manual steering

[164runner]

been having problems with my power steering. after 1 1/2 year of dealing with all the work involved and expense, i had enough. going to convert to manual steering. i found the correct crank and water pump pulleys, i need a manual steering box and pitman arm, the center link are the same, from what i have found out. the only other thing i can think of is the rag joint, i think its different. any other things i need ?

 

[Bentworker]

Strong arms?

 

[Stanglover]

Very strong arms. You'll regret it I'm sure. While you get more feel for the road while actually driving, slow driving, parking etc. will be a challenge especially if you're like most of us, OLD!
When I bought my car, it was manual everything. It was a supposed 1 of 6 car and very original apart from a repaint and some visual upgrades. However, after driving it for a year or so, I couldn't wait to find the pulleys needed and ditch the manual steering and front brakes. Since then, I've learned how to rebuild PS boxes and pumps. I would not even consider going back to manual steering.
That said, you just mention having problems with your steering, but you don't say what the problem is. If your PS pox is shot and you're not up to rebuilding it yourself, I think I'd buy from RedHead.
On the rag joint, I can't be sure without checking the m/b I have, but I can let you know if no-one else chimes in.

EDIT: Thanks Hemikiller, you saved me looking through my box of "old bits and pieces"

 

[Hemikiller]

I ran manual steering on my 71 for a bit, and it was really no fun. The steering effort was okay, but the ultra-slow 5-change lock to lock was miserable for a car that handles well.

You'll need the rag joint for the smaller input shaft on the M/S box, it's the same joint as 67-70 Mustangs with fixed column, assuming your car doesn't have tilt column.

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[giantpune]

I had a leaky steering gear. The system wouldn't hold fluid. I pulled the power steering belt off and had manual steering for about 15yr. Thats all you need to do the conversion. Take the belt off.

Recently i got around to replacing the gear and the pump. Power steering is definitely nicer.

 

[BigBlue]

been having problems with my power steering. after 1 1/2 year of dealing with all the work involved and expense, i had enough. going to convert to manual steering. i found the correct crank and water pump pulleys, i need a manual steering box and pitman arm, the center link are the same, from what i have found out. the only other thing i can think of is the rag joint, i think its different. any other things i need ?

I think you have it covered.
As far as the complaints about manual steering, it's subjective. I absolutely LOVE the feel. The communication between car and driver is unmatched with a manual setup, and feels leagues above the super numb stock 70's power steering. That said, most factory manual boxes are slowwww. It's like 400 turns to lock and feels more like sailing a ship than driving a car. So I definitely recommend eventually upgrading to a quick ratio box if you do go that route.
And yes, parking sucks. Who cares. Be a man, work out those arms.

 

[Stanglover]

I think you have it covered.
As far as the complaints about manual steering, it's subjective. I absolutely LOVE the feel. The communication between car and driver is unmatched with a manual setup, and feels leagues above the super numb stock 70's power steering. That said, most factory manual boxes are slowwww. It's like 400 turns to lock and feels more like sailing a ship than driving a car. So I definitely recommend eventually upgrading to a quick ratio box if you do go that route.
And yes, parking sucks. Who cares. Be a man, work out those arms.

I love your reply, I got a good chuckle and it bought back some memories.
I will totally agree that the feel is waay better while driving, no argument there, BUT I've had two cars with manual steering and changed them both to power.
For me, the deal breaker was trying to back up my Mach1's into parking spots at car shows or even just a parallel park. No lack of strength, more like lack of patience.

 

[164runner]

once car gets to 55 mph, around 2500rpm car starts making a high pitch whine. pump and steering box rebuilt twice each, converted to saginaw p pump, sound went away but came back. tried different steering box, no luck. new high pressure line and return line replaced. talk to turn one steering, was told these pumps work, but are noisy. all pumps today and parts come from china, nothing made in the US.

 

[164runner]

running power steering fluid, not type F. If i change rearend gears to lower rpm, then i open a can of worms with the cam and converter in the car

 

[Hemikiller]

IMO, I'd talk to Dan @ Chockostang. He doesn't deal with the Saginaw boxes, but he does do the Ford/Thompson pump our cars are equipped with. He might be able to offer some insight as to why you continue to have a noisy pump. If it's happened with two pumps of different manufacture, then it's the box or hoses, not the pump.

 

[Stanglover]

Didn't we deal with this issue awhile back? Or was that someone else with a noisy pump.
Try Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak. It also stops whine and squealing. It is compatible with all p/s fluids AND Ford type f ATF. This stuff stopped a small leak on my pump and the system does seem to run quieter, not that it was that noisy before.

 

[164runner]

Didn't we deal with this issue awhile back? Or was that someone else with a noisy pump.
Try Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak. It also stops whine and squealing. It is compatible with all p/s fluids AND Ford type f ATF. This stuff stopped a small leak on my pump and the system does seem to run quieter, not that it was that noisy before.

yes we did. after i changed over to the saginaw pump, noise went away, then came back. i dont know what to do for it, other than change it over to manual steering so i can at least drive it. its embarrassing to drive with this noise. its not like its a piece of junk thats been pulled out of a barn

 

[Stanglover]

yes we did. after i changed over to the saginaw pump, noise went away, then came back. i dont know what to do for it, other than change it over to manual steering so i can at least drive it. its embarrassing to drive with this noise. its not like its a piece of junk thats been pulled out of a barnView attachment 65425

This is weird! You changed to a different type of pump, noise went away, but then came back. That doesn't add up to me. Do you have a mechanics stethoscope? that may help pin point the actual source of the noise, which is obviously really bad from your account.
From what I have learned from my own playing around with ps boxes and pumps, the only source I can think of for noise in the box would be the control valve. You said your box was a pro rebuild, so I'm wondering if the h/p check valve is installed correctly in the h/p circuit. That might (and I say might) cause a back flow of high pressure fluid in the pump. As for the pump itself, I'm only just getting to understand the Ford type, but from what I've seen, tolerances are very tight between the internal moving parts. If ware is too much, then moving parts will come into contact and for sure "squeal". The Lucas product may add some relief, but only a band-aid temporary fix.
As I've said many times, I'm no expert on this, but things come to mind that may or may not be the actual cause. My pump and box that I rebuilt run fine with no noise other than what would be expected.
If it's none of the above, I'm all ears and eyes to know what the noise is. Don't give up on it just yet.

 

[Greg]

One thing I don't like about having power steering is when you have a rim blow steering wheel. Much more honking will likely happen.

 

[164runner]

This is weird! You changed to a different type of pump, noise went away, but then came back. That doesn't add up to me. Do you have a mechanics stethoscope? that may help pin point the actual source of the noise, which is obviously really bad from your account.
From what I have learned from my own playing around with ps boxes and pumps, the only source I can think of for noise in the box would be the control valve. You said your box was a pro rebuild, so I'm wondering if the h/p check valve is installed correctly in the h/p circuit. That might (and I say might) cause a back flow of high pressure fluid in the pump. As for the pump itself, I'm only just getting to understand the Ford type, but from what I've seen, tolerances are very tight between the internal moving parts. If ware is too much, then moving parts will come into contact and for sure "squeal". The Lucas product may add some relief, but only a band-aid temporary fix.
As I've said many times, I'm no expert on this, but things come to mind that may or may not be the actual cause. My pump and box that I rebuilt run fine with no noise other than what would be expected.
If it's none of the above, I'm all ears and eyes to know what the noise is. Don't give up on it just yet.

something i found last night was the check valve was stuck open. tried to move it with no luck, i dont know if it was fully open or not. after a few phone calls, was told they allways remove them when they rebuild they steering boxes. was able to remove and reinstall the insert to get the check valve out. i get the car back together in a couple days. keep my fingers crossed and give you a update.

 

[Stanglover]

something i found last night was the check valve was stuck open. tried to move it with no luck, i dont know if it was fully open or not. after a few phone calls, was told they allways remove them when they rebuild they steering boxes. was able to remove and reinstall the insert to get the check valve out. i get the car back together in a couple days. keep my fingers crossed and give you a update.

Check valve stuck open!! That's odd. I changed the brass insert and installed a new check valve and spring. The spring is tapered and need to go in large dia. down. The check valve goes in points down.

 

[164runner]

spring and valve in correct position. when you pushed on it, it stayed down would not raise up

 

[164runner]

drove car today a good 1 1/2 hours, all good