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Another long day in the garage. cleaning, blasting, painting...there are a lot of parts. It would be great to just be able to replace everything ! The engine compartment is just about ready to set the engine in. Battery tray is in. Brakes are all done and bled. The good car was missing a lot of stuff and the rusty parts car has been a real blessing and worth what I paid for it.

Why someone ordered a Q code 4 speed without gauges and tach is beyond me, but I have decided to put it back as it came from the factory, with the exception of adding A/C. Probably going with Vintage Air sure fit..looking for prices now.

 
Got the car home from storage this afternoon.....Noticed that one of the freakin LED bulbs went out again so I'll have to screw around with the cluster again....

Question....has anyone found decent mechanical gauges that will fit the original pods?

Ken

 
Put the repaired radiator back into the car without breaking anything and without hurting anyone. :D

Drove the car to work and it seems like it's working.

 
Removed oil pump, timing chain and gears, and all lifters except one.

STuck lifter.JPG

Do I need to worry about this one or just tap it out after I remove the cam and crank?

Also, can anyone easily identify this thing that was screwed into the rear of the block?

Diaphragm part on back of block.JPG

And this thing that was screwed into the front of the block?

Electrical part on front of block.JPG

Should I replace either of them when rebuilding the engine?

 
Removed oil pump, timing chain and gears, and all lifters except one.

Do I need to worry about this one or just tap it out after I remove the cam and crank?

Also, can anyone easily identify this thing that was screwed into the rear of the block?

And this thing that was screwed into the front of the block?

Should I replace either of them when rebuilding the engine?
looks like the oil pressure sending unit on rear and temp sensor on front

 
Removed oil pump, timing chain and gears, and all lifters except one.

Do I need to worry about this one or just tap it out after I remove the cam and crank?

Also, can anyone easily identify this thing that was screwed into the rear of the block?

And this thing that was screwed into the front of the block?

Should I replace either of them when rebuilding the engine?
looks like the oil pressure sending unit on rear and temp sensor on front
Thats what I thought...since I replaced both last summer.

Ken

 
spent 30 seconds taking the fiberglass hood off and flipping it over......spent an hour digging the five pieces of fiberglass out of my right hand :(

 
Here you go jeff, the oil line mod. Do you approve?
Roy, what's that for?

Alan L
It gets oil to the back of the crank a little quicker, Jeff can explain it a little better. They run them on both the race cars.
This line helps to correct an oiling problem with the Cleveland. The oil flow path goes from the oil pump into the lifter and cam oil galleys then to the crank. This line pulls oil from near the pump and routes it to the rear galley that feeds the crank providing extra oiling to the bottom end. It's generally not necessary but if you intend to spin the engine hard it's cheap insurance. We do this to both the Stock eliminator engine and the SS/GT engine in the race cars. The side benefit is to keep your friends scratching their heads. :D

 
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My wife ordered the Super Suspension Kit from Laurel Mountain Mustangs, with the 1" coil spring drop and 5-leaf spring pack upgrades. Also got a pair of new strut rods as well - so the Rustang will have all new suspension under there once I get the 'new' front clip swapped out.

On Scott's advice, I ordered a new LH floor frame rail from OMS. Also grabbed a new RH Front Apron (where the battery tray goes) from OMS as well.

Just gotta get the 'new' front clip finished up. Hopefully, I'll have the last bits of firewall scraps off it this weekend, then weld on the new frame rail extension after it shows up. My boss offered up his back yard in the boonies if I want to get the stuff to media blast the new clip - sounds like a plan to me.

 
Last weekend I changed the upper ball joints, steering coupler, pitman arm and a seal in the steering box that was leaking, that sttering box gets heavy trying to maneuver it thru the header pipes.

Car runs and handles much better now, the upper ball joints and rag joints were loose and mushy respectively.

 
My wife ordered the Super Suspension Kit from Laurel Mountain Mustangs, with the 1" coil spring drop and 5-leaf spring pack upgrades. Also got a pair of new strut rods as well - so the Rustang will have all new suspension under there once I get the 'new' front clip swapped out.

On Scott's advice, I ordered a new LH floor frame rail from OMS. Also grabbed a new RH Front Apron (where the battery tray goes) from OMS as well.

Just gotta get the 'new' front clip finished up. Hopefully, I'll have the last bits of firewall scraps off it this weekend, then weld on the new frame rail extension after it shows up. My boss offered up his back yard in the boonies if I want to get the stuff to media blast the new clip - sounds like a plan to me.
COOL

 
I bought a used deck lid, rear spoiler, factory a/c control & temp selector pod unit, and other misc parts for my car. I also drooled over Ponypastor's pristine 72 Q code mach1.

 
Today all the brake lines were finished, installed the front fender splash shields (What a PAIN), new (USED)tranny cross member from OMS cleaned, blasted and installed. Now waiting on american powertrain so we can install the clutch so we can put the master cylinder on to get fluid to the brakes.

 
Today all the brake lines were finished, installed the front fender splash shields (What a PAIN), new (USED)tranny cross member from OMS cleaned, blasted and installed. Now waiting on american powertrain so we can install the clutch so we can put the master cylinder on to get fluid to the brakes.
:worthlesswithoutpics:

 
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