Quickjack lifting points

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

If you ever get one you will wonder how you did without. If i am working under the dash I lift car up to waist high and I stand on the floor to work. When wiping car down I put on lift so I do not have to torture my crushed disc in my back. 

I just use blocks of wood between the frame rail and the upper control arms. I forget to take them out and drive down road and they come bouncing out, lol. I was at an estate sale and 2 post lift sold for hundreds of dollars daughter said her dad had used 6 or 7 times was brand new. 

When I took my Mach 1 apart to clean and detail it was on the lift pretty much all the time for 10 weeks. I am tall and bending over the fender to work on engine kills my bad back so I lift to best position. I could never have done it without the lift for sure.  Put less money in your car more in garage, lol. 

 

[c9zx]

Just as information, I have changed several clutches using my 4 post lift including 2016 and 2017 Mustang GTs. Also removed OEM exhaust on the same GTs on the 4 post lift. I have scissors lift for suspension, brakes, and body work. Chuck

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

How in the world did you get the exhaust off? We took off in one piece from front to bumper. 

 

[Grandmas73]

It's been a while but I finally got it. Home Depot of all places had a sale I could not pass on. While the 7k lb ver might be overkill now I am interested in a truck some day.

Here's a picture with wife's car, I'm gonna put the block at the torque boxes and make the block for the arms.

 

[MAD IRISHMAN]

I get the feeling that this forum like many others is just a way for a bunch of "know it alls" to argue over something.
Came on here to hopefully learn some things. But as I've seen it's dominated by certain people who are legends in their own minds!

 

[71ProjectJunk]

I get the feeling that this forum like many others is just a way for a bunch of "know it alls" to argue over something.
Came on here to hopefully learn some things. But as I've seen it's dominated by certain people who are legends in their own minds!

I have been a member of a lot of forums, and I am still a member of a lot of them, and I can tell you one thing for certain, this is the only forum I have been in where people are very respectful, don't insult each other, and really try to help their fellow enthusiast. There are some members here that are extremely knowledgeable on these cars, they can basically answer any question of the top of their heads, with factory part numbers, diagrams, photos etc... It is truly amazing the depth of knowledge of some of the guys here. I have never felt that any member here, even the incredibly knowledgeable ones feel like they are some type of legends, that they are supermen, or above the rest, or anything of the sort. They all seem very humble and ready to help. Now, having said that people do have their own opinions and preferences for certain things, and yes they will argue back and forth on what their opinion is on whether you should put spoilers on your car, or stripes, or lower it, or whatnot, but it has always been very respectful. I usually do not spend much time on forums because of peoples poor attitudes, lack of respect, and the inevitable "know it all's" that have no clue about what they are saying, but I have yet to see those types of attitudes here. I really enjoy my time here learning all I can, and helping others with what little knowledge I have been able to collect over the years of working in the automotive aftermarket, and some vehicles here and there.

 

[DAverkamp]

I get the feeling that this forum like many others is just a way for a bunch of "know it alls" to argue over something.
Came on here to hopefully learn some things. But as I've seen it's dominated by certain people who are legends in their own minds!

Hey how are you? Your handle is catchy and seems to be legit!
I'm relatively new here a for a few semi-inactive years but recently have committed to a lifetime membership to support the site as there is a wealth of knowledge on this platform IMO and I appreciate that.
I've been (Ken'd) once recently but not over my Mustang knowledge level, but it's ok because I can't control the dudes take on life nor do I care.
However, I am a tad curious as to why you replied to a carjack topic in Sept of last year to blast off randomly at the members here today?
I've sent wrong texts to the wrong person at times and felt like crap but apologized and ensured I would be better going forward so there you go, I'm just offering an experience in my life so perhaps you may consider that or not...

 

[Grandmas73]

Ford says torque boxes with the upper control arms blocked.

I talked with many local shops before I ordered a lift. They said if to just change oil a 4 post or a pit like most oil change shops have. If you were going to work on the car a 2 post was much better. If you go to the Ford dealers you will see very few 4 post. My son works in BMW and they use only 2 posts. Saleen uses 2 post. Why jack a car up 6 feet to jack a car up 6" on a 4 post? I am all for the easiest way.

We changed out clutch in my sons 2018 GT mustang saturday. Would been impossible on a 4 post. You have to remove the exhaust to the rear in one piece. Nothing in the way on 2 post but impossible on 4 post. Each has it's place if you are just changing oil 4 post if you are working on cars 2 post. Ask any local repair shop which is more versatile.

BTW I was going to do sort of an experiment on my 73 vert with lift. I was going to pull a string and see what the deflection was using the rockers and the torque boxes. I know if you open the doors when on lift you will not shut and that is a pretty much rust free California car.

Not everyone has room or height for a 2 or 4 post lift but something is much better than nothing.

Wow, I’m replying 4yrs later. Turns out you’re the only person that actually answered the asked question. Believe it or not it’s taken this long to actually get my car on the lift and it doesn’t fit. The spread between lift pads aren’t far apart enough to get under both front and rear torque boxes So when I try to use the pinch weld the drivers side rear block will crush the fuel line. At least it lifts all my other cars. I will probably just move the fuel line when I lift it and yes, I made some blocks for the front suspension BTW, did you ever do the deflectiontion test?

 

[pedstagn71]

Hi all,

I'm looking at the two piece lift from Quickjack or Bendpac (same I think).

When ordering you can spec solid lift blocks that I could use at the torque boxes or slotted blocks to be used on the rocker pinch weld. Given the choice, what's the preferred lifting point?

BTW This is for a 73 vert, I always lift with doors closed and top up. Stiff as I can keep her.

I'm leaning towards solid blocks on the torque boxes but I would like some experienced thoughts on this.

Thanks

I have and use the quick jack and have done the whole underside of the car with it. I put it under the torque boxes. I have used it to take the transmission out and back in numerous times

 

[tony-muscle]

I lift under the torque box on front and on the subframe connector on rear right where the torque box would be. If no subframe connector then on the torque box at rear as well.

 

[Grandmas73]

I have and use the quick jack and have done the whole underside of the car with it. I put it under the torque boxes. I have used it to take the transmission out and back in numerous times

What model did you get? Like I said, mine falls just short.

 

[pedstagn71]

What model did you get? Like I said, mine falls just short.

I can look at the model tonight I’m pretty sure it is the 6000lb lift. I’ll check to be sure

 

[pedstagn71]

I can look at the model tonight I’m pretty sure it is the 6000lb lift. I’ll check to be sure

I’ll check the model tonight I’m pretty sure it is the 6000lb lift

 

[pedstagn71]

I’ll check the model tonight I’m pretty sure it is the 6000lb lift

I have the bl5000 it’s a 5000lb lift. I’ve put a half ton p Chevy pickup on it and got all 4 tires off the ground to do the breaks

 

[Ripper679]

I'm running the 5000tlx. It's rad because I just park over them and pull them out to line up with the torque boxes when I need to lift them. I built my entire car in the garage, including paint..... these things save so much time. Only downside is you kinda need to crawl in or out from the front or rear of the car. I'd recommend.
just my .02

 

[Flatback72]

I'm running the 5000tlx. It's rad because I just park over them and pull them out to line up with the torque boxes when I need to lift them. I built my entire car in the garage, including paint..... these things save so much time. Only downside is you kinda need to crawl in or out from the front or rear of the car. I'd recommend.
just my .02

I'm seriously considering the quick jack based on your photos. Considering the quick jacks need to be slightly angled a bit to fit the pads under the front and rear torque boxes, do you experience any problems as they raise up caused by the change in the geometry between the two jacks between the lowered and raised position? I'm imagining as they lift that they will spread out from each other a little bit?

 

[pedstagn71]

I’ve had no issues with it moving. I even put it under my pickup cab and raised and lowered it to work on it

 

[Ripper679]

I'm seriously considering the quick jack based on your photos. Considering the quick jacks need to be slightly angled a bit to fit the pads under the front and rear torque boxes, do you experience any problems as they raise up caused by the change in the geometry between the two jacks between the lowered and raised position? I'm imagining as they lift that they will spread out from each other a little bit?

Yeah... i kinda was worried about that too. It actually works perfect, there is an offset however the plate wherebthe blocks go are wide enough to compensate. I think, based on the attached pic of the frame there is something like 1.84 inch difference on each side.... as in the rear subframe is 1.84 wider than the front subframe on each side. This rig is cool. What I did do is buy TWO extra sets of the appropriate rubber blocks that I use (the rubber blocking in a large tray that allows them to be moved around for more precise positioning). I bought two extra sets because each tray is large enough to hold 3 blocks each, so instead of one rubber lifting block for each end of the quickjack, I have 3 blocks on each end. It makes for better load dispersion on the subframes and allows you to still compensate for the offset, keeping the quickjacks parallel. I use the smaller blocks. If this is confusing, it will make sense when you see it in person.
I really do like it though. I leave mine stored under my car, (pushed to the center) and just park over them. I don't drive ON them, just over them and when I need them I just slide them out from the middle of the car into position, hook up the included quick connect lines and I'm off to the races.
Hope this helps.
Car seems steady.
I'll report back if it kills me and I die.

 

[Flatback72]

Yeah... i kinda was worried about that too. It actually works perfect, there is an offset however the plate wherebthe blocks go are wide enough to compensate. I think, based on the attached pic of the frame there is something like 1.84 inch difference on each side.... as in the rear subframe is 1.84 wider than the front subframe on each side. This rig is cool. What I did do is buy TWO extra sets of the appropriate rubber blocks that I use (the rubber blocking in a large tray that allows them to be moved around for more precise positioning). I bought two extra sets because each tray is large enough to hold 3 blocks each, so instead of one rubber lifting block for each end of the quickjack, I have 3 blocks on each end. It makes for better load dispersion on the subframes and allows you to still compensate for the offset, keeping the quickjacks parallel. I use the smaller blocks. If this is confusing, it will make sense when you see it in person.
I really do like it though. I leave mine stored under my car, (pushed to the center) and just park over them. I don't drive ON them, just over them and when I need them I just slide them out from the middle of the car into position, hook up the included quick connect lines and I'm off to the races.
Hope this helps.
Car seems steady.
I'll report back if it kills me and I die.

Great comprehensive information, thanks for the quick reply! I would plan to do the same as you and leave them on the ground and park the car over the top of them. I don't have the space or roof height for an normal hoist and all of the other similar lifts to the quick jack are joined by large bits of steel in the middle making it difficult to get under the centre of the car.

Great tip about the extra rubber pads to spread the load; if I buy the quick jack I will definitely get the extra pads.

The only downside for me is the price the local supplier is asking - $3450 Australian dollars plus whatever it costs to freight them 1000 miles from Queensland to where I live in Victoria (though the price is understandable somewhat when you consider our poor AUD/USD exchange rate, suppliers shipping cost to Australia, and local 10% tax).

But, it is a long-term investment that will likely be worth it - I plan on keeping my Mustang until the day I kick the bucket or get carted off to a home, and I do want to be able to get under it easily for general maintenance repair work whenever I want to!

 

[Ripper679]

Great comprehensive information, thanks for the quick reply! I would plan to do the same as you and leave them on the ground and park the car over the top of them. I don't have the space or roof height for an normal hoist and all of the other similar lifts to the quick jack are joined by large bits of steel in the middle making it difficult to get under the centre of the car.

Great tip about the extra rubber pads to spread the load; if I buy the quick jack I will definitely get the extra pads.

The only downside for me is the price the local supplier is asking - $3450 Australian dollars plus whatever it costs to freight them 1000 miles from Queensland to where I live in Victoria (though the price is understandable somewhat when you consider our poor AUD/USD exchange rate, suppliers shipping cost to Australia, and local 10% tax).

But, it is a long-term investment that will likely be worth it - I plan on keeping my Mustang until the day I kick the bucket or get carted off to a home, and I do want to be able to get under it easily for general maintenance repair work whenever I want to!

Yeah, for me, they save so much time. This is mostly because my car sits LOW. so it kinda becomes a pain to get a jack under the front quarter pumping it....... I just got tired of positioning jack stands, necessity.... no bit it sure is a NICEssity! That said, pulled your own measurements, I have a thing going for me that you may not. I'm running Maier subframe connectors. His connectors, like some others on the market (maybe global west? Etc...) weld on so the subframe attaches to the outside of the front subframe and runs along the car to the BOTTOM of the rear subframe. So I place my block on the front and rear subframe connectors.... because of how they mount, they kinda form a straight line, or straight enough to minimize the offset. I'm thinking about cutting a piece or two of wood the same length (about 29" ish long... have to measure still) to put in between the quickjack so the spacing is equal.
Just my .02

 

[Flatback72]

Yeah, for me, they save so much time. This is mostly because my car sits LOW. so it kinda becomes a pain to get a jack under the front quarter pumping it....... I just got tired of positioning jack stands, necessity.... no bit it sure is a NICEssity! That said, pulled your own measurements, I have a thing going for me that you may not. I'm running Maier subframe connectors. His connectors, like some others on the market (maybe global west? Etc...) weld on so the subframe attaches to the outside of the front subframe and runs along the car to the BOTTOM of the rear subframe. So I place my block on the front and rear subframe connectors.... because of how they mount, they kinda form a straight line, or straight enough to minimize the offset. I'm thinking about cutting a piece or two of wood the same length (about 29" ish long... have to measure still) to put in between the quickjack so the spacing is equal.
Just my .02

I found a set of Quick Jack lookalikes here in Australia in Melbourne (200 mile round trip to collect) called Quick Lift - Chinese made but sturdy and solid made with square sectioned 40mm RHS steel, chunky lifting cylinders, welds that look a little rough but seem solid, and good final finish. I bought the 3500kg (7000 lbs) model which may be a little overkill but I like the idea of having something beefier holding the car up. Advertised here as DTM brand but known elsewhere in the world under the name Luxmain.
DTM has been selling them here in Australia for about 6 years. I was talking to the owner of DTM; he has gone through proper due diligence here to get these Quick Lift models engineer assessed for function and load testing and from that data they have been approved for Australian industry use by "WorkSafe" which is the Australian government regulatory body that oversees workplace safety standards and legal requirements.
I had to buy a pair of extender plates though to reach the proper torque box lift points. The unit height in its resting state with rubber blocks installed is about 4". The extender plate and extra rubber pads add around 2" extra height to the unit in its resting state, which I thought was perfect to just fit under the 6" clearance at the front lifting point, but I measured under the the other side of the car today to find that other side is 0.6" lower (drivers side spring sag) so that the Quick Lift with the extender plate wont quite fit under it! No big deal though, that just means I need to spend an extra minute to jack under the engine cross-member to lift the front up a tad to fit the Lifts in place. Clearance height at the back of the car isn't a problem as the lifting point there is higher at 8" per side (will require packing up with an extra block).
The Quick Lift doesn't have air cylinders that need pumping up, so that is a bonus I assume. Also I didn't have to install any hydraulic fittings - everything had quick-connects already installed.
I haven't used the lifts yet, just operated them for a little while in the upside down position as instructed to bleed the air out.
Fingers crossed when I use them for the first time I won't have a tale of woe and regret to post here later on!