Ac hoses needed

My ac was fixed for about 15 mins then a pin hole developed in one on the hoses from the expansion valve to the compressor.  At least i know my ac is working but now i need to replace that hose and i guess i should replace the other one also. Are these hoses available or do they need to be made and if so where/who makes them?g

I got all new hoses from NPD.

I do not see the two hoses I need on any vendor site, here is NPD but no listing for hoses from expansion valve to compressor?? UNLESS I am miss understanding it, the evaporator would be in the cabin so that would attach to the expansion valve? If so then this hose would be the one I need perhaps?? https://www.npdlink.com/product/hose-suction-line-evaporator-to-compressor-repro-oe/103355/209614

https://www.npdlink.com/1965-1973-mustang/heating-cooling/air-conditioning-components/hoses-rigid-tubes-valves-and-related?page=2

I do not see the two hoses I need on any vendor site, here is NPD but no listing for hoses from expansion valve to compressor??  UNLESS I am miss understanding it, the evaporator would be in the cabin so that would attach to the expansion valve?  If so then this hose would be the one I need perhaps?? https://www.npdlink.com/product/hose-suction-line-evaporator-to-compressor-repro-oe/103355/209614

https://www.npdlink.com/1965-1973-mustang/heating-cooling/air-conditioning-components/hoses-rigid-tubes-valves-and-related?page=2

Click to expand...

There’s 4 hoses. Theses are the ones I got from NPD. Here’s their part numbers & description.

19835-4a  Line and hose, 90 degree liquid 

19837-4a  Hose, liquid line, sight glass

198675b  Hose, suction line, evaporator T

19972-4a  Hose, a/c discharge, 24 inch

I also installed a new expansion valve, condenser and dryer.

19835-4a  Line and hose, 90 degree liquid 

19837-4a  Hose, liquid line, sight glass

198675b  Hose, suction line, evaporator T

19972-4a  Hose, a/c discharge, 24 inch

Click to expand...

thanks, looks like this is the main one I need, 3rd on your list:  https://www.npdlink.com/product/hose-suction-line-evaporator-to-compressor-repro-oe/103355/209614

I guess the other one would be the 4th on your list then.

Also, once I have these hose (s) can I replace them myself being all the R134 has escaped then bring it to a shop for a re-charge or is it more complicated then that?

I guess if you are sure the system is empty. I replaced mine but I don’t know what your capabilities are. It’s just a remove and replace thing, not very difficult. Just make sure to put the new green o-rings on with the lube that’s supplied. If you don’t feel comfortable doing it then just have the shop do it. But I think you can do it.

The most difficult thing that a DIYer faces is pulling most of the air out of the system before charging it. You need to pull 18 or 19 inches Hg to get it evacuated, which is beyond the capabilities of a hand operated pump, both due to the amount of vacuum and the quantity of air in the system. If the system won't hold vacuum it likely won't hold pressure, either. Everything else is straight forward.

does it all leak out of the pin hole the geyser was gushing yesterday or would there be some left as pressure is gone? Being I will have to have the shop do the proper charge guess they can replace the hoses if that is the case, like to save any money I can on labor when possible but do not want to mess anything up.

The most difficult part of the hose replacement is the two connections at the firewall. They are a pain to get to and the aluminum fittings can seize up. It's not a huge problem if you know what you're dealing with and have the tools. IMO, if you're the least bit uncomfortable, I'd probably have the AC shop do it.

You need to put a big wrench on the expansion valve to keep from twisting the lines going inside the car. You need a set of line wrenches to do a good job on the lines. Once you get them off clean the internal threads with a clean tooth brush. Get the o-rings at your local parts house and I use mineral oil to apply to the o-rings as you install them. As with any compression type fitting, brakes, AC, gas you need to tighten and loosen several times to get the shape to conform. I put a little never seize on the male thread on the line so they do not lock up the next time. Do not get inside the line and do not apply to the female threads. You can put a little mineral oil on the female threads and on the flares to lube so easier to get sealed.

If the shop did not replace the dryer filter you need to. Also if they did not install new schrade valves in the service ports do that also. 

If you do not have the vacuum pump Harbor Freight sells them for less than the AC shop charges for doing a vacuum on the system. Follow the instructions with the pump. You more or less hook it up and let it run and once you get a vacuum pulled you let is set go eat lunch and come back and if no drop you have good connections. 

I do not remember what year your car was. 71 & 72 had different service ports so you could isolate the compressor but not on 73. 

I would suck all the oil out of the compressor and put in new, should be at your parts house.

Once you get the system to hold vacuum you can take and get filled or you can buy the gauges at Harbor Freight and do yourself. Be sure and get refrigerant with the dye in it so is you get a leak you can find with black light.