'71 Mach 1 rear axle removed today for service

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Page 15-10-22 of Volume 1 of my shop manual says 5 pints for a 9-inch differential.
 So it does, how did I miss that. I will need another bottle .

Thanks Don.
I assume you mean another quart of gear lube :)

It's funny how it seems to always work out that way, then we wind up with another half full bottle on the shelf.

 
If it is going to sit there all winter be sure to plug the vent so no critter builds a home in it, lol. They love to build nests here in tubes and holes of stuff sitting around. 

I have lots of snakes in the old garage and shed. There was one skin this year that must have been 5 or 6 feet long. When I go looking for something I look for the snake more than the parts. Keeps the mice out for sure.

 
If it is going to sit there all winter be sure to plug the vent so no critter builds a home in it, lol. They love to build nests here in tubes and holes of stuff sitting around. 

I have lots of snakes in the old garage and shed. There was one skin this year that must have been 5 or 6 feet long. When I go looking for something I look for the snake more than the parts. Keeps the mice out for sure.
Yeah, we don't have a snake problem here for sure. Another reason I love the colder climate!! As for the vent tube, already capped off with a rubber cap. I'm more worried about moisture in the garage. When it gets down to -10c, 14f not much is moving around anyway.

Geoff.

 
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Page 15-10-22 of Volume 1 of my shop manual says 5 pints for a 9-inch differential.
 So it does, how did I miss that. I will need another bottle .

Thanks Don.
I assume you mean another quart of gear lube :)

It's funny how it seems to always work out that way, then we wind up with another half full bottle on the shelf.
 Yes indeed. Then when you find you never needed that extra 1/2 bottle, how do you get rid of it? Can't dump it in the garbage anymore!

Actually, I might need it if my tailstock leaks at all and I have to top off the gear box. Same stuff.

 
Ok, hopefully the last quick question.. for now anyway.

The rebuilder will not reuse nuts or bolts in high stress applications. Before I sent it to him, I did not take notice what type of 3/8 fine nuts were used on the dif center section. He used ordinary g8 nuts and told me that I would need to replace them and add the copper crush washers, which he was out of. This is not what he normally would do, but he knows me and knows I can deal with it. Problem is I think the nuts should be the flanged style. I don't need to play with that till spring, but I just want to get everything ready.

Can someone confirm my thoughts? I suppose I could just go ask him, but little things like this can be useful to others on the forum.

Geoff.

 
I would just get these and be done with it.  The clamping force needs to be sufficient to keep the gasket compressed, but beyond that these studs and nuts are not individually subjected to any significant forces

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cur-95055?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAuefvBRDXARIsAFEOQ9FDKwjgsLHUXW9ekswKVHMySvMqwx-a1sq3WhqEh8_TPJZlCCsMsFQaAgmmEALw_wcB
 Ok thanks Jeff.

I can pick up Nylocks locally if I can get fine thread, will have to check. The torque spec I was told is only about 45 ft/lbs, so as you say, not a significant force.

Geoff.

 
I say that less because of the torque specs than the way power is transmitted through the axles and the number of fasteners any force is a twisting force against the studs, not a pulling force.
 True.

Thanks for the input.

Like I said, I'm not really doing any thing with it till spring unless it gets warm and I'm looking for something to do. For now, I want to get some oil in it so no rust gets to the gear or bearings. I'll change the nuts one at a time regardless.

Geoff.

 
I just ordered new nuts and copper washers from the industrial supply. Mine came from McMaster Carr in NJ. I am sure you can find them in Canada also. I recall I only spending about 10 us dollars on about 15 or 20 of each.

Thanks, Jay

 
I just ordered new nuts and copper washers from the industrial supply. Mine came from McMaster Carr in NJ. I am sure you can find them in Canada also. I recall I only spending about 10 us dollars on about 15 or 20 of each.

Thanks, Jay
 Jay, thanks, I can order from a local fastener company, so no problem getting nuts. I have the washers already, but I was enquiring if the originals were a flanged nut style. Aftermarket Nylocks would be good also. Failing that a drop of blue Loctite to ordinary G8 nuts would give peace of mind.

Like I said, there's no rush.

Geoff.

 
I use loctite and that is all I believe is necessary. It it is together I might paint the nuts, but I'd likely do it with a brush and not even tape anything off

Note: I do not work on restorations, only hot rods, so correct is functional to me. YMMV

 
I use loctite and that is all I believe is necessary.  If it is together I might paint the nuts, but I'd likely do it with a brush and not even tape anything off

Note: I do not work on restorations, only hot rods, so correct is functional to me.  YMMV
 Point taken.

 I misread the second sentence, I though it read " I might paint MY nuts" then I re-read it, you said "THE nuts"!!

Geoff.

 
Well today turned out bright an sunny, not too cold at all. I decided to install the new 3/8-24 flanged top-lock nuts and copper crush washers and fill the dif with 80-90 oil.

I can't remember if I ever used crush washers before, but I'll admit I was slightly surprised by how much was needed to achieve the 45 ft/lbs  torque. Seemed like I was turning the nuts forever! The bottom two of course cannot be torqued due to some wonderful design work by a Ford engineer, so I just put as much on them as a standard 9/16 wrench would allow compared to one that was torqued. If it leaks, tighten some more I guess.

The amount of oil I added with a 4 oz bottle of Ford friction modifier was 80 US oz and just reached the bottom of the fill hole, so I guess it's all good to go. I believe there is 16 US ozs in a US pint, so that would be exactly 5 US pints as per the manual. (Why the hell the US ended up with different liquid measurements when the rest is UK imperial, I don't know)

So, now I wait for Spring, buy new springs and get that rear end back in. Can't wait!!

Geoff.

 
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(Why the hell the US ended up with different liquid measurements when the rest is UK imperial, I don't know)

Geoff.
We were the same up until 1824 when the British government came up with the idea of standardizing the Commonwealth. The U.S. stayed with the old system.

 
(Why the hell the US ended up with different liquid measurements when the rest is UK imperial, I don't know)

Geoff.
We were the same up until 1824 when the British government came up with the idea of standardizing the Commonwealth. The U.S. stayed with the old system.
 Is that so, I did NOT know that. Takes a Yank ( sorry for that generalization) to set a Brit (or Limey) straight! Still a PITA for us Commonwealthers. I had assumed that perhaps, same as spelling of some words, things just got changed by the settlers who, but not all, were not well educated. I'll be very honest, a lot of US spelling makes more sense in the modern language, than in the old English language.

 Even worse for Canadians getting stuck with Metric! Better watch what I say here I guess, don't want to offend anyone!

I learn something new every day.

Geoff.

EDIT; added NOT before well educated, somehow I missed that out.

 
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Yeah, but British women have much better accents and I prefer listening to them than US women...

 
Yeah, but British women have much better accents and I prefer listening to them than US women...
 Yes, but MY  British accent, got me l**ed quite often as Canadian women loved the accent, so it goes both ways.

Now we're waaaay off track!

Geoff.

 
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