Jump to content

MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)


Recommended Posts

Progress is moving along very slooowly. With vacation, work, surgery, toasty garage, etc, not much time. The crankshaft is in after I needed to replace the main bearings for STDX bearings to gain a little more clearance. Now I am at between 0.0025" and 0.0030" with Plastigage. Gaped the rings and now I am working with the rods. After I installed all of them, the second to last (off course!) was way too tight. I realized that the halves were mismatched. I rematched the rod and "feels" good but I have to Plastigage it to make sure. That's my next task, but I can't do much strength until I recover, which means two more weeks of very little work. After the rods/pistons are installed then it will be time for the cam and timing gear. Then the heads. The heads already have the valves installed. So I have to install the rocker studs and rod guides. I need to figure out how to properly located the guides since there is some play. After all that then have some fun with an adjustable push rod to setup the optimum rod length and order the right set of push rods.

I was originally hoping to be driving the car in July. Now I realized that was more of a dream. Now I am just hoping to drive it this summer. Perhaps at the end of August.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Here are some pictures to update my thread. I am slowly working on assembling the 408 stroker.

 

Cam in.

20180530_235513.jpg

 

King bearings. I ended up using the STDX bearings instead of the pictured STD. The X are 0.001 thinner to allow for a 0.001 larger clearance.

20180530_235857.jpg

 

Crank in

20180531_001143.jpg

 

Rods and pistons in.

20180801_222006.jpg

 

Pistons in. All clearances and gaps checked.

20180801_222020.jpg

 

Roller rockers and retrofit kit.

20180808_225758.jpg

 

Cam thrust plate, timing chain in, cam degreed.

20180801_221936.jpg

 

Oil pan, water pump, timing cover and harmonic balancer in.

20180808_225829.jpg

 

Head studs and gasket in proper orientation.

20180810_001238.jpg

 

Preassembled heads, guide plates, testing for push rod length while priming pump (hence oil pressure gauge)

20180814_211954.jpg

 

View of intake valve through port.

20180814_212144.jpg

 

Engine close to being ready for testing. I am waiting for the push rods so the covers are just in place for the picture.

20180815_221721.jpg

 

It finally looks like an engine!

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are those standard height valve covers? If so I think you are going to have an issue once you get all of the rocker arms installed. My ford motorsports covers did not fit and I had to go with a tall valve cover.

 

Also, not sure what you are using for valve cover gaskets but I went with these and they are great since you can reuse them after you adjust your rockers.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1682

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are those standard height valve covers? If so I think you are going to have an issue once you get all of the rocker arms installed. My ford motorsports covers did not fit and I had to go with a tall valve cover.

 

Also, not sure what you are using for valve cover gaskets but I went with these and they are great since you can reuse them after you adjust your rockers.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1682

 

So far the one rocker I have on with the adjustable push rod fits, but I will have to double check.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good!! I like to see how the valve covers play out.

 

I am glad to report that the valve covers fit, but with a slight modification. One of the baffles below the PVC opening was hitting a rocker. It was a simple matter of slightly hammering the baffle away from the rocker. I rotated the engine a couple times without the gasket on and did not hear any interference.  With the gasket on you gain more clearance, which gives me a peace of mind. The real test will be when I start the engine.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW, after testing the valve covers. I was wrapping up for the night and I placed some masking tape on the plug holes for protection. I got distracted with other things and then thought of turning the engine couple more times to double check. While turning I hear this noise but it didn't seem to be metal-to-metal. I was like crazy going over stuff and then I thought of the tape. Long and behold, when I check the plugs the tape was missing from #8. I didn't find it anywhere. I was like "oh shut..." I took the snake camera that I can connect to my cell phone to see inside and there it was. The piece of tape got sucked into the cylinder. After a little bit of manipulation, a thin screw driver and long nose pliers I was able to take it out. That was scary for a moment..... Although an embarrassing situation, I am sharing it here so it doesn't happen to someone else. Obvious lesson learned: don't "plug" the plug holes with something that could get sucked in while turning the engine!

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good and like me bet you can't wait to drive it

Did you have any issues with the rocker stud length using Scorpion rockers?

I ended up with a 2.100 stud and a .120 washer but perhaps my valve length was oversize

P1030238.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good and like me bet you can't wait to drive it

Did you have any issues with the rocker stud length using Scorpion rockers?

I ended up with a 2.100 stud and a .120 washer but perhaps my valve length was oversize

 

Yeah... I can't wait. If all goes well I should be able to start the engine outside the car next week.

 

The studs were on the short side. I was able to use the 1.9" studs with a 1/8 washer on top of the guides. That gave me 8+ turns of engagement. There was one cylinder, #4, where something was different and the rocker adjustment nut was higher and I got 6+ turns. All the valve stems are at the same height, so I can only guess that the machining of the rocker "pedestal" was a bit different.

 

What size of push rods did you end up using? Mine are 7.9". I could have use a bit longer which would have moved the rocker up and decrease the engagement so we decided to stick with the 7.9". The wear mark was slightly off center, but still was acceptable.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ended up with 8.100 pushrods and used 2 methods to determine height, both spot on

I have a custom Jones hydraulic roller and using his lifters so a bit of an unknown combo hence all the trouble with rocker studs

P1030238.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Theres nothing more satisfying than watching a bunch of metal parts become a engine

 

Agreed! It is satisfying to see the bunch of parts become and engine. The next step is to see the bunch of parts make the engine function, which hopefully will happen this week. And then, the final satisfaction will be when I see the bunch of parts moving the car.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Tremec behind this baby should give you a dream team. Its gonna be a fantastic ride for sure.

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey...

Sharp car there!!!

Hi Tim.... welcome to the forum.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am proud to say that I tested the engine and run great. The only issue I had during testing was with the old carburetor. Silly me thinking that I could use an old carburetor that has been sitting for two years. The secondaries float was not sealing so gasoline kept flooding. I ended up capping the gas supply to the secondaries so I can test the engine. Since I had no radiator I ran it for a short time until the thermostat opened. I was so busy taking care of stuff during that time that I forgot to shoot a video.

 

One issue I noticed after the test was that while turning the engine by hand I kept hearing this grinding noise. It worried me for a while until I figured out it was the flywheel rubbing against the engine back plate (block plate). I have read about this in the past, but I have forgotten. Because the oil pan sticks out slightly at back it doesn't allow the back plate to sit flush causing it to rub against the flywheel. Now I just have to remove the flywheel and grind a smiley face on the back plate so it sits flush. I had installed the flywheel bolts with red Loctite so it will be fun.

 

I drained the oil and looked very good. The filter had fine metal particles mixed with the oil but I think this is expected.

 

Now I start the long journey to get the engine in the car, connect accessories and assemble to the new transmission and clutch.

 

Edit: here I posted a picture of the test setup: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-diy-engine-test-setup

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a suggestion on putting the beast back in. Put it in with the trans attached and all the front accessories. so much easier. Also slide the drivers side header roughly into place and tie it up. Makes header install much easier. Me and one other person did mine this way and we went from on the engine stand to up and running in less than 1 hr.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+ 1 on installing engine/trans together

I tried to install with both headers on but had to remove one to get it in

Lowering the front of the car and raising the back made it easier too

Good luck with the install and hopefully you will post a video when running

P1030238.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you get your hands on a load leveler, it was helpfull when I put mine in with the tko . Once in we switched to a lift plate and a floor jack under the trans. To get the headers in and mounts bolted up. It went very smooth. Getting everything else done in the engine compartment done has been slow. We built a new house and moved in may. Just getting going on the mustang again. One thing I can say is vintage air/aeroquip e z fittings and hose are a super nice way to do the a/c. Good luck getting it all together!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am proud to say that I tested the engine and run great. The only issue I had during testing was with the old carburetor. Silly me thinking that I could use an old carburetor that has been sitting for two years. The secondaries float was not sealing so gasoline kept flooding. I ended up capping the gas supply to the secondaries so I can test the engine. Since I had no radiator I ran it for a short time until the thermostat opened. I was so busy taking care of stuff during that time that I forgot to shoot a video.

 

One issue I noticed after the test was that while turning the engine by hand I kept hearing this grinding noise. It worried me for a while until I figured out it was the flywheel rubbing against the engine back plate (block plate). I have read about this in the past, but I have forgotten. Because the oil pan sticks out slightly at back it doesn't allow the back plate to sit flush causing it to rub against the flywheel. Now I just have to remove the flywheel and grind a smiley face on the back plate so it sits flush. I had installed the flywheel bolts with red Loctite so it will be fun.

 

 

 

Here is the block plate after being ground against the flywheel:

20180831_132143.jpg

 

 

Here is the flywheel:

20180831_132151.jpg

 

Since the block plate is aluminum and the flywheel is steel, there was very little damage to the flywheel. What I think it happened is that the heat generated started melting the aluminum and breaking it into the flywheel. A soft touch with the flap wheel took care of it. It now looks shiny with little to no steel material removed.

 

I now ground a groove on the block plate to allow for a flat fit of the bellhousing. Today I will test for flatness.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While aligning the bellhousing I am finding that the parallel measurement is off by 5 thousands. The limit is 2 thousands. I am measuring this by attaching the dial indicator to the flywheel rotating the needle against the back face of the bell. I checked the mating surfaces for damage and all looks good. I am purchasing some round shims to put around the bolts to try improving the parallelism.

The bore (or concentric) alignment was at the high limit of 10 thousands TIR, but once the bellhousing is more parallel this measurement should improve. The bore alignment is done by rotating the needle of the dial indicator against the bore as the flywheel rotates.

This has taken a lot of time and a lot of removing of the bell and flywheel, but I am doing my best to get it within tolerance.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While aligning the bellhousing I am finding that the parallel measurement is off by 5 thousands. The limit is 2 thousands. I am measuring this by attaching the dial indicator to the flywheel rotating the needle against the back face of the bell. I checked the mating surfaces for damage and all looks good. I am purchasing some round shims to put around the bolts to try improving the parallelism.

The bore (or concentric) alignment was at the high limit of 10 thousands TIR, but once the bellhousing is more parallel this measurement should improve. The bore alignment is done by rotating the needle of the dial indicator against the bore as the flywheel rotates.

This has taken a lot of time and a lot of removing of the bell and flywheel, but I am doing my best to get it within tolerance.

 

Well. Finally got the bellhousing aligned per specs: 0.002" parallel TIR and 0.004" concentric TIR. I used 5 thousands washers on one side. Two washers on the right-most bolts, and one on the center-right bolt. I also measured for soft foot and didn't find any changes. I will be posting a separate thread to explain it all.

 

Edit: link to thread with alignment explanation: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-alignment-of-bellhousing-to-engine

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Engine is in. Transmission is in. I ended up installing them separately. Since I have the headers in the car fitment of both at the same time was an issue, and working by myself doesn't help so I did it in two steps. One mistake I made was to fill the transmission up with oil before installation. I don't know what was I thinking. You have to tilt the transmission quite a bit for the shaft to slide into the clutch. It was a bit messy. I was holding the transmission leaking but couldn't do much to stop the oil so I had some oil on me. I am glad I had a bunch of rags next to me. At the end not a big deal. Probably about a 1/4 of a quart lost. EDIT: in hindsight filling up the transmission before installing is not that bad of an idea, but the smart thing would have been to install the yoke to eliminate oil leaking through the seal.

 

Next steps are to adjust the clutch, connect all the water hoses and radiator, connect gas lines, connect steering lines, install accessories, and complete the wiring. Right now I have big bundles of entangled wires and hoses that I will be sorting out. Drive test day is approaching!

 

EDIT PS: the biggest unknown I have right now is that the headers are very close to the engine mounts in the driver's side. I have changed engine mounts so these ones (Prothane) stick out more towards the headers than the original ones. I estimate the gap to be a tight 1/8" right now. I am afraid that there will be contact during acceleration. At this time I am moving forward with the way it is. I was able to grind a little bit but it was very tight to get much done. If it is an issue while driving I will have to resort to denting the tube to gain more clearance.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Here goes the report. This weekend I tested the car with newly stroked rebuilt engine and TKO600. First drive in one year. It feels very strong with amazing power. I have never seen the nose of the car so high. The acceleration through the gears, even in 4th gear, is excellent. In third gear I hit the gas once focusing in the RPMs and when I looked at the speedometer I was almost at 110mph. Pretty cool. No vibrations from the drive train.

Spinning tires in first gear was way too easy without clutch. I still have to do tuning of the EFI and the timing to feel that all has been tuned in. I ran the car between 2,500 and 4,000 rpms in 3rd gear a bunch of times for break in before hitting 6,000+ RPMs several times. Now I am changing the oil and looks good with a few fine metal debris.

 

Summary of what was done this last year:

-Engine totally rebuilt and stroked to 408.

-Installed TKO600 and new drive shaft from Strange (1350 U-joints). Among mods here was to tilt the rear axle 4 degrees up to be closer to the transmission angle.

-New Champion radiator.

-Adapted a Saginaw type of steering pump replacing the Ford unit that was leaking. I will be writing more details in a thread about this mod. Right now it feels okay, but I am still dealing with air in the system making the steering hard.

-Replaced the engine mounts with Prothane ones. I did not measure any difference in engine position. Actually, after all was installed, the fan was hitting the bottom of the fan shroud so I had modify the shroud. The transmission was positioned as high as possible in the tunnel to keep the drivetrain angles under control. However, the Hooker headers were very close to the driver's side mount.

-The engine combo has the Blue Thunder manifold. It cleared the ram air hood easily, but I have had already modified the air filter.

-Fixed cowl rust.

-Fixed battery apron rust.

-Replaced strut rod cross member.

-Replaced mid brake line.

-Replaced brake booster with the one from LEED brakes.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...