looks. the cables are the "concours" correct ones.

Thanks. That's probably same kit I bought.  Another question , is that how the negative is supposed to run?? Over the top like that?  I wasn't sure because the car I'm working on had different cables for ground. I ran the negative under the battery tray and brought it up in front of the battery behind headlight bucket to hide it.

 

[Stanglover]

If I can chime in, here's a pic of my battery. It's just a stock replacement with a cap on it for looks. the cables are the "concours" correct ones.

Thanks. That's probably same kit I bought.  Another question , is that how the negative is supposed to run?? Over the top like that?  I wasn't sure because the car I'm working on had different cables for ground. I ran the negative under the battery tray and brought it up in front of the battery behind headlight bucket to hide it.

 As these are 'supposed' to be Concours cables, the length of the neg cable sorta wanted to go that way and as it was out of the way there, that's where I installed it.

 Your neg cable should have a ground connection bracket that fits under the corner of the regulator and that puts it about where mine is. The ground connection can just be seen at base of the reg.Hope that helps.

 

[turtle5353]

If I can chime in, here's a pic of my battery. It's just a stock replacement with a cap on it for looks. the cables are the "concours" correct ones.

Thanks. That's probably same kit I bought.  Another question , is that how the negative is supposed to run?? Over the top like that?  I wasn't sure because the car I'm working on had different cables for ground. I ran the negative under the battery tray and brought it up in front of the battery behind headlight bucket to hide it.

 As these are 'supposed' to be Concours cables, the length of the neg cable sorta wanted to go that way and as it was out of the way there, that's where I installed it.

 Your neg cable should have a ground connection bracket that fits under the corner of the regulator and that puts it about where mine is. The ground connection can just be seen at base of the reg.Hope that helps.

Ok makes sense. I put the ground tab bracket on a bolt under the battery tray instead of under the regulator. Seemed to hide it better. I didn't have any reference to go by.  thanks for the info.

 

[Stanglover]

Kevin, glad to be of assistance. That's what this is all about, helping each other.

Geoff.

 

[jpaz]

It goes on the back end by the firewall.

Thanks John, That looks great!!   Got one question for ya. Did you use factory correct battery cables??  I bought the factory repops and they look great but I am confused about battery location. My car has the positive terminal facing to back of car. This car also has it facing to back. Your car has it facing the front as do others I have seen.  Do you know if different years had the battery oriented different way?? The cables I bought would not allow the positive terminal to reach the fron of the car if battery was swapped around.

No, my battery is not correct. It is the one that was in the car when I bought it. Positive cable should be in back, just like Geoff’s. Looks like you guys have it figured out. When my battery dies I will get it back to the correct way. 

Anyway, everything looks great and the owner should be very happy with all your attention to detail.

 

[turtle5353]

Got carb set today and the timing.  Fires right up and sounds great.  Also got some of the body work finish sanded today. Will start taping it off to do the touch ups.  Should be finished by next weekend hopefully!!!

 

[Stanglover]

Could be a "Show Winner" now!!!

Again very nice work and very well worth it.

Geoff.

 

[rio1856]

OUTSTANDING!! SIR!!!

 

[jpaz]

Hope it’s got good hood hinges! They will definitely be getting a good workout from opening the hood to show off engine. Looks really nice, and again great work!

 

[turtle5353]

Got the hood back on today and cleaned garage. Scrubbed the floor to get ready to do the paint touch ups this week. 

 

[Fabrice]

Excellent work. Looks like someone will be very happy very soon.

Thx for posting that often, one of my fav threads!

 

[turtle5353]

Thanks for the input fellas. Been working on it for about a month and it has come a long way. I have close to 90 man hours in it. I am not charging him for the paint work on the body just in pulling motor and detailing everything you guys have seen in this thread. He will probably have around $2700 in labor alone. Do you guys think that’s a fair price for this level of work?? Just curious what you guys think. I think that’s well below the going rate for most actual “shops”.

 

[Fabrice]

30 an hour for this kind of specialism & results is really not expensive, at least from a European point of view.

If I would hire a guy to paint my house, I'd pay 30-35 dollars an hour.. a "regular" mechanic is 40-70 euros an hour.

So if I would want to hire a specialist, and get results better than expectation like you do, It likely would be more expensive.

I don't know what is "fair" in the states, but I'm pretty sure you are in that segment.

Bigger shops have other costs that you don't have, so they have to have margins. You can't really compare.

If you'd be just a tad bellow shops costs, may be some would rather go to a shop, to have this fake feeling of warranty.

As a freelancer, I totally get you. I think you just need to ask yourself if you are happy with what you charge for the work done.

You might (and will) also get more to do if you continue on this quality path. You can always "adjust" as you go.

But for this baby, what you charge is worth every pennies for sure.

 

[Don C]

Because shops have to include overhead (insurance, taxes, rent or mortgage, equipment, payroll taxes, etc), plus the hourly wage rate, a shop with good employees will likely charge in the $125 to $150 range.

 

[NOT A T5]

Shops charge $100 around here but you don't know what you're going to get. Excellent work of yours by the way, Outstanding and worth every penny!