http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-71-72-engine-mounts-bracket-vs-73
Hopefully it helps others with 73s.
Totalled's rebuild thread
- Thread starter Totalled
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Hopefully it helps others with 73s.
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Dude you are kicking it! Keep up the great work!
Got the shock towers painted, cleaned some other things, prepped the new PS hoses. Got the new box installed before giving up at 3pm from the heat. Not as hot as some of you, but the shop was 90 degrees, and that was enough for me.
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Nice work Tottaled. On the Eastern side its well over a 100 today so I didn't do anything on my car. I did find the decal removing wheel so I'll be trying it out soon. When I get my car done we will need to meet up and take a pic of both cars together with both facing each other. They will look like twins
-jbojo
That would be cool! Definitely!Nice work Tottaled. On the Eastern side its well over a 100 today so I didn't do anything on my car. I did find the decal removing wheel so I'll be trying it out soon. When I get my car done we will need to meet up and take a pic of both cars together with both facing each other. They will look like twins
-jbojo
It was warmer yesterday. I had to pull both headers from mockup to re drill three bolt holes to allow the bolts to slip in past the tubes. Got the headers in finally for the last time, with all bolts and gaskets.
Shock towers are painted and sealed up.
Cleaned and painted the center link. I used the same "cast iron" paint I tried on the PS pump brackets. Also got the new repro idler arm from west coast classic cougars in.
This thermometer is in the shop on the wall in front of the mustang. I hung it up at 3pm.
Updates will slow down as I am back to work, and will be working weekends on this project.
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That would be cool! Definitely!
It was warmer yesterday. I had to pull both headers from mockup to re drill three bolt holes to allow the bolts to slip in past the tubes. Got the headers in finally for the last time, with all bolts and gaskets.
For the drivers side header did you have difficulty getting it in place? I had to remove the engine to remove mine. Just wondering if you had to side the motor over to the passenger side to get it on.
-jbojo
It was warmer yesterday. I had to pull both headers from mockup to re drill three bolt holes to allow the bolts to slip in past the tubes. Got the headers in finally for the last time, with all bolts and gaskets.
For the drivers side header did you have difficulty getting it in place? I had to remove the engine to remove mine. Just wondering if you had to side the motor over to the passenger side to get it on.
-jbojo
No, it slips right in between the engine and steering box. Lots of room if you pull the steering box. You will have to pop the drag link off at least the driver's side/pitman arm to make room, if you still have all your suspension in.
Killin it Totalled! Way to go on all the progress. 90 Degrees in the garage eh? I wish I could keep mine that cool. This weekend it was about 113 in the garage with both doors open.
Keep the updates coming!
Keep the updates coming!
Front suspension time!
I know it's been discussed here about the upper control arm holes, but Global West still has us do it. If it doesn't work out, I'll get stock geometry arms from them and weld up the holes. Got the driver's side done today, and holes drilled for the passenger side.
I know it's been discussed here about the upper control arm holes, but Global West still has us do it. If it doesn't work out, I'll get stock geometry arms from them and weld up the holes. Got the driver's side done today, and holes drilled for the passenger side.
Back on it this weekend. Got the passenger side in. Went to put the front swaybar in, and something is wrong. It either was bent in shipping, or it wasn't bent correctly when it was made. It's been almost 2 years since I bought it. Guess I'll contact the vendor to see if they can do anything, or if I'm gonna have to re-bend it myself...
Oh that sucks! I hope the vendor works with you.
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That was my exact thought when I saw the pic.
Beware Grab a Track from mustangs plus... they might be the cheapest for a reason.... They told me to take the car off of jack stands and try again, due to "unibody twist." I ordered an Addco from summit racing.
That's messed up!:-/ Let us know how the Addco fits.Beware Grab a Track from mustangs plus... they might be the cheapest for a reason.... They told me to take the car off of jack stands and try again, due to "unibody twist." I ordered an Addco from summit racing.
Yeah. It was part of a $900 order. I would have felt better with a "sorry, you're past our 90 day return/warranty period." Oh well, plenty of other mustang parts vendors that would be happy to make money off my turd... and have.
Okay, I will recant some of my bad mouthing of the grab a track sway bar... I put an NIB Addco up to the car today, and it had the same problem lining up to the driver's side mount. I looked the car over real well, and it's apparent it was wrecked at some point. I resigned myself to replacing the front frame rails and core support when I redo the bodywork on the car. For now, it made it work, and will enjoy beating on the car until then.
However, I compared the three front sway bars, and the Addco is a better piece then the grab a track, it has more precise bends. Grab a track top, Addco middle, OEM bottom:
However, I compared the three front sway bars, and the Addco is a better piece then the grab a track, it has more precise bends. Grab a track top, Addco middle, OEM bottom:
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The Addco are much better pieces..I installed the addco bars back in the early 80's on the q code..The have been around a long time...Unless the rails are rotted there's no need to replace..The best bet to is put the car on a frame machine with a UNIVERSAL MEASURING SYSTEM grab the unibody spec sheet..spec it out...A few pulls may be all it takes to repair it..vs a major job to replace...Plus that should be done anyway PRIOR TO CUTTING OUT REPLACING THE FRAME RAIL..Damaged structural components unibody should always be pulled brought into spec before replacing cutting out parts..You may have do that anyway to get the new front end components into alignment spec...Your going to find out when you go for a alignment..The best alignments are where both sides spec exactly the same..caster camber..Your not going to want a stock alignment setup with the new components to take full advantage of them...I believe the global west setup uses revised geometry..If they didn't supply the settings you should call & ask them the recommend setup.
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Yeah, I have the spec sheets from global west. And yeah, I'm aware (dreading) there might be problems aligning it. If the rail doesn't get replaced, there will at least be cleanup of some interesting looking welds at the core support, and replacement of the driver's side sway bar bracket.
Lunch time break. Just need to do the sway bar end links.
Time for measuring... The passenger side lower a-arm is way back, and I can't get the end link for the sway bar hooked up.... The strut rod is at it's shortest....
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