Totalled's rebuild thread

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Got a spot coming up on the frame rack. Working to make it a roller.

Got the rear end housing stripped and today, painted.

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Yes. Strip and road course.

The moser axles I ordered are an inch too short. Of course, I found this out after pressing in wheel studs and bearings onto them. The Summit rep is going to contact Moser to see what they have to say... I hope I don't end up with a $400 paper weight set.

It's almost a roller.

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Got it on the ground for the first time in months... Only to start tearing it apart to go to the body shop. Oh well.

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BTW, you guys weren't exaggerating about how heavy the '73 front bumper is... Good God. This is where I stopped for the day:

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Summit Racing is going to warranty my too short axle shafts. They also comped me a set of bearings since they can't be re-used. :)
That's awesome of them! Glad to hear they're working with you on this. Can't wait to see what she looks like once she's back from the body shop, keep up the good work!

 
Oh yeah, VIN matches in all four spots on my car, so at least it's all original, even if it was munched at one time.

Got the incorrect axles picked up by ups today. I was able to salvage the wheel studs and bearing plates last night.

 
Ouch ! never fails to amaze me the hack work thats out there..I'd approach it as follows if it was in my shop doing the repair..Up on the frame machine with the universal measuring system..I'd remove the rad support..both fender aprons..frt crossmember..after a rough pull..Then a pull or multiple pulls into spec..I'd replace the frt section of the right rail..They do make the inner & outer..I think the left side can be repaired..cleanup repair the frt crossmember..The key to this repair is having a measuring system .everything during repair needs to be measured brought into spec as per the unibody measurement chart. Choose your shop wisely

 
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I'm taking it to a local shop that has built 40+ early mustangs. They have been recommended to me by another shop who said they wouldn't trust anyone else to do it.

I noticed some funkyness at the rear too. The passenger side still sits an inch higher than the drivers, even with the new springs. I noticed a couple of suspect wrinkles in the floor pan... guess we'll see how bad it is once it's on the rack and measured.

 
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Pat, That sucks and is painful to look at. I learned something from your pics though, that the holes in the frame rails should be uniform and will deform if there was any damage in the past. I have a car that I need to check.

Good luck going forward with the repair.

 
Finally have all the sheet metal to repair it. Body shop thinks about a week, week and a half till they can fit it in. Thanks to Motor City Mustang, Cleveland Coupe, and Don at OMS.

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Finally have all the sheet metal to repair it. Body shop thinks about a week, week and a half till they can fit it in. Thanks to Motor City Mustang, Cleveland Coupe, and Don at OMS.

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Coming right along! Your car is gonna be wicked when you're done! I still need to take some pictures of the wire harness routing for you. I'll get that done tomorrow before I stuff the engine in!

-Travis

 
As promised:

Voltage regulator

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Harness going under battery tray

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Right headlight

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Left headlight

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Crossmember (excuse the nylon ties (temporary)

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Left front inner fender (horns and washer reservoir)

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Left shock tower

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Left rear inner fender and pass through firewall

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Wiper motor, engine and transmission feed

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Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any other pictures.

-Travis

 
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