Accident

[luxstang]

That’s good news! Take the money and run. ?

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Did they discuss the engine?

 

[Mister 4x4]

AWESOME news!  ::thumb::

 

[jpaz]

That’s good news! Take the money and run. ?

No chance of that, they didn’t total it.

 

[jpaz]

Did they discuss the engine?

No, but the adjuster did list an oil pan and gasket to be replaced. Why, I don’t know, there’s no oil leak. Transmission is leaking, so maybe he meant that.

I am concerned about it coming to a sudden stop, but I had my foot on the brake so at least it wasn’t reving really high. I will definitely be checking everything out. Hopefully no problems there.

 

[jpaz]

AWESOME news!  ::thumb::

Ya, I really didn’t want to lose my car. Thanks Mr. 4x4!

 

[OzCoupe72]

Great to hear you get to keep the car, not sure how it works in the USA but do you get to choose your repairer even if it goes over the estimate?

Hopefully you can get it back on the road soon

 

[jpaz]

Great to hear you get to keep the car, not sure how it works in the USA but do you get to choose your repairer even if it goes over the estimate?

Hopefully you can get it back on the road soon

Yes, I can choose the shop. The estimate is just that... an estimate and the shop will have to let the insurance company know of any changes.

I'm in no big rush, just want the repairs done correct. Plus, winter is almost here so I won't drive it till next spring anyway.

Thank's OzCoupe72, I do hope it doesn't take too long.

 

[mpbsr]

The car can be replaced...you can't be.

 

[mach71351c]

Good news. I thought it was going to be a total.

 

[classicsguy]

Is the car being repaired at Mustang Craftsmen in Michigan? Saw a picture of a car that looked exactly as yours on their website. Great shop!

 

[jpaz]

Is the car being repaired at Mustang Craftsmen in Michigan? Saw a picture of  a car that looked exactly as yours on their website. Great shop!

Yes it is. They came and picked it up last week. Great guys and I am really looking forward to getting it back.

 

[bkdunha]

Great news all around. Glad the insurance company found a way to work with you and very happy that you have found a shop that you sound comfortable with. Best wishes on a stress free rebuild and that you will have it back in time for some summer cruising next year.

 

[jpaz]

Great news all around.  Glad the insurance company found a way to work with you and very happy that you have found a shop that you sound comfortable with.  Best wishes on a stress free rebuild and that you will have it back in time for some summer cruising next year.

Thanks bkdunha, I am definitely comfortable with them repairing my car. I’m also going to have them put the correct black on the hood, spoiler and louvers. And I’m having them install twist locks on the hood. My hood even had the wrong pattern for the blackout, so now I’m getting all that stuff corrected. Can’t wait!

 

[73pony]

Very nice. Cant wait to see it back on the road!

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Happy to hear it is getting repaired.

On the hood black out one of our members did some research and all of the existing templates they see is incorrect. I did a rub off of my original and it was quite a bit different in radius and position. If you want a rub off for them to mask the hood by will be glad to get you on. I take a piece of masking paper and place over the front of the hood and mark the front edge of the hood and the edges along with the hood locks. Then take pencil and do a rub so you get the exact shape and position. They did a sorry job at the factory of getting them centered for sure, lol.

This is an original car not painted.

If they use a Dynacorn hood make sure they change the arch to match fenders and then spot weld the hem in a few places to keep it there and then seam seal it. Don't just assume they will do that. Dynacorn leaves the hem not welded for that reason so it can be fit to the car.

If you want an original Ford hood I have a spare, PM me.

Again glad to see you get to keep the car. Hope the back gets in shape also.

 

[jpaz]

Happy to hear it is getting repaired.

On the hood black out one of our members did some research and all of the existing templates they see is incorrect. I did a rub off of my original and it was quite a bit different in radius and position. If you want a rub off for them to mask the hood by will be glad to get you on. I take a piece of masking paper and place over the front of the hood and mark the front edge of the hood and the edges along with the hood locks. Then take pencil and do a rub so you get the exact shape and position. They did a sorry job at the factory of getting them centered for sure, lol.

This is an original car not painted.

If they use a Dynacorn hood make sure they change the arch to match fenders and then spot weld the hem in a few places to keep it there and then seam seal it. Don't just assume they will do that. Dynacorn leaves the hem not welded for that reason so it can be fit to the car.

If you want an original Ford hood I have a spare, PM me.

Again glad to see you get to keep the car. Hope the back gets in shape also.

Thanks so much for all the info David! Yes I am going to make sure they do the hood correct. I knew right off the bat mine was wrong when I bought it, but it wasn’t a deal changer. 

The guy doing my car has an original 71 429 car, so he knows the correct pattern. 

I didn’t know that about the repo hoods, but will definitely ask them about it and how they do them.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Happy to hear it is getting repaired.

On the hood black out one of our members did some research and all of the existing templates they see is incorrect. I did a rub off of my original and it was quite a bit different in radius and position. If you want a rub off for them to mask the hood by will be glad to get you on. I take a piece of masking paper and place over the front of the hood and mark the front edge of the hood and the edges along with the hood locks. Then take pencil and do a rub so you get the exact shape and position. They did a sorry job at the factory of getting them centered for sure, lol.

This is an original car not painted.

If they use a Dynacorn hood make sure they change the arch to match fenders and then spot weld the hem in a few places to keep it there and then seam seal it. Don't just assume they will do that. Dynacorn leaves the hem not welded for that reason so it can be fit to the car.

If you want an original Ford hood I have a spare, PM me.

Again glad to see you get to keep the car. Hope the back gets in shape also.

Thanks so much for all the info David! Yes I am going to make sure they do the hood correct. I knew right off the bat mine was wrong when I bought it, but it wasn’t a deal changer. 

The guy doing my car has an original 71 429 car, so he knows the correct pattern. 

I didn’t know that about the repo hoods, but will definitely ask them about it and how they do them.

You also need to be sure they remove all the black E-coat from the repo hood. Rust hides under that on most panels and in years to come can pop out. The underside they will just scotchbrite and paint but the exterior needs to be bare metal and go from there.

 

[jpaz]

Happy to hear it is getting repaired.

On the hood black out one of our members did some research and all of the existing templates they see is incorrect. I did a rub off of my original and it was quite a bit different in radius and position. If you want a rub off for them to mask the hood by will be glad to get you on. I take a piece of masking paper and place over the front of the hood and mark the front edge of the hood and the edges along with the hood locks. Then take pencil and do a rub so you get the exact shape and position. They did a sorry job at the factory of getting them centered for sure, lol.

This is an original car not painted.

If they use a Dynacorn hood make sure they change the arch to match fenders and then spot weld the hem in a few places to keep it there and then seam seal it. Don't just assume they will do that. Dynacorn leaves the hem not welded for that reason so it can be fit to the car.

If you want an original Ford hood I have a spare, PM me.

Again glad to see you get to keep the car. Hope the back gets in shape also.

Thanks so much for all the info David! Yes I am going to make sure they do the hood correct. I knew right off the bat mine was wrong when I bought it, but it wasn’t a deal changer. 

The guy doing my car has an original 71 429 car, so he knows the correct pattern. 

I didn’t know that about the repo hoods, but will definitely ask them about it and how they do them.

You also need to be sure they remove all the black E-coat from the repo hood. Rust hides under that on most panels and in years to come can pop out. The underside they will just scotchbrite and paint but the exterior needs to be bare metal and go from there.

Ok thanks again for all the help and info, not only for me but the entire site!

 

[Ron Tanzi]

Glad you did not get hurt. I am so sorry about your car. I would try to do everything in my power to convince the adjuster not to total it. I have Hagerty insurance as well but thankfully have never needed them. In RI where I live the second the adjuster decides to total a car it gets reported to the state DMV and ends up with a salvage title if opt to keep the car. This creates red tape like you can not imagine. The car will be permanently tainted and will require a special certified shop to do a salvage repair. Then the state has to sign off after they inspect it in order to register it again. But the title will always be listed as salvage. I hope everything works out for you.

Ron