351C 2V Build advice

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What would be the down side to putting a 750cfm double pumper carburetor on this set up instead of a 600cfm vacuum secondaries? besides gas mileage?
In addition to the reduced gas mileage-

Bad throttle response

Difficultly tuning idle circuit

Greater potential for fouled plugs

Bog when going to WOT

IMO a 750 dp really isn't appropriate for your application. A 750 vs could work nicely but will not match the 600 for throttle response.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks . My mechanic tried to sway me towards the 750 DP saying a 600cfm VS wouldn’t be much of a step up from my 2bbl

 
With what I assume as a stock 2v set up, IE cam, dished pistons, etc and an Auto trans a 750 DP would not be my choice in carb. VS carbs are generally better suited to the Auto trans. with the swap to a 4bbl manifold, headers and swapping out the rear gears to a 3.25, I would think a 600-650 VS carb would be appropriate. I have heard a lot of good reviews on the Quick Fuel carbs. I am running a proform 750 DP right now and it performs pretty well, but I am running a 5 speed manual with a very aggressive cam and much higher compression. Got the carb for free and rebuilt it so price was right at the time. Considering an upgrade this summer to either a custom set up Quick Fuel or possible Fuel Injection, haven't decided yet and have some other issues that need addressed first.

 
A 750 on this combo will ensure that your spark plugs will stay spotless and shiny. Because you will have to clean them so often after flooding condition. As I wrote in first reply, Swapped back to 650 and it was much better, tho a 600 would have been better choice.

 
Sorry to say but your mechanic is giving you some very bad advice.
Agreed.

Not to mention Holleys are prone to leaking more than Edelbrocks, anyway.  Just sayin'  :whistling:

 
Canted 393,

Two of the three bad fitting reviews from Summit on the Hooker Comps were from '70 Mustang owners. The third bad review doesn't say what year he has. We know the 71-73 cars have entirely different chassis and steering, so I'm thinking that possibly, the problem is fitment on the '70 cars. Seems like I've read of good reports on how they fit 71-73. Just sayin'......

 
Canted 393,

                     Two of the three bad fitting reviews from Summit on the Hooker Comps were from '70 Mustang owners. The third bad review doesn't say what year he has. We know the 71-73 cars have entirely different chassis and steering, so I'm thinking that possibly, the problem is fitment on the '70 cars. Seems like I've read of good reports on how they fit 71-73. Just sayin'......
That could be the quality looked very good maybe they have the wrong jig for the 70 model. The set I sent back were for a 70 cougar also, the more options the better for us ford guys. Hopefully they get it figured out, my older sets I have there are no problems.

 
hedmans are better than hookers.

i would not buy an edelbrock if i were you. they are extremely hard for a novice to tune and are actually untuable in some cases because of the limited jet sizes they have.

holley or quick fuel 650 vs. the secondaries are adjustable via a spring kit.

also, you should set your ignition timing curve to the optimum setting to get the most performance.

 
hedmans are better than hookers.

i would not buy an edelbrock if i were you. they are extremely hard for a novice to tune and are actually untuable in some cases because of the limited jet sizes they have.

holley or quick fuel 650 vs. the secondaries are adjustable via a spring kit.

also, you should set your ignition timing curve to the optimum setting to get the most performance.
:spam:

To which I reply:

"Hookers Rule and Hedmans Drool!"   lollerz

Please explain why Edelbrocks are extremely hard for a novice to tune, whereas the Holleys have the exact same adjustments available.  Carburetors are pretty basic: air, fuel, mix, idle, jets, springs, choke, float levels... not a lot of gray area.   :chin:

Set the ignition timing curve to where the engine is happiest doing what you want it to do.

Seriously - not everything goes down a track with the pedal matted.  :cool:

 
Sooooo.... I've got side tracked with some fun set backs! Having to replace my steering gearbox because mine started leaking like a siv... picked up a reman at NAPA for $113. But mainly... having some serious misfiring and rough idle. I replaced all the spark plugs, but long story short... I tinkered with the rocker arms on cylinder 1 and think it is due to that. I had watched a bunch of videos on how to adjust these and it seemed simple enough, until I started and realized I didn't have screw in studs, so the rockers weren't adjustable. I think I ended up over tightening them and now the valve/s is/are hanging open. This I plan on fixing soon with some rocker arm shims. So all work comes to a halt until I'm certain my engine is healthy. I ran a compression test and all cylinders are equal besides cylinder 1 which was a tad lower... I think due to the valve issue. Still haven't ran a leak down test, because I just moved to CA from TX and haven't built up my tool collection yet.

Hopefully I resolve all this quickly and get to do those sweet upgrades. I'll decide hedman or hooker based on pricing probably and after doing more research I'm going to go with a Quick Fuel carb. You guys are the best.

ALSO if anyone knows a great shop or Mustang guy in LA, that doesn't charge an arm and a leg, I need a guy!

 
Over tightening non-adjustable rockers will not cause the valves to stay open, the fulcrum bottoms out in the pedestal slot. You can strip the threads in the block or the stud or nut, though. More likely explanations are valve recession or burned valves, both will have your symptoms.

 
Ruh roh... luckily I tracked down some 351c 2v heads on Craigslist for $150. In the process of trying to get any part numbers that might be on them. Does anyone have any insight on knowing/identifying if they are the same heads? I don’t know how much 351c 2v heads changed over the years.

 
I think I found the culprit of my misfires.... I bought 2 push-rods from Autozone.... thought maybe I bent one on cylinder one because I have before.... Just realized they gave me some that were an 1/8" different in length!! Only finding this out a month after replacing them.

 
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