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boilermaster

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Ok guys & gals, here is my story and I wish to stick to it.
1971 FB with original FMX, swapped in a toploader from a 73Q car and now a Tremec TKX.
For the TKX, I went with the 10 spline unit and re-used my 11'' long clutch.
Now I am wanting to go with a diaphram clutch, and that is easy enough, but my question lies on the pedal end of the clutch.
I still have the pedal support that was original to the car, can I use it in conjunction with either the Mustang Steve or Scott Drake roller bearing kits ?.
My plans are to use the pedals and brake switch from the 73 Q.
Oddly enough when I installed all of this years ago , the parts were in great shape ( the plastic bushings were still intact) I doubt that would be the case today.
I would like to pre-build the assembly, but realize I can't set the bearings without a pedal or a bolt like the MDL kit offers, I am too cheap to buy a new pedal, but might be inclined to get a bolt that fits the bearings.
please help, I am getting old and my left leg ain't getting any longer.
Boilermaster
 
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1971 Mustang Mach 1, M code, 4 speed.
Mine of course was a manual car from the get-go, so I'm not familiar with any differences between auto trans cars and manual.
I opted for the Mustang Steve version of clutch bearing kit. It saved me some work, but to be honest, being a machinist, I could have easily made my own. I still had to grind an angle on the bearing carriers to allow for the draft angle on the bracket. Overall, it has worked now for several years without any problems. The SD version may work better for you, but I have no experience with that set-up.
Don't forget, your pedal needs a stop to limit the up travel. You won't have the helper spring that manual cars had with long finger clutches, so that's one thing you won't have to pee around with.
Here's a sketch of the original set up for manual trans. It may give you some ideas.
Also, as I was retaining the original linkages, I installed bronze oil-lite bushings at all joints to get rid of those stupid plastic things. works waaay better now with less pedal effort.
 

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boilermaster

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Thanks Hemikiller, always value what you have to say.
Although I am not looking forward to this task, it will be nice to prefab this setup.
Will give a try before I pull the TKX and swap pressure plates.
Everything else in my system has spherical bearings and hiem joints.
when I did this the first time I was well a little younger.
Boilermaster
 

boilermaster

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Stanglover,
I should be able to come up with an adjustable stop with a rubber damper at my local hardware store.
 
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Stanglover,
I should be able to come up with an adjustable stop with a rubber damper at my local hardware store.
I may still have something that could work for you, basically what I used on mine. When I worked, I used all sorts of rubber stops or fasteners, strangely some found their way home with me.
PM me if you want help with that, cost of mail only. Can't guarantee I have anything suitable without checking my "stock", but I'll look.
 
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1971 J Code Mach 1
1972 H Code Mach 1
I'm cheap.

I used this kit
SD 378200-K Snip.JPG

The holes in the support are larger than the bushing holders, so you have to get them centered and then hold them in place while you tack them in. I found a bolt that went through the pedal, and stuck a washer as a spacer between the edges of the pedal pivot and the inside of the support to space stuff before welding.
Clutch Support Bushing Holder.jpg
 

boilermaster

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Um, ok,
I understand that I can use the automatic transmission support.
That support WAS for 4 wheel manual drum brakes.
I now have power brakes with disc on front.
I know about the differences in the brake pedal and the brake pedal switch.
What I don't know is, does the 1973 mustang with power brakes share the same shaft as the brake pedal or is it separate as the 1971 with A/T and 4 wheel drum brakes are ?
If they are separate, do the shaft holes have a different location ?.
I did this swap years ago and for the life of me ,I can't remember..
Please help, that Brown truck will be at my door any minute and I don't want to be welding the wrong pedal hanger.
Boilermaster
 

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