Tight clearance on sway bar

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Joined
May 19, 2021
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Location
Between Fort Mohave, AZ & So Cal (Upland)
My Car
73 Grande will be used to build 73 Vert.
Look at this pics. Does it look like my sway bar is too close to the “frame“? It looks like it’s too narrow from side to side. If it was a bit longer, the attaching points would be closer to vertical to the LCA. My concern is, it looks like it will rub or bind when the suspension goes through its normal movement. Since I bought this as a basket-case, is it possible I’ve got some Falcon or earlier sway bar on it?

CCAE2066-EE58-4659-A8AE-6B7F3E27587B.jpeg
 
It does look very close. Are there any signs of it hitting the frame? It may be the way the suspension articulates that there is no interference.
 
It doesn’t look right. The end links should be pretty much straight up and down. Looks like it’s possibly not wide enough. What bar is it?
From his description, it was a bitsa car, bitsa this, bitsa that. He may not know what bar it is, but it does look wrong. He has a Grande, so no rear sway bar. A new Addco bar would fix it.
 
Look at this pics. Does it look like my sway bar is too close to the “frame“? It looks like it’s too narrow from side to side. If it was a bit longer, the attaching points would be closer to vertical to the LCA. My concern is, it looks like it will rub or bind when the suspension goes through its normal movement. Since I bought this as a basket-case, is it possible I’ve got some Falcon or earlier sway bar on it?

View attachment 71655
In this photo is your suspension free hanging (car jacked-up) or sitting at ride height? Can we get a wider view photo also?
 
Look at this pics. Does it look like my sway bar is too close to the “frame“? It looks like it’s too narrow from side to side. If it was a bit longer, the attaching points would be closer to vertical to the LCA. My concern is, it looks like it will rub or bind when the suspension goes through its normal movement. Since I bought this as a basket-case, is it possible I’ve got some Falcon or earlier sway bar on it?

View attachment 71655
Something is not right. The link should be straight so maybe that's not the correct sway bar or something is bent somewhere.
Here is an old picture when I had the stock bar. Look at the link being straight between LCA and bar. This picture was taken with the suspension loaded but even if the car is raised it shouldn't look like your picture.
20210101_175244.jpg
 
Regarding the link not being plumb. It seems like when you apply a performance alignment on these cars and move the LCAs out to gain negative camber the links end up tilted. I wish someone would make a sway bar that was a 3/4 - 1” wider.
 
I don’t know the history of the car, but it’s the bar that was on it. The pics are the car on the ground. The suspension is all new/rebuilt, so no alignment yet. The tilted attachment points bother me the most. As it articulates, I’m worried that tilt will make the sway bar less effective. I could remove it to measure eyelet to eyelet, but only if someone has those measurements. Thanks for the questions, Steve.
 
Mention your concern to your alignment specialist and he will let you know if it's a problem or not. He will still be able to accomplish the alignment regardless of the bar being correct.

Looking at the antiroll bar, it looks like it may be original to the car, unless the car has been in a front-end accident. Worst case is you need to replace it. Finding a stock replacement shouldn't be too difficult.
 
I have an original front bar off my 71 Mach. I'll measure it and edit this post.

I just measured my original bar and as far as I can measure with a tape, it's 41 3/8" center eye to center eye. Hard to see exactly, but that's close.
 
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Thanks Sheriff. BTW, are any of the aftermarket bars “longer” than the stock? Also, and just asking, but what about using a bit of heat (bar off the car) to increase the width? I realize it would alter the track of the bar, but just wondering. I don’t need much to ensure it clears on both sides. Here are two photos, one of the wheel track and one of the drivers side. That side, the mount is even more tilted, as the sway bar is too short.

E21006E1-F98A-4F8B-BAD7-3966E51F2F28.jpegB9FC873D-B8EA-476A-A16F-FA158B590370.jpeg
 
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Thanks Sheriff. BTW, are any of the aftermarket bars “longer” than the stock? Also, and just asking, but what about using a bit of heat (bar off the car) to increase the width? I realize it would alter the track of the bar, but just wondering. I don’t need much to ensure it clears on both sides. Here are two photos, one of the wheel track and one of the drivers side. That side, the mount is even more tilted, as the sway bar is too short.

View attachment 71666View attachment 71665
The aftermarket bars are designed to be a form, fit, function replacement of the original bar. I doubt there would be any marked difference in width. Your bar may have been bent. Does it appear symmetrical and straight through the middle section? Using heat would impact the strength of the bar and is inadvisable.
 
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Thanks Sheriff. BTW, are any of the aftermarket bars “longer” than the stock? Also, and just asking, but what about using a bit of heat (bar off the car) to increase the width? I realize it would alter the track of the bar, but just wondering. I don’t need much to ensure it clears on both sides. Here are two photos, one of the wheel track and one of the drivers side. That side, the mount is even more tilted, as the sway bar is too short.

View attachment 71666View attachment 71665
Heat would be a no go. The sway bar is a spring. By heating it and not following up with heat treating / tempering you would likely destroy it.
 
Regarding the link not being plumb. It seems like when you apply a performance alignment on these cars and move the LCAs out to gain negative camber the links end up tilted. I wish someone would make a sway bar that was a 3/4 - 1” wider.
I have 1 degree of negative camber on mine and still looks straight. If I remember correctly, the LCA moves out about 0.1" per 1/2 degree.
 
What brand bar do you have? I have a grab-a-track and it is pretty narrow. My end links are splayed out.
The one in the picture is the stock. Now I have the one that came with the Mike Maier's MOD1 set. From what I understand it is from Hellwig, but not 100% sure. Narrow may be better because it keeps it away from the strut rod. Mine can make contact in some occasions and with lower camber. A little angle of the link bar shouldn't be that bad.
 
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