My windows rattle on every bump in the road. Which parts do I need to look at?

[giantpune]

I'm starting to chase down all the different sounds my car makes and get them squared away.  Some of those noises are coming from the doors.  Every time I hit a bump, the doors make a bunch of noise.  With the driver's panel off and the window rolled down, I can see the glass is rocking distal and proximal.  On the inside of the glass, there's some little arms with some thin black foam.  From there, it rocks outwards about an inch and the glass smacks the outer skin of the door.

What sort of parts are supposed to be in there to keep the glass from flopping around like this?  I'm not certain if there's supposed to be something else inside the door to block it, or perhaps my window regulator allows the window to roll down further than normal.  If the top edge of the window is not below the weather strip, then that would prevent the glass from moving around so much.

 

[computercarguy]

Going from memory: Besides the actual mounting hardware (plastic wears out) and the inner and outer door seals at the top of the door that help keep down rattling, there are two adjustable felt tipped braces that hold pressure on the glass. Picture of one on eBay. Looks like felt is falling off.

 

[giantpune]

Going from memory: Besides the actual mounting hardware (plastic wears out) and the inner and outer door seals at the top of the door that help keep down rattling, there are two adjustable felt tipped braces that hold pressure on the glass. Picture of one on eBay. Looks like felt is falling off.

View attachment 52021

Ok.  So I do have those in the door and mine have the felt on them.  Those are one of the things my glass is bouncing between.

My windows roll down far enough that the glass goes down into the doors and below the weatherstripping and rubber seals at the top of the door.  That allows the glass to bounce around.  

 

[mjseakan]

There is a bolt in the middle of the door which can be adjusted to limit how far the window can be rolled down. If I remember correctly the adjustment slot is about 2-3 in long. Maybe the bolt has loosened up a little and slid to the bottom of the slot? That would cause the window to roll down further than you want. Sorry I don't have the panels off right now or I'd take a picture for you.

Mike

 

[Don C]

The assembly manual has 14 or 15 pages devoted to the window installation and adjustment in the doors. They have plastic guides and anti-rattlers that wear out and/or break.

 

[MikeGriese]

Definitely get the manual.  Adjusting windows is fiddly, and you can get them to stop rattling, but then they may leak water, or whistle while you are driving.  It's a lot easier to follow the instructions than just diving in, even with the advice of the forums.

 

[giantpune]

Anybody have a link to this assembly manual?

 

[Don C]

This is the one I got:

CD, FACTORY ASSEMBLY MANUALS, 1971-1973, 6 VOLUME SET - #L-FAM-7173A - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com)

 

[giantpune]

Its a CD?  Ha!  Thats almost as classic as our cars.  I may have to buy a usb CD drive, as none of our computers even come with a CD slot anymore.

Thanks for the link, though.  That gets me on the right track.

 

[Don C]

Yeah, I couldn't find a downloadable version, maybe you'll have better luck. I build my own computers, so no problem about a CD drive.

 

[giantpune]

Yeah, I couldn't find a downloadable version, maybe you'll have better luck. I build my own computers, so no problem about a CD drive.

I build my own computers, too.  Last time I bought a CD drive was a lightscribe DVD burner around 2004.  It was back when stores still sold spools of blank CDs to put in them.  Those things have pretty much gone the way of the 8track player.

Anyways, the manuals sound like they're worth having, even if i have to pony up the $20 for a cd drive to use one time.  I got the cds added to my shopping cart.  

 

[JoColtrane]

I put some extra material (carpet like) on the brace pictured in the 2nd post. To much and it'll inhibit the movement of the window. Not enough and the rattle will still be there. Get it right and not more rattle. Don't remember exactly what I used.

 

[MikeGriese]

Old fart alert!  Back when I bought the manuals, the only option was paper.  Which was a big improvement over stone tablets.

 

[giantpune]

I put some extra material (carpet like) on the brace pictured in the 2nd post. To much and it'll inhibit the movement of the window. Not enough and the rattle will still be there. Get it right and not more rattle. Don't remember exactly what I used.

I got in the door yesterday and started tweaking things.  Like @mjseakan mentioned, there was a slot in the bottom-middle of the door with a bolt in it to adjust.  I rolled the window down to where I thought it should stop, then loosened that bolt up and butted that stop up against the regulator arm and tightened it in place.  There are similar stops on the top corners of the door to adjust how the window sits when its up, but I didn't need to touch mine.

And the felt covered parts you're talking about, I loosened their bolts, and they can rotate which makes them move closer and further from the glass.  I adjusted mine so they press the window towards the rubber seal, but not so much they caused excess drag.  Then tightened their bolts down.

While I was in the door, I spread some wheel bearing grease on the parts that move.  Everything in there was bone dry and rubbing and grinding a bit.

 

[Grego]

My car is electric window optioned, but still has the same friction points as above.

I have adjusted the window with enough pressure from the friction pads to that the out rubber seals formed a tight seal across the entire window.

Note, this was quite an amount of pressure.

I used spray on lithium grease on all moving parts, works very well.

Side note, I do not wish upon anyone that has to fault find the wiring on these power window option cars, what a total pain, glade to be out the other side of it.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I missed this one in the past.
Too late now but a much better choice for the lube in the windows, wiper motors, power windows is Lucas Oil Red N Tacky #2 grease. It lasts longer than the old white grease. Was at a show this weekend and guy next to me in a Chevy said his power windows would hardly work. I had him try mine in my vert that had the Red N Tacky and he could not believe how smooth they were. They are manual but also use on PW. When I rebuild my wiper motors I use in there also. You can get in cartridge for grease gun, plastic tube. spray or cans.
If you take the window mechanics out and wash all the dried up white grease out and put the Lucas on you will be amazed at the difference. Thick felt works on the window guides. Bad thing is anything you put on the guides holds grit and you scratch the windows. https://lucasoil.com/products/grease/red-n-tacky-grease

 

[clevelandcoupe]

There are anti rattle devices installed on the guides for the windows that wear out. Don from Ohio Mustang has them usually. I installed them on my Mach and rattle is gone....

Thanks, Jay