Valve covers and flame thrower

[Stanglover]

Hemikiller,

Totally agree. our friend needs to do the basics first.  The choice of distributor or electronic module is secondary.

 

[Stanglover]

Ok  I Will put a new Distributor with Pert ll igniter with Pert relay switch (Buy passing the Pink wire)  40,000 v F.Thrower  .           .TWO Part QUestion is sending 12v to coil will the wire to the coil burn up and were and what does the relay switch play

 I can't be 100% sure of how the relay is wired in as I didn't use one, but I am sure the new 12V wire will go directly to the coil. The old original wire is taken out of the loop. I think there may be a plug you can disconnect under the hood if you follow the old coil wire back to the firewall. Electrical stuff is not my strong point, so don't quote me!

As Hemikiller suggests, do the basic first. Get it running better, then start tuning. If it is just points that are clapped out, try new points first. The new dizzy and module are for later. I didn't mean to mislead you to thinking your problem was the distributor.

Geoff.

 

[batwrangler]

thanks I still got some time on this ..its just that in the description on the pertronix sheet it says must have 12v to the coil last time I did this on this car the wire burnt up so I switched back and it was fine but still ran rough ,,maybe the wire was to thin well I get everything and go from their like you say get it running again ,,

 

[Stanglover]

thanks  I still got some time on this ..its just that in the description on the pertronix sheet it says must have 12v to the coil last time I did this on this car the wire burnt up so I switched back and it was fine but still ran rough ,,maybe the wire was to thin well I get everything and go from their like you say get it running again  ,,

 Mine said it needed a #10 gauge wire which is pretty thick.

 

[Hemikiller]

thanks  I still got some time on this ..its just that in the description on the pertronix sheet it says must have 12v to the coil last time I did this on this car the wire burnt up so I switched back and it was fine but still ran rough ,,maybe the wire was to thin well I get everything and go from their like you say get it running again  ,,

 Mine said it needed a #10 gauge wire which is pretty thick.

10ga wire for ignition feed? Thinking that's a mis-print in their instructions. 

The Pertronix relay is a total ripoff. I've seen them for $35, when you could buy a simple automotive relay for a couple bucks and wire it yourself.

 

[Stanglover]

thanks  I still got some time on this ..its just that in the description on the pertronix sheet it says must have 12v to the coil last time I did this on this car the wire burnt up so I switched back and it was fine but still ran rough ,,maybe the wire was to thin well I get everything and go from their like you say get it running again  ,,

 Mine said it needed a #10 gauge wire which is pretty thick.

10ga wire for ignition feed? Thinking that's a mis-print in their instructions. 

The Pertronix relay is a total ripoff. I've seen them for $35, when you could buy a simple automotive relay for a couple bucks and wire it yourself.

Hemikiller, I stand corrected. I just looked through my papers and found an older instruction sheet for the Pertronix Ignitor II. It states to use a #12 gauge wire, not a #10. I guess my ailing memory got me again. The instructions in a newer (spare) ignitor II I have just says it may be run on a resisted wire, but recommends removal and bypass it, doesn't say how to or with what.

As for the relay, I have the instruction to wire that in. Perhaps that's the real benefit in buying the kit, you get instructions!!

 

[Don C]

Unless you have a '72 or '73 with a throttle position solenoid there's no good place to access key-on 12 volts under the hood. So, a relay with a 6-volt coil is needed to be able to operate on the reduced voltage from the resistor wire to the coil, assuming the coil remains on the resistor circuit. Good quality 6-volt relays aren't plentiful, and the ones I've found are in the $25 to$30 range.

If you do not leave the ignition coil on the resistor wire circuit a regular 12-volt coil relay should work fine, as it doesn't load the resistor wire enough to reduce the voltage very much, just a half volt, or so.

The resistor wire is under the dash, not after the firewall connector, so the firewall connector is not a source for 12 volts.

 

[batwrangler]

Man im become a pro at this after a lot of research I found that my stock (dry rotted) wire was to small cause it was only designed for 9v that's why it burned up its just like Hemikiller says 12g wire straight from under dash (bypassing B.Resister Pink wire) all the way to coil (leaving old Pink wire in place just in case you want to go back to points Flame thrower ll coil and ingniter will not work good unless it has 12v to it That's wright Don I did think the pink wire was under the dash and not after the F.Wall .what I under stand it starts a few inches after the connector I havn't looked at mine yet ...Does all this sound wright??

 

[Stanglover]

I'm out of this one now. Electronics aren't my thing.

Good luck and I look forward to reading a success story.

Geoff.

 

[batwrangler]

I'm out of this one now. Electronics aren't my thing.

Good luck and I look forward to reading a success story.

Geoff.........Thanks for the help your and others have been a big help in get me to research this and finding this info

 

[Stanglover]

I'm out of this one now. Electronics aren't my thing.

Good luck and I look forward to reading a success story.

Geoff.........Thanks for the help your and others have been a big help in get me to research this and finding this info

 Glad I was able to help in some way.

Different year cars present different problems and solutions I guess.

Good luck,

Geoff.

 

[batwrangler]

 I got heat just  too expensive to run

Just want to slow this train down for a second considering the quoted statement. 

Before you go drop @ $200 on ignition parts, do a thorough diagnosis of the engine to verify that it actually is the ignition that's causing your problem. "Rough running" can be caused by a wide variety of issues, from bad gas, junk in the carb to vacuum leaks, broken valve springs, burned valves, worn out engine or simply misadjusted or dirty points. 

A simple $15 vacuum gauge can verify the condition of the engine and aid in diagnosing your issues as well as help with tuning and adjustments. 

Take a few minutes to clean and adjust the points, ensure the choke is operating properly and that you don't have any vacuum leaks. If the gas in the tank smells bad, feed the fuel pump directly from a small can of fresh fuel. Personally, I'd disconnect all the vacuum lines from the trees on the intake, cap them and see how it runs - just make sure you label where they go. Spray around the intake and carb base gaskets with carburetor cleaner to see if the RPMs change - this would indicate a vacuum leak through a gasket.

If you don't have a factory repair manual set, at least invest in the Haynes 64-73 Mustang manual. I bought one at the same time as my first Mustang in 1988 and it got me through to making the car a reliable daily driver. 30 years and dozens of cars later, I still refer to it from time to time.

https://www.amazon.com/Haynes-Publications-36048-Repair-Manual/dp/0856963577

Just to let you know theirs a lot of good stuff here for me to use thanks again ...