What did you do to your car today?

[71MUSTY]

Just got everything in for the next project. New Repro Center dash cluster. New Dash Pad. New Dakota digital guages including center. Used OEM map light. Unfortunately I won't have time for the install for a few weeks.

 

[sm3570]

I dreamed about it...

 

[Mister 4x4]

Went by the machine shop today. They mic'd the block and initially went with .040" bores. But unfortunately, there were still some bad spots, so they went to .060. It's fine with me, since I'm not going to be racing this car or anything majorly stressful. The heads wound up needing new valve guides, and some new valves... along with the hardened seats I asked for, but otherwise, they're fine. The crank was in the best shape - only needs .010"/.010".

Decided to go with the stock heads initially, as I can always upgrade to the Edelbrocks down the road. Also going with hydraulic/roller everything and checked out CompCams for a 218/218 mid-range cam (isn't that what Doc wound up with?). Probably going to go with the CompCams recommended everything (valve springs, pushrods, roller rockers, et al.).

Mark Winger (my machinist) said he'll get me the 10:1 forged flat-tops and whatever else I need through his shop connections - which he said should be a bit better than going through Summit or JEG'S. We'll see though.

Can't wait to get it back and start putting it together.

 

[73vertproject]

Went by the machine shop today. They mic'd the block and initially went with .040" bores. But unfortunately, there were still some bad spots, so they went to .060. It's fine with me, since I'm not going to be racing this car or anything majorly stressful. The heads wound up needing new valve guides, and some new valves... along with the hardened seats I asked for, but otherwise, they're fine. The crank was in the best shape - only needs .010"/.010".

Decided to go with the stock heads initially, as I can always upgrade to the Edelbrocks down the road. Also going with hydraulic/roller everything and checked out CompCams for a 218/218 mid-range cam (isn't that what Doc wound up with?). Probably going to go with the CompCams recommended everything (valve springs, pushrods, roller rockers, et al.).

Mark Winger (my machinist) said he'll get me the 10:1 forged flat-tops and whatever else I need through his shop connections - which he said should be a bit better than going through Summit or JEG'S. We'll see though.

Can't wait to get it back and start putting it together.

Hey, Eric. My cam is a 218/224 - just a bit more radical than yours. I forget - your rebuilding a 351c, right? I've never heard of boring .060 over - that's a whole lot of metal removal for our thin-walled blocks. But you''re a savvy guy, and like you said, you're not gonna be racing her for a living. Can't wait to see (hint) your progress when she gets home.

Doc

 

[71coupe]

got my portabe baking soda blaster yesterday from Harbour Freight. Yes...harbour freight. I don't plan on blasting the entire car with this thing, just plan on blasting small parts and areas of the car. Well, the instructions on how to set the thing up were horrible! I basically put it together based on the picture they provided. I plan on testing it out today. Will let you know how it goes.

On another website I frequent this is by far the most popular thread there. I thought I would try it here.

Now guys we're not talking the daily driver or momma's car. Let's keep this specifically devoted to posts on our 71-73 Mustangs. Like usual no flaming, constructive opinions and commments please.

On another website I frequent this is by far the most popular thread there. I thought I would try it here.

Now guys we're not talking the daily driver or momma's car. Let's keep this specifically devoted to posts on our 71-73 Mustangs. Like usual no flaming, constructive opinions and commments please.

I'll get it started... Today NOTHING, Yesterday I drove it to work and cleaned up the charcoal cannister for repaint and reinstall. I took it off earlier this summer and have terrible fuel smells coming from the car. OOPS

 

[Mister 4x4]

Went by the machine shop today. They mic'd the block and initially went with .040" bores. But unfortunately, there were still some bad spots, so they went to .060. It's fine with me, since I'm not going to be racing this car or anything majorly stressful. The heads wound up needing new valve guides, and some new valves... along with the hardened seats I asked for, but otherwise, they're fine. The crank was in the best shape - only needs .010"/.010".

Decided to go with the stock heads initially, as I can always upgrade to the Edelbrocks down the road. Also going with hydraulic/roller everything and checked out CompCams for a 218/218 mid-range cam (isn't that what Doc wound up with?). Probably going to go with the CompCams recommended everything (valve springs, pushrods, roller rockers, et al.).

Mark Winger (my machinist) said he'll get me the 10:1 forged flat-tops and whatever else I need through his shop connections - which he said should be a bit better than going through Summit or JEG'S. We'll see though.

Can't wait to get it back and start putting it together.

Hey, Eric. My cam is a 218/224 - just a bit more radical than yours. I forget - your rebuilding a 351c, right? I've never heard of boring .060 over - that's a whole lot of metal removal for our thin-walled blocks. But you''re a savvy guy, and like you said, you're not gonna be racing her for a living. Can't wait to see (hint) your progress when she gets home.

Doc

I was also concerned with the .060" myself, but the machinist builds and races nothing but old Fords - he's put together some really awesome cars. My pal Jim (who runs the Auto Hobby Shop) also didn't seem too bothered about it either... and I've learned that if Jim's not too worried about it, it must me OK.

I did read something on a 351C forum about blocking off the lower water channels to offer some rigidity to the front cylinder walls. Not so sure about blocking anything off, to be honest. But it seemed logical what they said about the top 25% of the cylinders doing 90% of the cooling, considering that's where the majority of the detonation occurs. I think I'll do a ton more reading, and it sounds interesting... but I doubt I'll attempt anything like that.

I'm thinking a monster 3- or 4-core radiator, the right fan set-up, and a 180-degree thermostat should keep things under control.

 

[Tnfastbk]

We have a 60 over four bolt main block but decided not to use it since everyone knows how I like to drive.

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

I did this the other day. Does it still count? Anyhow, here's what I did cause someone decided to park next to me even though the car was nowhere near anyother car and by itself. They reversed and hit the quarter and bent the new chrome bumper. Instead of trying to bend it back, I decided to use the original bumper. It was heavily pitted but I took the chrome off down to the brass and painted it the same color of the car. Didn't look right with the chrome front bumper so I repaired the urethane rubber bumper and I'm happy the way it turned out. Check it out!

And the rebuild continues :-/

 

[Tnfastbk]

WOW ::goodjob::

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

I did this the other day. Does it still count? Anyhow, here's what I did cause someone decided to park next to me even though the car was nowhere near anyother car and by its self. They reversed and hit the quarter and bent the new chrome bumper. Instead of trying to bend it back, I decided to use the original bumper. It was heavily pitted but I took the chrome off down to the brass and painted it the same color of the car. Didn't look right with the chrome front bumper so I repaired the urethane rubber bumper and I'm happy the way it turned out. Check it out!

And the rebuild continues :-/

WOW ::goodjob::

Thanks bro!

 

[droptop73]

Nice work.

 

[mach71351c]

Finished floor pans on top side anyway. Will under side later. Cut out rust on battery apron. Did more sanding in engine bay.

 

[71coupe]

so I fired up the portable baking soda blaster yesterday. I have to say I was pleasantly surprised at the results. Like I said in previous post, I don't plan on blasting the entire car, but for small pieces were sanding would just be a bitch, this little thing does a decent job. see pics.

 

[downwardspiral]

I took my car to school today, parked it and drove it home at night without issues. It needs another gear or two lol, it's a nightmare on the highway compared to the crossfire.. I was at 3k at 60ish (speedo read 70, but who knows) people were flying past me. The car is a blast though, I cant wait for the go-fast stuff

 

[72HCODE]

sweet you and me need to cruise

sounds like you have a deeper rear like a 3.5:1 I'm running a 3 switched from 2.75

at 2500, i'm around 65mph

 

[downwardspiral]

sweet you and me need to cruise

sounds like you have a deeper rear like a 3.5:1 I'm running a 3 switched from 2.75

at 2500, i'm around 65mph

I should be able to drive it around this summer reliably. I'll let you know if I'm going to any shows, we can crew up lol. I forgot to mention I have 3.90's, I'll live with them for now and hopefully pick up a 5 or 6 speed soon. It feels like a 6 speed with gears 5 and 6 locked out lol.

 

[Sprintsportsroof]

I "drove" my Mustang for the very first time! I changed the oil and air filter first. I put 40 miles on her and just absolutely loved it. Wow the acceleration from 55 mph to 75 mph is great. The only issue is the whine in the radio from the engine. Anyone know what part and where to put the noise reducer to take that whine out of the engine? Thanks !

 

[OLE PONY]

Glad your test drive went well. The noise suppression condenser should be below the regulator as in the picture below:

 

[73vertproject]

I "drove" my Mustang for the very first time! I changed the oil and air filter first. I put 40 miles on her and just absolutely loved it. Wow the acceleration from 55 mph to 75 mph is great. The only issue is the whine in the radio from the engine. Anyone know what part and where to put the noise reducer to take that whine out of the engine? Thanks !

First, double check your ground - make sure you've got a good, solid ground. If that doesn't fix it, come back and post in the electronics forum for some other ideas.

Doc

 

[don29163]

there should be a clip on the cowl that rubs on the hood also, that is to help prevent radio noise

http://mustang.carnutguys.com/_Media/s6300778.jpeg