Fan/Shroud opinions

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Omie01

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Location
Minnesota, USA
My Car
1972 H code fastback Boss 351 clone
I bought a triple core radiator and now my fan shroud has about a 1" gap on both sides, is this going to be a big problem for cooling?, or do I just try to move my fans around to see what works best. I have 2 fans, a Flexalite 1717, and a Hayden 7 blade flex fan. The Hayden seems to move more air, but I don't want to explode a fan, so I would like to run the Flexalite because it's supposed to be an 8000 rpm fan, but it barely has any pitch to the blades. Does anybody know if there is a flush mount shroud that would fit my radiator? It has the same mounts and dimensions as the original, it just has the third row. I have not driven the car on the street yet so I'm not sure how it cools, just looking for some insight to proper cooling. Thanks again everybody!!!

 
Omie01,

Who made your new radiator? A 1968 mustang friend who bought a nice 302 stroker motor had the Champion 3 core radiator and it to change it out due to cooling problems. Even though it as 3 core radiator, the cross tubes were not adiquate enough to transfer the heat from the coolant. He called the 302 stroker manufacture and they recommended the Griffin Performance 2 core aluminum radiator. He stated that since he changed it, his stroker operates around 180 degrees.

http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details4.php?PartID=180&year=73&make=Ford&model=Mustang&select_Main_Group=1973&select_Sub_Group=Ford&select_Sub_Group_model=Mustang&select_Sub_Group_Engine=31%20x%2018.63&select_Sub_Group_Transmission=TOC&key_id=8-70087

Summit -

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-8-00087/overview/year/1973/make/ford/model/mustang

Lets us know!

mustang7173

 
I'm not sure I follow your description- the "one inch gap on both sides" is that at the shroud to radiator? If so, you can just get a couple of strips of flashing and rivet them to the shroud. You could use aluminum or even plastic if you can scrounge up something of the appropriate size.

If you are talking about the fit of the fan in the shroud opening, then you probably need to change the length of the fan spacer to get the fan to fit properly.

A picture would be helpful

 
If your opening is that much bigger than the fan, I would try the flex a lite and see if it does run hot . It may work just fine even if the shroud opening is a bit too big . You can also buy a 1" bigger fan if you want.

If you have a hot running prob, it may be the bypass system and not the fan if the bypass is the stock type . I would also run a high flow t stat with that big rad . It might run hot with a standard flow one.


.

Ignition timing can also affect temp.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Go to pick 'n' pull, take your tape measure along, and look for electric fans. Lincoln Mark 8s move a lot of air. Other popular ones are Taurus and Contour.

 
I bought a triple core radiator and now my fan shroud has about a 1" gap on both sides, is this going to be a big problem for cooling?, or do I just try to move my fans around to see what works best. I have 2 fans, a Flexalite 1717, and a Hayden 7 blade flex fan. The Hayden seems to move more air, but I don't want to explode a fan, so I would like to run the Flexalite because it's supposed to be an 8000 rpm fan, but it barely has any pitch to the blades. Does anybody know if there is a flush mount shroud that would fit my radiator? It has the same mounts and dimensions as the original, it just has the third row. I have not driven the car on the street yet so I'm not sure how it cools, just looking for some insight to proper cooling. Thanks again everybody!!!
ok i read this 3 times and am still confused.

How big is the opening for your fan?

is your shroud 1" too short on both sides to cover the entire radiator core?

if it is too short and this rad is the same width as your orig then it was too short n that rad also.

does the shroud sit flush against the rad or is it spaced 1" away from the rad.

we need the exact dimensions of your rad core.

i would not ever use a flex fan.

flex a lite makes an 18" fan if you need or want a bigger one . summit racing has them.

.


You "should" not have a cooling prob if the shroud is 1" too short on both sides.

a stock type shroud or swailed/pented shroud will work better than an aftermarket flat one that isnt very tall/high.

most types of fans should be at least 1/3rd of their depth into the shroud.

 
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Ok, here are pics of what I mean, with where the radiator mounts now the shroud is about a 1/2" higher, and it has about a 1" gap on each side. Which caused me to have to run a 1" smaller fan so there is no contact. The original was 18 1/4", now have to run a 17". The one on the motor is a Hayden flex, The other is a Flexalite 1717.DSCI0206.JPGDSCI0205.JPGDSCI0202.JPG I have 2 different spacers, the original 3", and an after market 2". I am going to try to make some walls for the side gaps that rivet to the shroud and I would like to run the heavy duty flexalite and try to get it as close to the radiator as possible. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. PS, I don't want to go electric unless I absolutely have to.

 
Do not put extensions on . it will block forced air flow and create a zone that is somewhat ineffective at ALL speeds.

There is around a 1/4" gap between the shroud and the rad . you can get single sided 1/4" or 3/8" thick adhesive soft foam weatherstrip in a roll from home depot to stick on the rad then install the shroud and it will trap it and keep it in place.

do not run your fan close to the rad, it will defeat the purpose of the shroud . i already mentioned where it should be positioned and someone else might have also.

if you have more than 1" clearance between the fan and the hole in the shroud, get an 18" fan.

 
Omie01,

According to the your fan shroud part number, D1ZE-8146-AA , (F) Mustang (F- w/XC & w/A/C). The Fan spacer, according to the parts book, states that it should be 2-5/8 inches tall. (C4AZ-8546-G).

You could swap out the fan spacer, say from a 1971 429 CJ/SCJ engine that is 2 – 1/8 inch tall (C8SZ-8546-D). Thus pulling the fan back from the radiator to help create more air suction.

Mustangs Unlimited has a fan spacer 65-73 that is 2- ¼ inches tall.

https://www.mustangsunlimited.com

/search_sorted.asp?CatKey=EMUSTANG&Keywords=fan+spacer

Radiator Air deflectors

This may work for your application. Not sure on how to attach them.

http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordpart.php?number=C5AZ-8348-PR

http://cgfordparts.com/wwwsectionfiles/cg_cat2_cooling.html#RADIATOR-SEALS

Fan - That is an 18 inch fan?

2ai2bl4.jpg


15q5jx5.jpg


33eohnd.jpg


notrx2.jpg


Source: Ford Master Parts Catalog , CR: May 1975

mustang7173

 
I would wait until you know you have a problem to worry about it. Your radiator seems to be new, you have a shroud and the fan looks to be close to the right spot (I've heard that half the width of the blade should be in the shroud). Get some time on it and figure out if you need to invest more into it...

But I'm pretty lazy so your results/ opinion may vary...

 
Well I closed the gap on the sides, and swapped over to the 8000 rpm fan, I'm just going to see how it goes from here. Thanks for all the input!!

 
Well I closed the gap on the sides, and swapped over to the 8000 rpm fan, I'm just going to see how it goes from here. Thanks for all the input!!
What gap did you close?

If you put a plate over the exposed part of the radiator, you just reduced its cooling ability as I previously mentioned.

 
What gap did you close?

If you put a plate over the exposed part of the radiator, you just reduced its cooling ability as I previously mentioned.
+1, air have flown through those gaps while you were moving, now air won't flow through at any time.

 
There were gaps on the side of the shroud where it originally fit tight against the radiator, I figure if it was that way from the factory it should be that way with the new radiator. The new setup seems to be drawing air through, Its just at idle it could be a bit better.

 
It's hard to tell from the pictures how far the shroud sets back from the radiator . If it's half an inch or more filling in the gap on the sides should be OK, and allow air to be pulled (and pushed) through the entire surface area.

 
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