Trunk replacement without cutting it in pieces

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MustangGuy2k

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So I was watching a few online videos showing how to replace a trunk panel. They recommend cutting it on the ends over the frame support rail so you have a solid weld area. Here's the thing I'm not only replacing my trunk panel and the two drop down panels, but also the quarter panel and outer wheel wells on both side (see pic). Seems to me when I cut out the quarter and the outer wheel well I can slip the trunk pan throw that opening without cutting.

Anyone else tried this method and do you think it will work?

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How's the condition of the taillight panel? Considering the rot in those quarters, I'd be surprised if it's any different.

I cut out the center of the taillight panel, did the trunk floor and outer wheelhouses, then removed the remainder of the taillight panel and the quarter fillers and put it all back together. The quarter fillers came from Don @ Ohio Mustang off a parts car. Be sure to fill holes the '73-only bumper filler strip and end caps.


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You can fit a new trunk pan in through the trunk lid opening. Its tight but can be done. Also if that much stuff is rusted you would probably need the tail light panel anyhow, so then its really easy to access
Watch out for which pan you get. I bought one from CJ and it was about 4” short of what I needed. I was trying to save money from the one NPD sold that has a freight charge. The CJ one doesn’t get up over that back hump where the shocks mount. If all you need is pretty much the flat part, you’re good. In my case I cutoff the old from all the seams and then found out it was short. CJ was nice enough to refund me because it didn’t show dimensions in the description. Still cost me twice as much to the right pan but the NPD one was spot on. I have pics if interested.
 
When I bought mine from CJ I picked it up and was offered the extra piece. They say that it is cut off for shipping. This was about 17 years ago. It was bare metal back then.
 
Mustangs Unlimited used to offer it both ways - trimmed for UPS-friendly shipping, or complete for freight or pickup.
Agree. NPD had the big piece that required freight but they were nice and cut me a break. CJ only had the short version, maybe a bigger one was out of stock. I’ve still got the shorter version in the box in my garage. They just credited back and told me to keep it. Great for me if I can find a buyer. Otherwise just one more box cramming up my garage. I went crazy last year buying all the main parts I needed for my Mach 1 restoration. I didn’t think about how big this stuff was. It fills 1/2 my one car garage. I can’t put most in because it requires me to complete other projects first. I.e. I can’t put the front end or hood on until I install the engine which is about 70% done.
 
I wish I would have posted this first, because your right the panel is shorter and doesn't go back to where the actual original panel did. I can make this work because the rust doesn't go back that far. The problem still lays in the size and not being able to get it in the trunk without cutting it. Anyone, anyone have a treat to getting this full panel in without cutting out the back panel. Nothing wrong with my back panel and don't really want to redo it.
 
If you have the shorter repop, it will fit through the trunk lid opening. It’s tight and has to go in at an angle but it’s doable. I did my own that way.
 
So I was watching a few online videos showing how to replace a trunk panel. They recommend cutting it on the ends over the frame support rail so you have a solid weld area. Here's the thing I'm not only replacing my trunk panel and the two drop down panels, but also the quarter panel and outer wheel wells on both side (see pic). Seems to me when I cut out the quarter and the outer wheel well I can slip the trunk pan throw that opening without cutting.

Anyone else tried this method and do you think it will work?

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It will not work. You have the inner wheel house and the structure to get around.

Kcmash
 
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