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Hello everyone, i want to apologize in advance, im new here and if i do anything wrong or if my spelling isn’t that great, english is not my first language! 
 

so to make a long story short, a while ago my dad passed away and left me a 1973 mach 1. 

It was his life work, he has been working on it since before i was born, my childhood is full of memories of me ”helping” him work on it.

He almost got done restoring it. The only thing left is the interior. 
It is now my time to pick up the torch and complete this restoration and its very.. overwhelming.

where do i even start? I work as a car mechanic and hope to figure stuff out as i go, but where do i even start?

i have attached some pictures of the current state of the interior as well of some parts that have been removed.

Are you supposed to put insulation under the floor mat? 
it looks like insulation have been removed on the roof, should i put insulation on the roof?

any help would be greatly appreciated! 
or if anyone have suggestions in what order i should do stuff and whatnot.

any links to information would also be appreciated, my google skills are not the best.

and again, sorry if i post this in the wrong place or anything like that 

best regards, Alex.

EDIT: dont know where i got -73 from, pretty sure its a -71

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Edited by ATP
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Yes, it originally had insulation under the floor mat and in the roof. A popular substitute for the original fiber insulation (sound deadener) is Dynamat and similar products:

Dynamat XGMC1D (summitracing.com)

Summit Racing SUM-879020 Summit Racing® Ultra Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats | Summit Racing

A similar lower cost product is available from hardware stores:

Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing in the Roll Flashing department at Lowes.com

Welcome to the forum, from Oregon

 

Edited by Don C
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“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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I will be doing the headliner fabric in mine in a few weeks. What I know so far for sure is it goes under the Windshield and rear glass, so the come out.

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38 minutes ago, Don C said:

Yes, it originally had insulation under the floor mat and in the roof. A popular substitute for the original fiber insulation (sound deadener) is Dynamat and similar products:

Dynamat XGMC1D (summitracing.com)

Summit Racing SUM-879020 Summit Racing® Ultra Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats | Summit Racing

A similar lower cost product is available from hardware stores:

Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing in the Roll Flashing department at Lowes.com

Welcome to the forum, from Oregon

 

Was unaware the peel and seal stuff, good to know as the others seam a bit pricey.

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We tore the interior out of ours awhile ago to get some welding done. While everything was removed I painted all the metal with 2 coats of enamle useing a brush. Was much nicer crawling around on a shiny painted surface as aposed to the rust and tar.also adds an extra layer of protection if theres wate leaks.A wire cup wheel on the drill did a great job cleaning befor paint

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19 hours ago, Don C said:

Yes, it originally had insulation under the floor mat and in the roof. A popular substitute for the original fiber insulation (sound deadener) is Dynamat and similar products:

Dynamat XGMC1D (summitracing.com)

Summit Racing SUM-879020 Summit Racing® Ultra Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats | Summit Racing

A similar lower cost product is available from hardware stores:

Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing in the Roll Flashing department at Lowes.com

Welcome to the forum, from Oregon

 

Thanks for the reply! 
 

it looks likes my father bought stuff like you linked, as seen in one of my pictures, i also found a big roll of asphalt membrane, i guess the plan was to use the asphalt membrane aswell? Is that a common thing? 
 

thanks in advance.

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19 hours ago, Ryunker said:

I will be doing the headliner fabric in mine in a few weeks. What I know so far for sure is it goes under the Windshield and rear glass, so the come out.

Wow, i never could have guessed, thank you so much for that information! 
 

haha, it is not like modern cars 

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, MustangSally44 said:

We tore the interior out of ours awhile ago to get some welding done. While everything was removed I painted all the metal with 2 coats of enamle useing a brush. Was much nicer crawling around on a shiny painted surface as aposed to the rust and tar.also adds an extra layer of protection if theres wate leaks.A wire cup wheel on the drill did a great job cleaning befor paint

Thanks for the info! From what i can see from underneath the car (pristine) i wont be needing to do any work on the actuall floor, purely interior.

Since you tore out the interior recently, do you have any opinions in what order i should do stuff? My plan is as follows:

1. Remove the old tar(?) mats 

2. clean it up and install asphalt membrane across the entite floor

3. Install insulation (fabric) on top of the asphalt mat

4. Put in the floor mat 

5. put insulation on the roof

6. Install the new roof headliner

7. Install the side panels and misc trim that helps keep the floor mat in place (?)

8. Seats, belts, center console and stuff like that

 

if you or anyone reading this think i missed something or if this sound like a great or a terrible plan, let me know!

Thanks in advance

Edited by ATP
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Welcome!

It is always a daunting task to put something together that you didn't take apart!

I think you have a good process list there, my only suggestion would be to work from the top down. That way nothing will drop or potentially damage the underlayment or carpeting if you are working on the headliner or something messy up high.

So:

1. Remove the old tar(?) mats 

2. clean floor, do anything messy (wire wheeling sanding, etc.)

3. clean roof, prep for insulation

4. put insulation on the roof

5. Install the new roof headliner

6. Install sail panels and misc trim that helps keep the headliner inpplace

7. install asphalt membrane across the entire floor

8. Install insulation (fabric) on top of the asphalt mat

9. Put in the floor mat 

10. Install the side panels and misc trim that helps keep the floor mat in place (?)

11. Seats, belts, center console and stuff like that

Hopefully others have some suggestions or point out better order of things than I have...

Edited by mjlan
revise order

Matt

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Just to add, many reproduction parts are available, such as carpet, door and dash panels, new seat foam and covers….depending on budget, you could refresh a lot of those parts…I am doing a convertible interior and spending in the range of $2500-$3500 to refresh just about everything…

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Welcome from Ohio.   Sorry to hear about your lost.  You have come to the right place for help on your project.  Below are a couple of links that might help you out some with reassembling your car and info about your car from the vin.   By the way, the official language of this website is "stang"! :biggrin:

 Mustang VIN and Data Plate Decoding Archives - Average Joe Restoration

 

 

Edited by Kilgon

Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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Hello and welcome from SW Ontario, Canada.

I don't have a pic of the roof insulation I used, but I got it from NPD (National Parts depot). but here is a pic or two of the floor. I used an insulation from NPD as well. I don't remember what the name is now. It was far less expensive to Dynamat, but to be honest, I wish I had used it now.

The floor in my 71 Mach 1 was pristine, but I did coat it with rocker guard (NOT asphalt type).

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Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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some thing we did that helped alot was to make studs out of bolts to align the carpet to the seat bolt holes in the floor, then install the seats on the studs. Unscrew a stud,screw in a seat bolt. everything stays lined up and you can find the hole.

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18 hours ago, MustangSally44 said:

BTW that rocker guard looks great.

Thanks, it was just for a little extra protection. Rocker Guard is better than asphalt undercoating and won't melt.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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18 hours ago, MustangSally44 said:

some thing we did that helped a lot was to make studs out of bolts to align the carpet to the seat bolt holes in the floor, then install the seats on the studs. Unscrew a stud, screw in a seat bolt. everything stays lined up and you can find the hole.

Great idea!

Tip; use a solder iron to burn the hole through the carpet for the bolts. These carpets are (usually) single filament, so burning the hole won't cause the thread to pull and wreck the carpet.

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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On 8/2/2021 at 7:54 PM, ATP said:

where do i even start? I work as a car mechanic and hope to figure stuff out as i go, but where do i even start?

Got my 429 with everything (kinda) in boxes and buckets inside it. Always hard to take some project over.
I took one thing at a time (everything needs be done anyway) and at some point the "todo" started to become more obvious
and you can then organise by work/category/car regions...

Looking forward to read about your progresses!

Welcome from the northern Netherlands

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello from North Carolina.
I have an original 73 Mach 1 and yes yours appears to be a 71 if steering wheel is right was a one year thing for the round small center horn button on the standard interior.
So I do not know if your dad had the windshield and back glass out when he painted the car or not. They do need to come out to install the headliner. Also the side roof rails need to come off.
Now on the rear glass Ford used a foam tape that does not work they also used foam tape to attempt to seal the roof rail and again it does not work.
Here is a link to the 3-M #08509 Auto Bedding & Glazing Compound that is use for rubber seals like in the rear window. https://www.jbtools.com/3m-08509-auto-bedding-and-glazing-compound-cartridge-1-10-gallon/?wi=off&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI58X75s-48gIVReHICh0x5gpVEAQYASABEgJBavD_BwE

DO NOT USE THE URETHANE LIKE IS USED TO INSTALL THE FRONT WINDSHIELD.  It only takes a tiny amount to seal it up. When you have the rear glass out if your dad did not hammer the flange flat and grind any rough areas you need to. Also if any rust that needs to be taken care or. File or grind the corner off of the opening so the new rubber seal pulls in easily. There are some youtube videos out there on how to install the rear glass using a nylon string, same way factory did it. DO NOT GO BY WHAT CJ PONY HAS ON THEIR YOUTUBE VIDEO THEY ARE IDIOTS.
With the rear glass out you should make sure all the trim clips are in good shape and replace if needed. Trial fit the aluminum trim before you put the window back in. There are special tools that are cheap to remove the trim and again videos out there. You will need a helper on the glass removal and install.
The front windshield trim comes off the same way as back. But there is no rubber seal for the windshield. You use the 3-M strip Urethane to install it. One of our members recently did both to a 71 Mach 1 and he has video.
I would not go crazy on applying paint or sealers on the inside floor. No reason to. It will probably never get wet unless your cowl leaks or roof rail.
Put some of the foil backed insulation on the inside of the roof and put the headliner back in and then the windows and then the roof rail. On sealing the roof rail I use the 3-M strip calk and put two beads on the trim. There are lots of ups and downs to seal off there. If the roof rails are on there are phillips screws under the rubber seal. You will have to destroy the rubber seal to get to them. Get a new set from NPD and make sure they are Daniel Carpenter seals. Pictures attached of the 3-M material and on the roof rail.
When removing the screws put a phillips bit in the screw and hit a couple times with a hammer to break the rust loose. You can get new screws at any hardware they are very common. Clean the old glue, sealer and gasket off the roof rail with lacquer thinner outside your shop. Very flammable.
On the floors there was seam sealer from the factory and then about a 1/2" thick sound mat made from fiber and asphalt coated. Your dad might have bought what he did to replace the old. If you get too much stuff in there difficult to get the seat belts and seat tracks back in. It is not like you will be driving the car lots and need it super quiet. New carpet has a fiber backing on it also to help with noise.
Here are some pics of the floor in my Mach 1 and the roof rails.
Keep asking questions if something is not going in easy you are probably doing something wrong. The blue tape around the rear window marks where the clips are. If it takes more than finger pressure to install something is wrong. You will destroy the trim if you hammer on it and the repo junk does not fit and is way softer also.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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