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once he repops the pedals, you can bet alot of members here will be going with his set up.

however, i'll be willing to send him my old automatic pedal thats power disc so he can make the brake pedal for both power and disc or just put both attachment's on the pedal.
OK, I am leaving for K'ville now, but I couldn't help but post. If we are going to re-pop the pedals your auto pedal would be great to have for reference. 2199 Summerfield Rd, Cookeville, TN 38501.

Careful what you offer, someone might just take you up on it. ;)
As you have learned :p

 
once he repops the pedals, you can bet alot of members here will be going with his set up.

however, i'll be willing to send him my old automatic pedal thats power disc so he can make the brake pedal for both power and disc or just put both attachment's on the pedal.
OK, I am leaving for K'ville now, but I couldn't help but post. If we are going to re-pop the pedals your auto pedal would be great to have for reference. 2199 Summerfield Rd, Cookeville, TN 38501.

Careful what you offer, someone might just take you up on it. ;)
If xoliex's pedal isn't available or he's actively using his car, I am willing to send my factory pwr disc pedal (from an automatic car) to be used as the template since my car isn't operational right now...still waiting on that Cookeville firm to get the details completed on their hydraulic setup so I can buy it for my 71 and install the Tremec 3550. :D

.

 
once he repops the pedals, you can bet alot of members here will be going with his set up.

however, i'll be willing to send him my old automatic pedal thats power disc so he can make the brake pedal for both power and disc or just put both attachment's on the pedal.
OK, I am leaving for K'ville now, but I couldn't help but post. If we are going to re-pop the pedals your auto pedal would be great to have for reference. 2199 Summerfield Rd, Cookeville, TN 38501.

Careful what you offer, someone might just take you up on it. ;)
If xoliex's pedal isn't available or he's actively using his car, I am willing to send my factory pwr disc pedal (from an automatic car) to be used as the template since my car isn't operational right now...still waiting on that Cookeville firm to get the details completed on their hydraulic setup so I can buy it for my 71 and install the Tremec 3550. :D

.
my automatic pedal sits in its bracket assy and sits in my shed in the backyard. whats in my car now is the clutch pedal assy i found on ebay. it just sits and is my OEM, of course i'm going to wait it back. but maybe we can just send him pictures of the measurement of the attachment point. and of course on a powerbrake set up, the attachment point is lower than a manual brake.

let me know!

 
OK, folks, the pictures aren't all that flattering. Too many years of getting punched in the face I'm afraid.

On a serious note, we had a few glitches in the design. Turns out there is only 1.75" between the frame rail and the steering joint, and that is a very tiny space to operate in. Fear not, however, I just spent the 1-1/2 hour drive back to design the fixes. Just have to put them in motion.

I don't know if you gentlemen realize this, but we have hydraulic solutions for every single classic Ford, Mopar and GM ride except yours. That is no accident, your pedal box is a miracle of over design and the space on your firewall is extraordinarily crowded.

But that's why we are the experts and I will have the fix ready next week. Will probably spend the weekend in the fab shop cranking out parts for it. I will, as promised, keep you updated.

Keep the faith. Gray@AP

P.S. I also delivered our killer Mean Street full circle Kevlar clutch on the road trip. Can't wait to get feedback on that too!



OK, I am leaving for K'ville now, but I couldn't help but post. If we are going to re-pop the pedals your auto pedal would be great to have for reference. 2199 Summerfield Rd, Cookeville, TN 38501.

Careful what you offer, someone might just take you up on it. ;)
If xoliex's pedal isn't available or he's actively using his car, I am willing to send my factory pwr disc pedal (from an automatic car) to be used as the template since my car isn't operational right now...still waiting on that Cookeville firm to get the details completed on their hydraulic setup so I can buy it for my 71 and install the Tremec 3550. :D

.
my automatic pedal sits in its bracket assy and sits in my shed in the backyard. whats in my car now is the clutch pedal assy i found on ebay. it just sits and is my OEM, of course i'm going to wait it back. but maybe we can just send him pictures of the measurement of the attachment point. and of course on a powerbrake set up, the attachment point is lower than a manual brake.

let me know!
If you guys will work it out among yourselves I will use whichever one is easiest for you to get to and ship. Don't worry about knocking off the cobwebs, just throw it in a box.

 
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i just spent the last 30 minutes on youtube trying to find a super old video i found almost 10 years ago where a guy made a hydro system on a 65-66 set up and he mounted the master cylinder inside the car "vertically".

of course this is on a test stand on a bench but is showing a demonstration on how it would work. i can't find this thing to save my life now. if there was a way to do it this way, this would eliminated if we had a power booster or not.

its going to drive me nuts now if i can't find this video now.

 
i just spent the last 30 minutes on youtube trying to find a super old video i found almost 10 years ago where a guy made a hydro system on a 65-66 set up and he mounted the master cylinder inside the car "vertically".

of course this is on a test stand on a bench but is showing a demonstration on how it would work. i can't find this thing to save my life now. if there was a way to do it this way, this would eliminated if we had a power booster or not.

its going to drive me nuts now if i can't find this video now.
Our systems for the 65-66 cars are quite easy to install. I was looking at an inside the car option but there is so little room up where the rod and return spring sit that the master cylinder has no room to operate. We are working on a pull-style master cylinder, but it is a ways off.

I would like to see the video if you find it.

 
i just spent the last 30 minutes on youtube trying to find a super old video i found almost 10 years ago where a guy made a hydro system on a 65-66 set up and he mounted the master cylinder inside the car "vertically".

of course this is on a test stand on a bench but is showing a demonstration on how it would work. i can't find this thing to save my life now. if there was a way to do it this way, this would eliminated if we had a power booster or not.

its going to drive me nuts now if i can't find this video now.
Our systems for the 65-66 cars are quite easy to install. I was looking at an inside the car option but there is so little room up where the rod and return spring sit that the master cylinder has no room to operate. We are working on a pull-style master cylinder, but it is a ways off.

I would like to see the video if you find it.
is this set up giving you some kind of headache to come up with? so a inside the car option isn't a go huh?


http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2005/03/T56Swap/index.php

here is a old friend of mine from another forum, i've bought alot of my 460 parts from him when he converted to a 580+ stroker kit, march pulley, and etc set up.

 
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The headache is coming from the odd shape of the clutch arm, which causes the master cylinder rod to follow an arc, which will cause the rod to bend. We are fixing that with a pair of tandem spherical rod ends.

The other issue is that the area where the master generally resides on the firewall (in every other car on God's green Earth) sits in a 1.75" wide slot between the steering joint and the frame rail. This is a very narrow opening for a master cylinder and mount. I am working on a 71-73 mounting bracket that will be extraordinarily slim and allow the master to pivot while in operation.

Doing it on one car is a cake walk, however being able to put something in a box and send it to a car owner for a repeatable installation with no welding or crazy tools necessary is a trick. If the system is not relatively easy to install and durable to the tune of 100,000 pumps on the clutch pedal then I will be reading hate mail all day every day. For the sake of our customers (and my selfish desire not to get death threats) I will only put a well sorted product on the market.

I have designed hydraulic systems, transmission systems, shifter mechanisms, clutches and cross members so I am sure I will be able to solve the issues.

Wish me luck.

 
The headache is coming from the odd shape of the clutch arm, which causes the master cylinder rod to follow an arc, which will cause the rod to bend. We are fixing that with a pair of tandem spherical rod ends.

The other issue is that the area where the master generally resides on the firewall (in every other car on God's green Earth) sits in a 1.75" wide slot between the steering joint and the frame rail. This is a very narrow opening for a master cylinder and mount. I am working on a 71-73 mounting bracket that will be extraordinarily slim and allow the master to pivot while in operation.

Doing it on one car is a cake walk, however being able to put something in a box and send it to a car owner for a repeatable installation with no welding or crazy tools necessary is a trick. If the system is not relatively easy to install and durable to the tune of 100,000 pumps on the clutch pedal then I will be reading hate mail all day every day. For the sake of our customers (and my selfish desire not to get death threats) I will only put a well sorted product on the market.

I have designed hydraulic systems, transmission systems, shifter mechanisms, clutches and cross members so I am sure I will be able to solve the issues.

Wish me luck.
Maybe an option is to bellcrank (ball raced) the linkage on the frame rail in the spot where your trying to locate the cylinder..this way you could fab a mount to get the cylinder lower & or higher out of the 1.75 zone..Just a thought

 
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The headache is coming from the odd shape of the clutch arm, which causes the master cylinder rod to follow an arc, which will cause the rod to bend. We are fixing that with a pair of tandem spherical rod ends.

The other issue is that the area where the master generally resides on the firewall (in every other car on God's green Earth) sits in a 1.75" wide slot between the steering joint and the frame rail. This is a very narrow opening for a master cylinder and mount. I am working on a 71-73 mounting bracket that will be extraordinarily slim and allow the master to pivot while in operation.

Doing it on one car is a cake walk, however being able to put something in a box and send it to a car owner for a repeatable installation with no welding or crazy tools necessary is a trick. If the system is not relatively easy to install and durable to the tune of 100,000 pumps on the clutch pedal then I will be reading hate mail all day every day. For the sake of our customers (and my selfish desire not to get death threats) I will only put a well sorted product on the market.

I have designed hydraulic systems, transmission systems, shifter mechanisms, clutches and cross members so I am sure I will be able to solve the issues.

Wish me luck.
Maybe an option is to bellcrank (ball raced) the linkage on the frame rail in the spot where your trying to locate the cylinder..this way you could fab a mount to get the cylinder lower & or higher out of the 1.75 zone..Just a thought
Not a bad idea. If I can get the angle correct between the master and the pedal with a ball joint (not the kind in your suspension) mounted to the frame rail that would solve the firewall mounting issue. You're thinking out there, folks, and it is much appreciated!!!! We have a side mount master on the shelf. I'm off to tinker.

 
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Forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean by "repop"?
we have been using that term for "reproduction"!!! its all good man. each forum has their own terminology on some things!

 
Not a bad idea. If I can get the angle correct between the master and the pedal with a ball joint (not the kind in your suspension) mounted to the frame rail that would solve the firewall mounting issue. You're thinking out there, folks, and it is much appreciated!!!! We have a side mount master on the shelf. I'm off to tinker.

I've been flying r/c helis & airplanes for over 30 years..wanna talk about linkage setup :cool: all the heli linkages use ball joints...The beauty of the bellcrank is you can change the ratios of throw you need simply by moving the linkage in or out along the throw arm..& it's pretty easy to convert a push to a pull & vs versa.

Heres some serious linkage setup to ponder

100_2123.JPG100_2124.JPG

 
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Not a bad idea. If I can get the angle correct between the master and the pedal with a ball joint (not the kind in your suspension) mounted to the frame rail that would solve the firewall mounting issue. You're thinking out there, folks, and it is much appreciated!!!! We have a side mount master on the shelf. I'm off to tinker.

I always love the merging of ideas from different hobbies that I'm interested in. :). Good idea Qcode.

I've been flying r/c helis & airplanes for over 30 years..wanna talk about linkage setup :cool: all the heli linkages use ball joints...The beauty of the bellcrank is you can change the ratios of throw you need simply by moving the linkage in or out along the throw arm..& it's pretty easy to convert a push to a pull & vs versa.

Heres some serious linkage setup to ponder

 
Gray, if u r reproducing our clutch pedals as well, could u just rig up what YOU want on the pedal side? I mean as long as u make it clear like the OE, u could put the attachment point where u want or mod something on it!

Would this make it easier?

But of course just include it in the kit!

 
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