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Nice job! you appear to be very focused and detail oriented on the build . Thats nice to see the car is getting a good work over! Keep up the good work! and welcome from Idaho.

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My wife and I picked Spruce Green from Eastwood as the exterior color.  So I painted the interior to see how it looks.  I fugured if I screwed up or the color was bad, the interior is covered anyway b

Interior - not good.    Closer up does not make it better.  :-(   Trunk is very rusted.   Front is very bad too.   I think most folks would have looked at this Mustang and just w

As you can see, body work is what I am doing now. Its very time consuming. But I enjoy working with metal. You can make a mistake and go back and fix it without buying a new part (unlike newer cars

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Welcome aboard from west Michigan. It looks like you have a great project on your hands!

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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  • 2 months later...

I need some help here.  I have been busy removing the front aprons from the Stang.  Seems they were not aligned properly.  I was using a bubble level and measuring tape.  I saw a youtube video where a guy used a self leveling laser to check body alignment, etc.  So I got one and checked the body alignment.  Well.  It was off so I spent three weeks cutting out my welds (between the heat and working).  At least I did find out my spot and seam welds are pretty good.  So here is where I am at (see photo below).  The aprons are laying in the floor frame rail and the aprons are equal distant to the rear suspension points.  Rear suspension points are level.  In the below picture, the green line with "OK" are mounts for the upper control arm, forward bolt.  I made a mount to keep this portion at the proper height per the Ford manual.  They are not bolted tight so I can move left/right and twist, if needed.  I cannot move the apron up or down.  In the below portion of the picture, "A" and "B" are not level.  You can see the green laser level line at the lower control arm mounts.  Here is where I need some help.  Any idea how I can get the two lower mount locations level - keeping the both front frame rails level and the upper control arm mounts level?  I have tried twisting the right side to bring the lower control arm up to get close to level with the left side.  I can get close - within 1/4".  Is this close enough?  The Ford manual says the tolerance is .06 (approx 1/16").  Any thoughts/ideas?  Thanks for your help. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Without being there and seeing in person tough to call. If you were on frame machine you could chain down and pull anything you needed. 
I always tell everyone before you ever touch your project no matter the condition take to a frame shop and have the chassis set to zero before you cut anything. 

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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  • 5 months later...

I got the front end with 1/16" tolerance per the 1972 ford manual.  Front to rear on left and right are within 1/16".  Front of frame is level and rear of frame is level per laser level.  I used the suspension anchor points for the rear and the front to take these measruements since that is where the suspension anchors to the car.  Overall, I feel pretty good about the overall frame setup.  

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I painted the interior and engine compartment with rust encapsulator and then topped it with white sealer/primer.  Overkill?  Maybe. 

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My wife and I picked Spruce Green from Eastwood as the exterior color.  So I painted the interior to see how it looks.  I fugured if I screwed up or the color was bad, the interior is covered anyway by carpet, seats, and paneling.  But we think the color will be pretty cool.  I also sealed/primed the new hood.  And I started painting with engine bay black in fender well area. 

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Mostly new front suspension and steering components added.  Ordered the MustangsPlus front suspension set for 71-73 Mustangs.  620 coil springs and 1" stabilizer bar.  Should drop the front end about 1".

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Now the axle next.  For some reason I was not looking forward to this.  I replaced the pinion/ring from 2.70 to a 3.50.  From the research I did, I wanted a balance between responsiveness/torquiness (SP??) and cruiseability.  So I went with the 3.50 ration.  I know with the FMX, the engine RPM's at cruising with stock 26" tires will be around 3000 rpm - not necessarily cruise worthy over long distance but I am planning on installing a 5 speed (T5z).  Also got rid of the open differential and put in a Yukon limited slip.  Used dial indicator etc to ensure .003 max runout and .008-012 bearing load.  All new bearings (pinion, differential, and axle) and axle seals.   New KYB shocks and 4 1/5 mid eye leaf springs plus shackles.  Good times. 

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Next I rebuilt the steering column with new bearings, turn signal switch, ignition switch and rag joint.  Sanded and painted the column.  Now waiting for backordered steering wheel. 

So currently I am working on small projects, if you will.  Cleaning up the quarter windows, replacing seals, and installing into the body.  Researching brake kits - seriously considering Wilwood brakes.  Researching wheel/tire options.  My plan is the get most of the vehicle ready to run (brakes, fuel, electrical, front seats, dash (instrument panel) before I start working on the engine.  This way I can install the engine and get this baby running.  But there is still a lot of work to do before that. 

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Wow, that is some big progress, fantastic :classic_ohmy::thumb: 

That looks really good! 

I am in front of the same undercarriage-wise: rear axle, rear and front suspension - all new. I will keep my 3:50 gears and update to TracLok :biggrin:

Keep us posted! 

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Very nice! Green fits grandé's the best! (ok ok, I might be coloured a tad :D )
Awesome to be in that part of the project where every new addition brings you closer to the day you will turn the key and take it for a ride!

The 3.50/FMX combo, is spot on btw, if you would not go for a T5, I'd say pick a 2.5/2.8k stall converter.

Keep up the good work!

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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Thank you all for your comments.  They are very motivating.  Also, it is good to see folks from Europe with these classic muscle cars.  I bet they turn heads on the road!  :-) 

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35 minutes ago, JT351W said:

Thank you all for your comments.  They are very motivating.  Also, it is good to see folks from Europe with these classic muscle cars.  I bet they turn heads on the road!  :-) 

Yep, they are a real, positive head turner here - the 71-73 Mustangs aren't many here over the pond :thumb:

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Great progress, that's going to be better than new when it's done. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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A lot of great work accomplished—well done.  That is a lot of metal to replace!  The 3.50 gears would be great with a TKO500 or 600. In my ‘69 I went with 3.70s and a TK6 and I can cruise at 80mph with the engine relaxing.  If I remember correctly there are a few different OD ratios available, I went for the numerically lower ratio.  

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1931 Ford Model A Station Wagon
1969 Mach 1 - 351C, TKO-600, 4WDB, R&P, A/C, Shaker, Fold Down, etc.
1972 Mach 1 - 351C, FMX, PDB, PS, A/C, Fold Down, Console
1996 Mustang Cobra Convertible - 10psi Procharger, 436rwhp

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