Battery Relocation To Trunk- Parts List

[guys72Mach1]

I have always relocated my batteries to my trunk in my Mustangs. That would be years 66, 67 and 77.

Didn't do it on the 72 for some reason, but I have always liked the clean engine compartment look, plus it hooks up quicker with that weight over the axle. That's alot of weight distribution taken from the very front of the car and moving it back over the rear wheel.

You want to run atleast 1/0 cable, and you can run a shorty to the frame for the ground. You want to use a battery box and vent it out through the bottom of the quarter.

An open battery emits gas, and that's no good sitting in your trunk. You can pick up a real nice box, or just an inexpensive, marine type, both do the same thing.

Summit or Jegs have nice kits for a good price.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I'm going to side with running the ground cable up to the engine compartment. Technically it isn't necessary, but it eliminates a lot of resistance and isn't at all hard to do.

 

[73pony]

So I am going to do this as part of my current project (keeps growing from some reason). Question on the wire size. Is 2/0 AWG wire going to be too much? I can get a 25' length of it with the industrial EPR jacket for $60. Just curious if this will be too much and difficult to hide and secure.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Okay, so I did this last summer. I grounded to the chassis in the trunk after a little research. If going to the dragstrip with the car you also need a battery cutoff switch. Wiring it to be able to kill all electrical functions and not fry your alternator is important. I ended up running 2 2ga positive wires, one to the alternator and one back up to supply power to everything

Some of it is detailed here http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-trunk-mount-battery-cable-questions

I used that location because it allowed me to mount the box to the frame rail, gave me access to drop the vent tube down the inner quarter panel drop off and just drill a small hole. My negative battery cable is grounded to the structure of the seatback, my cable run up over the wheel well- through the chase under the door, up through the firewall projection that manual transmission cars have since I added AC and it was accessible up along the inside of the fender and then into the engine compartment near the starter solenoid position.

It also was perfectly located to stuck a hole in one of the honeycomb sections for my "Push off" switch and still allows my trap door to open and close.

Only other alteration required was to remove the hold down for the factory spare tire, but mine was already gone.