right Geoff,, one thing scars me should I by pass the resister changing the volts from 6 to 12 ,,,once I ran a hot wire from batt to coil and the wire went on fire,,should I bypass it or leave it stock???
Pertronix make a relay just for that reason and purpose. I don't have the part number, nor did I use one when I first put a P III on mine (now have the P II). I did it the hard way and cut the pink wire at the plug connector under the dash, then soldered in a #10 (red) wire directly to the coil. Apparently I did not need to do that either. I'm NOT totally sure on this, so check, but the pink wire can be bypassed at the connection under the hood. I stress, I'm not sure on that, so maybe Midlife can comment. You do NEED a full 12V for the P II to work, so the relay is your best bet. I wish I'd know about the relay when I did mine. Not only would it have save a nasty job working under the dash, but I would have kept that resistor wire should I ever need it again.
Also forgot to mention on timing, you need it to be all in by 3000rpm. i.e. fully advanced. A good timing light that is digital, adjustable and has a tach on it is a great tool to have. There's a lot to learn to get the timing, fuel mixture etc. etc., but once you start to understand it, it gets to be fun. I'm not sure what your end goal is, but I'd say, just get it running smoothly first. You may have other stuff going on that also needs to be addressed, like a clapped out carb, vacuum lines going to wrong places or just leaking. It may come down to a complete top end refresh. And the snow-ball effect gets bigger!!!
Geoff.
EDIT: The Pertronix 2001 Ignition power relay is available from CJP for $30.46. Others will have it as well I'm sure. Also, there are YouTube videos on installing modules. search for the one that matches yours, but as you are going with a new Pertronix dizzy, it should be easy.