73 fuse box questions

[EBSTANG]

If you have any more questions, you can call Midlife correctly. He loves talking about your electrical problems. *G*

 

[midlife]

If you have any more questions, you can call Midlife correctly. He loves talking about your electrical problems.  *G*

You got that almost correct: I love talking about EBStang's electrical problems.

Eric: You're now listed in my little black book... :whistling: lollerz

 

[Heavy Metal]

Because that fusebox is not friendly for my back and also because  I forget what I've just looked at within the next 2 mins.

Here's a draft of a (gym free) recap of the fuses layout.



Compared it with my spare fuses, and I miss the #7 (20a in this length, and the #3 4a)

I need buy new spare 14a's or 15a's in length of 2,4,5, but these I can find.

So its about finding 3 and 7 in the right length with similar or slightly greater values.

EDIT: I can find 7 over here, assuming its 32mm

https://www.rdae.nl/zekeringen-en-zekeringhouders/zekeringen/glaszekeringen/glaszekeringen-63-x-32-mm/

I like your diagram Fabrice! I made one a few years ago for the same reasons...

I printed it, cut it down to minimum size, covered it in packing tape and keep it in the glove box just incase. It would be almost impossible to read the lettering on the fuse box on the side of the road. It also helps to direct your attention to the correct fuse when trying to diagnose a problem.



Fantastic information guys.

I will be headed for my electrical nightmare soon, may call for a lifeline....lol

Thanks again !

 

[Vinnie]

Cheers guys, that connector explains it all! I think I'll leave it upthere for now as I only want to replace the fuses.

 

[Vinnie]

@ Fabrice: You can order the 14A 27mm fuses from Adams Classic Cars: http://www.adamscc.nl/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=762

(I just received 6 of those and also a few 4A 15mm fuses)

 

[Vinnie]

@Midlife: Is the fuse box only connected by the pins? So when you pull if off there are no wires hanging off of it? (I don't have ACC)

And did you say you have decent spares? I noticed that the roadside assistance bent one of the fuse connectors a bit much and I'm scared it will snap off.

 

[midlife]

@Midlife: Is the fuse box only connected by the pins? So when you pull if off there are no wires hanging off of it? (I don't have ACC)

And did you say you have decent spares? I noticed that the roadside assistance bent one of the fuse connectors a bit much and I'm scared it will snap off.

I don't understand your question.  On the back of the fuse box is a green connector with many pins for the headlight harness.  On the front side, there are no pins.  The fuse clips are crimped with one or two wires, depending upon the clip itself.

 

[Vinnie]

@Midlife: Is the fuse box only connected by the pins? So when you pull if off there are no wires hanging off of it? (I don't have ACC)

And did you say you have decent spares? I noticed that the roadside assistance bent one of the fuse connectors a bit much and I'm scared it will snap off.

I don't understand your question.  On the back of the fuse box is a green connector with many pins for the headlight harness.  On the front side, there are no pins.  The fuse clips are crimped with one or two wires, depending upon the clip itself.

I meant to ask if the box only connects through that connector or if there are wires connected to it elsewhere?

If one of the fuse clips breaks, is it easy to replace? (since the wires are crimped on them)

 

[rackerm]

@Midlife: Is the fuse box only connected by the pins? So when you pull if off there are no wires hanging off of it? (I don't have ACC)

And did you say you have decent spares? I noticed that the roadside assistance bent one of the fuse connectors a bit much and I'm scared it will snap off.

I don't understand your question.  On the back of the fuse box is a green connector with many pins for the headlight harness.  On the front side, there are no pins.  The fuse clips are crimped with one or two wires, depending upon the clip itself.

Vinnie,

When you remove the center bolt from the fuse box half and unplug it (below)....



You will see the green base with the pins Midlife is referring to (below)....



another view of the green base with the engine bay (headlight) harness that runs thru the firewall (below)....



Here is the backside of the fuse box with the harness. This plugs into the green base with the pins. You can see the bolt and pin holes (below)....

 

[Vinnie]

Thanks Rackerm, that answers my connector question

 

[Fabrice]

@vinnie, thx, bookmarked that one!

Meanwhile Steve (aka @secluff) kindly offered to send me few 4A 15mm I couldn't find here + the missing 429 valve stud nut he had as spare that i was looking for.

Bought all the others as pack of 10. So I'm good.

Meanwhile soldered a 4a pushin type fuse to the 2 extremities of a 20mm that I broke for the purpose and it works.

The funny part is that its actually more easy to put it in than the right one

Will replace once I get the right ones...

 

[midlife]

"If one of the fuse clips breaks, is it easy to replace? (since the wires are crimped on them) "

Moderate effort is required. You have to remove a c-clip that holds the bolt, lift up the green connector from the fuse box, and then attack the fuse clip itself. That's done by fitting two small jeweler screwdrivers down the locking tab slots to release the fuse clip and then driving the fuse clip down and out from the fuse box. This is difficult if it is the ACC or BATT fittings, as they are three and two fuse clip assemblies. Once free of the fuse box, you need to find a replacement (don't get the repro clips from catalog stores, as they are crap (won't crimp; metal is brittle) from another harness that has good clips and splice the wires. Bend the tabs back out and re-fit it into the fuse box. Now comes the bitch (for 71/72's): fitting the green connector back in. There are so many wires inside the fuse box that it limits the travel of the green connector so that you can get the c-clip back on the bolt. Often times, trying to jam the green connector back in that you break one of the 3 legs that hold it in place. This is not one of my favorite tasks.

 

[Vinnie]

Well, I’ll say a little prayer before I remove the temporary fuse and gently bend back the fuse holder then...

Thanks for all the explanations guys!

 

[Steve1973M1]

Hi All,
Below is Eaton SFE Fuses and Here are LittleFuse numbers: , 0SFE030.V , 0SFE020.V , 0SFE014.V , 0SFE004.V. These can be bought at Digikey or mouser (littlefuse is all under $1.00). The Fuses are fast blow 32V fuses. (use USPS mail shipping for least cost).

 

[giantpune]

For folks who stumble across this one like me, the oreiley stores carry the oddball fuses we need for our cars. The short 4a and the medium length 14a for less than $1 each. My local store doesn't have all the fuses out on the sale's floor. He had to walk all the way to the back to get them.


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...e-blister-pack-14-amp-glass-fuse/lit3/sfe14bp

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...use-blister-pack-4-amp-glass-fuse/lit3/sfe4bp

 

[Ray Meese]

For folks who stumble across this one like me, the oreiley stores carry the oddball fuses we need for our cars. The short 4a and the medium length 14a for less than $1 each. My local store doesn't have all the fuses out on the sale's floor. He had to walk all the way to the back to get them.


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...e-blister-pack-14-amp-glass-fuse/lit3/sfe14bp

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...use-blister-pack-4-amp-glass-fuse/lit3/sfe4bp

I bought this kit from CJ Pony parts, and went up to the next highest Amp level (so, if it called for a 4a, I went to 5a) . It is a lot easier to find blade type fuse than glass. For the real small one, I had to grind it down a little on both sides to make it work.

 

[tony-muscle]

I bought this kit from CJ Pony parts, and went up to the next highest Amp level (so, if it called for a 4a, I went to 5a) . It is a lot easier to find blade type fuse than glass. For the real small one, I had to grind it down a little on both sides to make it work.

Interesting mod. It is also a lot easier to remove the blade fuse.

 

[giantpune]

What's the logic for putting in the a larger sized fuse than the circuit was designed for? Isn't that like putting pennies behind the old screw in fuses? And kinda defeat the purpose of a fuse?

 

[tony-muscle]

What's the logic for putting in the a larger sized fuse than the circuit was designed for? Isn't that like putting pennies behind the old screw in fuses? And kinda defeat the purpose of a fuse?

I think going from 4 to 5 amps, or 14 to 15 amps won't make much of a difference.

 

[TheDude]

I bought this kit from CJ Pony parts, and went up to the next highest Amp level (so, if it called for a 4a, I went to 5a) . It is a lot easier to find blade type fuse than glass. For the real small one, I had to grind it down a little on both sides to make it work.

View attachment 97821

I was just looking at these as well. If nothing else, this seems like it will make road side servicing a lot easier. That shimmy under the dash in a parking lot is not exactly something I look forward to and this might make it a little easier. Here's CJ's video about it

 

[giantpune]

I think going from 4 to 5 amps, or 14 to 15 amps won't make much of a difference.

From 4 to 5 is 25% more pixies that need to dance through the fuse before it pops.