Accidentally cut the metal fuel line

Sheriff41 said:

That should work but you should use fuel injection hose clamps. @Stanglover will educate you

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giantpune said:

I would suggest flaring the ends of the line to help the rubber seal up. If you cant manage that, a replacement steel line is not overly expensive nor hard to install.

Neither of the supply or return lines are pressurized with the stock setup. You just need to hold back the weight of the gas in the tank.

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Don C said:

I agree, gear clamps are bad enough when they're out in the open where you can keep an eye on them, a disaster waiting to happen when they're in a place where you can't see them. The rubber will creep out from under the clamps, meaning that the clamps have to be retightened periodically, especially when the weather starts getting colder and the rubber shrinks as well as creeps. If you decide to replace the lines, and don't mind doing the bending, cutting and flaring yourself, the nickel copper lines are the best way to go, easy to bend and flare and never corrode nor rust out, and look good, kind of a shiny finish with a slight copper color. If your lines are old, especially like original, they are probably nearly rusted through, anyway.

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GERMYS_72 said:

I was trying very hard not to do this, but I nicked both the fuel and the vapor metal lines while cutting out flooring.

I slapped on some 3/8 rubber fuel line, let me know if this will present an issue. I assume ok since there's already rubber / metal / rubber all the way to the engine bay.


View attachment 94428

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GERMYS_72 said:

The tank is out right now, I'll check into new lines

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Stanglover said:

I went with SS lines that were supposedly pre-bent, but still needed 'adjustments'. Rubber hose needs to be fuel injector grade, but even then, I found the outside surface is not that gas resistant.
If you're this far into the job, replacing lines make absolute sense.
I also suggest getting new rubber gromets for where the lines go through body panels.
Here are a few pics I have. You can see the rust in the line. It actually broke when I removed it.
I also made a new 3/8" steel line from the pump to the carb, a Holley 670 4V. I had to adapt the pump outlet to take 3/8" lines. The rubber 'sleeve' was just to protect from frame rubbing, that's just me though!
Note the screw clamps and fuel line spring clamps used. These are all good.

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GERMYS_72 said:

Thanks,
I might as well replace the rear brake lines while I'm at it.

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GERMYS_72 said:

Thanks,
I might as well replace the rear brake lines while I'm at it.

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giantpune said:

Double up on the hose clamps and call it good.

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Stanglover said:

Huh! Proper clamps don't need to be "doubled up".

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Stanglover said:

Yeah, why not. And while you're in there........................

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GERMYS_72 said:

I just scoped it out, one of the grommets is single, the other is double and has a brake line going with the fuel line. I would have to basically redo that brake line (crimp a new fitting on) to get it inside a new grommet.

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giantpune said:

Proper hose clamps also usually go on lines that have a flare the hose goes over.

If you dont want to flare the ends, you can use a compression fitting. Its got a little copper ring that gets smooshed around the hard line and seals up well. I've used that setup a lot in pressurized fuel lines and never had one fail.

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