Motor and Trans Installation

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Joined
Jul 3, 2011
Messages
753
Reaction score
102
Location
Northwest Jersey
My Car
1973 Mach 1 original 351C C6 Now 460-4spd top loader
1930 Ford Model A 351C-AOD
All,
Has anyone installed their engine & manual trans in one piece ? I have a 460 and toploader going in and have always done it separately.
As always thanks for the help...
Thanks, Jay
 
Just put my Cleveland and T5z in as one a couple days ago. Easy as pie. I always do it this way. Was just me and one other guy, took all of 30-45 min. Hope this helps. A few suggestions is check the weight, lift height, and reach or your picker so you know it will accommodate. A load leveler works great. We did it with just a carb plate though.
 
I put my 351W and C4 in together. I honestly cant say that it was any easier or harder than putting the engine in first and then the transmission in from the bottom.

The long nose on our cars can be a bit of an obstacle, especially the 73 with the longer bumper. With the few cherry pickers I've used, the small part on the front of the jack hits the bumper before you can push the cherry picker as far back as you'd want to. It helps if you can lift the car up. Raise the bumper a couple inches, and that lets the cherry picker go rearward a couple more inches.

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I have also heard of guys going in from the side, over the fender.
 
I learned to put the rear of the car up as high as you can. A 460 and Toploader will be workout on the load leveler.

With the rear of the car high, the core support is easier to clear.

Kcmash
 
I would couple them together outside the car. This will verify the clutch disk is correctly centered for the transmission, then separate and install independently.

Unless you have a VERY good hoist Taft us a LOT of weight to dangle overs the car and you will have to have the arm out at where it will be the weakest.

It might also tip forward depending on where the weight is relative to where the front wheels are if there is any incline where you are working
 
I have done a 351/FMX that way. Keep the nose low to the ground (but not so low you can’t roll the engine hoist legs under it. Raise the back of the car higher and support on jack stands. It will be easier if the car is “raked”. Using something like an Oberg tilt lift with your engine hoist. You could also remove your front bumper and grill to make it a bit safer. Don’t overload your hoist.
 
If you're using the typical engine hoist, I'm more comfortable with the engine/bell going in first, then pop the transmission in afterwards. I made a new extended boom for my hoist so I didn't have to drop the bumper. I also hacked together a transmission cradle from scrap steel, one of the best tools I've ever made.

If you're using a gantry, chainfall or other type of overhead hoist, then pop it in as one.

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Ditto what others have said. I have done mine twice now and both times ,351C and manual trans, as a unit. The second time I did it, I only had a 1 ton hoist and had to strip the front end down to the rad support to get enough reach. A bit of a pita, but doable. I also use a low floor jack under the tailstock to assist is raising the trans as the engine drops down. I also used chains to hang the motor, but with the valve cover off. A carb plate would be better and a load leveler.
 
Either way is completely doable, and comes down to a matter of personal preference and equipment available.

Remember, engines and transmissions are very heavy and can cause significant injuries, including loss of fingers or worse. A transmission falling off a jack can break an arm, ribs, or skull. If you install them separately make sure the transmission is properly secured to the transmission jack or floor jack adapter. Chains are preferable for the engine hoist, straps can be cut on a sharp edge when there's a lot of tension on them.

Safety first!!! Think every step through, think about what could happen if something comes lose or slips. If you have a helper never allow them to get under the engine and try to guide it into place. Absolutely no adult beverages, even a beer or two, before or during the process, celebrate after it's all installed and secured.
 
Either way is completely doable, and comes down to a matter of personal preference and equipment available.

Remember, engines and transmissions are very heavy and can cause significant injuries, including loss of fingers or worse. A transmission falling off a jack can break an arm, ribs, or skull. If you install them separately make sure the transmission is properly secured to the transmission jack or floor jack adapter. Chains are preferable for the engine hoist, straps can be cut on a sharp edge when there's a lot of tension on them.

Safety first!!! Think every step through, think about what could happen if something comes lose or slips. If you have a helper never allow them to get under the engine and try to guide it into place. Absolutely no adult beverages, even a beer or two, before or during the process, celebrate after it's all installed and secured.
Welcome back Don. Great advice.
 
Update... I just finished the installation with help from my wife, daughter and future son in law. It went in in one piece which saves me a lot of under car time on my back for sure. I did have to raise the back of the car significantly for sure. I used a small chain block hung from a beam and a load lever which I think everyone should have for sure. Thanks for the assistance from all....
Thanks, Jay
 
Congrats! Our group of car guys had rented a shop with an I-beam that ran from peak to peak. We had a chain fall and a trolley strung up on it. I miss that tool, it was a game changer for the stuff we did.
 
Thank you... When I bought my house in the early 90's, I found that the garage had an 8x8 oak beam from side to side. I wanted to be able to pull anything with it so it drilled a hole through it and put flat plates on top and bottom with 3/4" all thread through it up to the peak where I lag bolted a piece of 4" channel that I also bolted through. I have pulled many 429/460's with C6's, lifted car bodies and equipment buckets without any issues.
Wait until the next owner of my home see's that and think to himself WTF.....
Thanks, Jay
 
I installed my engine and manual transmission as a unit. I had the front bumper off, front wheels up a couple of inches and rear jacked up. Key to a good installation is go slow and have a helping hand if at all possible. Number one priority is safety.….as mentioned by several others.
 

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Key to a good installation is go slow and have a helping hand if at all possible. Number one priority is safety.….as mentioned by several others.
Counterpoint:
The faster you go, the less time there is for anything bad to happen! Hurry up and get that motor in before you drop in on your toes.
 
All,
Has anyone installed their engine & manual trans in one piece ? I have a 460 and toploader going in and have always done it separately.
As always thanks for the help...
Thanks, Jay
Hello,

I put engine and transmission in together. I have the 351c and the top loader transmission. I was using the cheap harbor freight cherry picker and it worked fine. The only thing is you have to take the front bumper off bc the boon wasn't long enough. If you had a nicer cherry picker it'd be quicker.
 
The last engine I installed in my Mach was done using a cherry picker, and the trans was already in place, being supported with a floor jack to help line things up. My car it is a tad lower in front than stock, and the front crossmember can hit the legs of the hoist. I think my new engine will be suspended from one of those Harbor Freight "A" frame gantrys, which I'm going to buy. I need the "A" frame any way for removing and installing engines in my boats. I have built the engines for every car I've owned, and for me, I find removing the hood an easier route to go, that shoehorning the engine into a tight space . It's also much easier to hook up all the other items in and around the engine, without the hood there. I just put a thick moving blanket on the roof of the car, and, with a friend's help, place the hood gently upside-down on the roof. My roof doesn't cave in, seems to do just fine. You could always stand the hood up against the wall of your garage if room permits and no one is going to kick it. I leave it off until the car is running for a few days, and all adjustments, leak checks, and such are final. Here's a shot of my big 455 Mondello Olds going into my old 442.....probably '88 I think.
 

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Thank you... When I bought my house in the early 90's, I found that the garage had an 8x8 oak beam from side to side. I wanted to be able to pull anything with it so it drilled a hole through it and put flat plates on top and bottom with 3/4" all thread through it up to the peak where I lag bolted a piece of 4" channel that I also bolted through. I have pulled many 429/460's with C6's, lifted car bodies and equipment buckets without any issues.
Wait until the next owner of my home see's that and think to himself WTF.....
Thanks, Jay
I lag bolted two 2x12s across 4 ceiling joists. Added a backup channel and a 3/4” bolt for the hoist. Used a 1 ton chain hoist for everything from 351s to 6 cylinder outboards.
 
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