exploding oil filter, Please Help!!

[turtle5353]

My 408 seems to like to idle a little high. Around 1000rpm. it drops to around 650 in gear. If I turn it down any more than that it wants to stall in gear??

 

[jpaz]

That's great news Omie! So glad you got it all figured out. Hope all the problems are done and you can have some tire roasting fun!

 

[basstrix]

Glad to hear you got it up and running....and no more exploding oil filters!

It sounds like you're connecting your vacuum advance to manifold vac instead of ported vac. For a performance oriented engine, I think you'll want a progressive timing curve..which is what you'll get using ported vacuum.

I'm not familiar with the carb you're running, but you should also be able to back off the idle screw such that the throttle plates close completely and make it impossible for the engine to run. Take a close look and make sure both primary and secondary plates are able to close completely...a quick check to see if it's the throttle cable is to back off the idle speed screw until the throttle plate just stops moving, then disconnect the throttle cable and see if it has closed farther. You're basically using the idle screw as a gauge/point of reference.

 

[TommyK]

If the vacuum advance is having an effect at idle then either it is connected to a full time source (manifold) as Basstrix stated or the primary butterflies are too far open exposing the ported vacuum orifice. For initial tuning I would disconnect the vacuum line and plug the vacuum source. Get the carb base lined and the engine broken in and then add the vacuum advance and continue tuning.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

One other thing to check is that the throttle cable/linkage is letting the carburetor close completely. I had to bent the mounting bracket a bit on mine to allow it to function properly.

 

[4mm]

WooHoo!

 

[barnett468]

I just have to figure out the tuning, It seems to want to idle a little high. I set it at 16 deg. initial and it runs great, but when I hook up the vacuum advance the idle soars to over 1000 rpm. I turned the curb idle screw all the way down and can't seem to get the idle down. I have the Pro Systems carb on their, will an engine like mine run at a bit higher idle? Cam specs are: .594 In, .611 Ex., Adv. Dur. 273 In. 279 Ex., [email protected] 221 In. 227 Ex. Lobe sep. 112. Also, what the best way to set the air/fuel mixture screws? Where is a good place to start with them?

What displacement is your engine?

Is that a roller cam?

You should definitely get that to idle below 1000 rpm on a 351 and it will idle lower the bigger the engine is.

You need to get the throttle blades closed enough so the carb is on the idle circuit . I posted some info regarding that on your vacuum port thread.

Need to know what distributor you have.

.

 

[Omie01]

I think I went about the initial tuning all wrong, I was starting at 16 deg initial before hooking up vacuum, I think I have to start at 6 to 8 deg initial, get it idling, then go from there. I am in the process of re-torquing the heads and re-setting the rockers. I called Pro Systems yesterday and found the inside tube IS ported vacuum, the outside one is manifold vacuum. I will keep everybody posted!!

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

I think I went about the initial tuning all wrong, I was starting at 16 deg initial before hooking up vacuum, I think I have to start at 6 to 8 deg initial, get it idling, then go from there. I am in the process of re-torquing the heads and re-setting the rockers. I called Pro Systems yesterday and found the inside tube IS ported vacuum, the outside one is manifold vacuum. I will keep everybody posted!!

You're fine at 14 - 16 deg initial before vacuum kicks in. That's the whole idea of ported vacuum, Depending on the build, every engine has its sweet spot. Mine has always been 14.5 deg initial with zero ported vacuum which hits total of 36 deg advance at 2800 rpm.

 

[Paul4425]

I just had a very similar situation. Went to do the first start on my 72 Q code and blew the oil filter gasket. It didn’t start due to the distributor not being advanced enough, but still had the pressure to blow the seal. My first thought was that the seal was bad or installed incorrectly. Did a reset, cleaned up the oil, installed the filter taking extra care with the seal. Same thing, and engine still didn’t start.

This is when I started getting worried.

Came inside and did some research. Previously I haven’t posted much on the site, but did a lot of reading. I came across this thread and couldn’t look past the similarities.

My set-up was as follows…

-Standard flow, Melling oil pump (M84A)

-Castrol GTX 10W-30

-FRAM Filter

I called my engine builder and explained the situation, along with my thoughts and what I read on this thread. He thought my analysis was correct (stuck or clogged relief valve) but suggested to get it started and see what pressures I was getting, while he called Melling to see if they had any explanation.

Guess what…same thing, although this time I advanced the distributor enough to get it turned over (for about 3 seconds before the oil flow from the filter demanded I shut it down)! Big mess, still didn’t get a pressure reading, but I was convinced I knew the problem…and I did get to hear it run for the first time which was inspiring, even if it was only for a few seconds!

Couldn’t get ahold of my builder after this so I decided it was time for action. It needed a new pump, and if I started immediately I could finish it that day. Picked up the same pump at O’Reilly’s for $45, $25 in new oil, $8 WIC filter and started in.

I jacked the engine and used wood blocks between the engine mounts to get the pan off. Fairly painless, just time consuming (especially without help), and my headers made a few bolts difficult. Still probably quicker then disconnecting everything and pulling the motor.

Replaced the pump, reinstalled everything, and had it set-up for another try at the first start in just under 6 hrs. Put her to bed and went in for the first meal of the day at 2300!

First start was this morning, and everything went as planned! Started right up, filter stayed on the car, no puddles of oil flowing from underneath.

Got a call from my builder shortly after saying Mellings would replace the pump for free and to give their tech line a call. 1(800) 635-5464. I spoke with George and he gave me the same story. Said he would send me a pump and that he would like the faulty pump back so they could see what the problem was. Because I jumped the gun and already bought one, he said to go through O’Reilly’s and file a parts and labor claim (if you don’t Mellings will likely NOT get the pump back, it will just go to scrap if it is only a replacement). The other benefit to filing the claim, I should also get paid for the 6 hrs of labor, all the oil that now stains my driveway, and the new filter. Going in later today to try this out (hopefully no hassle).

All in all, a PITA, but I got paid to be a mechanic on my own car yesterday and got to see my car run for the first time today.

-Paul

 

[timachone]

Paul,

thank you for sharing your story with us - awesome! That shows once more how some small faults in some material in replacement parts affects the whole thing! Glad you did it - even alone - congratz :bravo:

 

[barnett468]

I think I went about the initial tuning all wrong, I was starting at 16 deg initial before hooking up vacuum, I think I have to start at 6 to 8 deg initial, get it idling, then go from there.

Disconnect the distributor vacuum hose and never, ever plug it in again.

 

[Heylemiku]

Hello

Does somebody know what is the exact color code for the Eleanor Mustang in the 1974 film?

Wikipedia says it was not a yellow gold ford color, some forums said a generic school bus yellow.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[timachone]

Please introduce yourself in the introduction-section before spam-attacking every thread with your quest for color... Then this section

http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-aesthetics-interior-and-exterior

would be the right to ask!

Thank you!