Windage tray

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Joined
Aug 14, 2014
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Location
Madison, WI
My Car
1971 Mach 1 w/408C stroker
I am in the process of replacing my oil pan. That said I am seriously considering one of those windage trays that attaches to the main bolts. I like this design because it runs close to the crank which makes them more efficient. I have seen three models: MPG, Moroso and Canton. I like the MPG design because it wraps only half of the circumference, which should do a better job in "cutting" the oil cloud around the crank. The other two wrap all the way around the bottom of the crank. Unfortunately, I called MPG and they said they are not available at this time. From the other two I like the Moroso more because it being a solid plate with louvres instead of a mesh. The Milodon for rear sump looks too short - maybe the front sump option can be trimmed to fit. My thought is I could get the Moroso and cut it to have more open space and make it look like the MPG. Any thoughts? Any used ones out there? Do I need to shim it to clear my 408 crank?
 
To install one of these windage trays I need to replace four mains bolts. I assume that if I do one at a time it can be done with the engine installed and not needing to remove the actual mains.
 
To install one of these windage trays I need to replace four mains bolts. I assume that if I do one at a time it can be done with the engine installed and not needing to remove the actual mains.
Correct! You can even change all the bearings if, you are very careful, and triple check everything as you go. Chuck
 
Correct! You can even change all the bearings if, you are very careful, and triple check everything as you go. Chuck
I was thinking to do one bolt at a time without removing the bearings, but I guess if I could check the lower bearings if I wanted to open a can of worms. Will this be safe to do? I forgot from when I put my engine together, but is there an order on how to tighten the bearings? Although it was sited during the original assembly, do I need to do anything special with the thrust bearing to seat it again?
 
I was told by an engine builder/friend who runs a reputable machine shop, that if you replace the Ford main bearing bolts with studs, you have to align bore the block? Can any of you experienced guys confirm this?
 
I was told by an engine builder/friend who runs a reputable machine shop, that if you replace the Ford main bearing bolts with studs, you have to align bore the block? Can any of you experienced guys confirm this?
Most high performance machine shops will VERY highly recommend the block saddles and caps be corrected even after replacing original main cap bolts with new cap bolts. If replacing original cap bolts with new main studs it will be virtually mandatory to align the mains. Although I'm sure plenty of people have done the main fastner swap without correcting or verifying the bore with varying outcomes!
 
Most high performance machine shops will VERY highly recommend the block saddles and caps be corrected even after replacing original main cap bolts with new cap bolts. If replacing original cap bolts with new main studs it will be virtually mandatory to align the mains. Although I'm sure plenty of people have done the main fastner swap without correcting or verifying the bore with varying outcomes!
Intrigued. I think the instructions for installing the trays specify to replace one bolt at a time. That said, if replacing one bolt at a time without removing the main cap will that be an issue? I don't really need to remove the cap if I don't have to.
 
Intrigued. I think the instructions for installing the trays specify to replace one bolt at a time. That said, if replacing one bolt at a time without removing the main cap will that be an issue? I don't really need to remove the cap if I don't have to.
Hi Tony, No one can say for sure if a particular block's main clearances will change with a fastener swap but many do despite using the exact same tourqe. Distortions of .001" in the main bore are not uncommon after fastener swaps. ARP and most other HiPo fastener manufacturers caution installers to at least check/verify main bore clearances and alignment but preferably aline bore.
You may want to check ARP's web page concerning main cap fastner footnotes:
Take care,
Chris
 
Hi Tony, No one can say for sure if a particular block's main clearances will change with a fastener swap but many do despite using the exact same tourqe. Distortions of .001" in the main bore are not uncommon after fastener swaps. ARP and most other HiPo fastener manufacturers caution installers to at least check/verify main bore clearances and alignment but preferably aline bore.
You may want to check ARP's web page concerning main cap fastner footnotes:
Take care,
Chris
I see. Mine are ARP bolts. It makes sense that some slight change could occur since in theory each bolt will deform differently to the torque applied. Some deformation differences will also occur between bolt and stud.

1706466280389.png
 
Was anything done to increase clearance? Wondering if the stroker crank causes an issue. I'm also interested in a tray for my 408c build. What's that inside the red circle?
I don’t recall needing to clearance anything but can’t say for certain. Not sure what that mark was.
 

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