I had been working on the earlier Ford electronic ignition systems from the early-70s, and their early Electronic Ignition and Electronic Engine Control systems (EEC 1 and EEC 2) from the mid-70s. Back in those dark days we has all kinds of problems with Electronic Ignition Modules causing a "Dies While Driving" problem - something the factory said was blown way out of proportion back then (they were in denial). The factory-required test equipment for those systems was not worth the powder to blow them to hell, as they tested only "then current" system circuits, not "while driving" during dynamic conditions. I found what caused those Ignition Modules to intermittently fail were heat, vibration, and shock.
Rather than use the Rotunda test equipment I used a brass shammer and an oscilloscope. I would set the Sun scope secondary ignition pattern to Superimposed Pattern, then while watching the scope begin to tap, later begin to hit harder, the ignition module (in its durable metal encasement),, looking for any shock instigated flicker or pattern deviation, If I saw such a flicker or pattern deviation I replaced the module. Otherwise I would look at other issues (plugged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, etc.). The technique was so effective that the number of actually bad units proportionately in the replaced units under warranty caused Ford to realize our return of modules that were actually good was at a near zero level in comparison to other dealerships. They actually flew an engineer out, unannounced, to see what we were doing.
One of the first things the engineer asked me is if I was turning ignition work away. I laughed and said, "No, I found a really good way to test these modules that is pretty much foolproof." "Oh, really? What makes you think it is foolproof," he asked (in front of our Service Manager, who was getting nervous). "Well, for one I do not get customer comebacks on cars I do not install a replacement module on, I stopped wasting time on replacing modules and hoping for the best, I spend more time tracing down the actual problem they are having - usually plugged fuel filters," I said. Further, if what I was doing was not effective you would not have flown out here from Michigan to see what we are doing different, right?" Yeah, our test technique was so good that they saw the deviation from other dealership repairs. Modules replaced under warranty were often required the dealership to send warranty replaced modules back to the factory for deeper inspection. Modules found to not be bad resulted in the dealer being back-charged for a needless repair. The modules we were sending them were indeed bad, our charge-back rate for replaced modules was zero. A statistical near impossibility based on what they saw elsewhere across the country. There was something definitely different with our dealership... And their numbers showed it.
The engineer, Lee Sanders, sat back and said (almost mockingly), "Okay, will you share with me what it is you are doing so special?" "Sure." Then I described how I use a brass mallet and oscilloscope to test the modules. He looked art me incredulously, and said, "You have got to be kidding me!" So, I invited him to come back to my shop stalls so I could show him. As it turned out I was working on a 1978 Ford Fairmont with a 302 2v engine, which had come in for a routine tuneup. It also had a Red Grommet electronic Ignition Module (more prone to failure than the Blue or Black Grommet modules). I pointed to the shelf under my main work bench and told him to pick any Red Grommet module he saw, all which had been replaced by me. He grabbed one and I told him it is one that failed my mallet test. But, before testing that old unit I told him I would test the 78 Fairmont's current module. I hooked up the scope, started the engine, put the display in Superimposed mode and began to tap the module as he watched the screen. I began hit hit the module harder. "Did you see anything," I asked. "No," he said. "That is because this is a good module, at least for now," I said.
I then killed the engine, and installed the old module, and restarted the engine. I told him to watch the screen carefully and look for any flicker or change in the ignition pattern. I began to tap, then asked, "Did you see it?" "I think so, I'm not sure," he said. So I tapped again, a little harder. That time he saw it. "That, Mr. Sanders, is a bad module." How can you be so sure," he asked. "Here is how..." I hit the module, hard, and the engine died immediately.
Those modules had all their circuitry sealed in epoxy. So I could not dig into the boards. But, I told him I surmised that during assembly not all soldered connections are solid, There may be some cold joint soldered connections, or other components that begin to fail when exposed to the heat and vibrations we subject the modules to under an engine hood.
He asked me to re-re-repeat the same test using several different old Red Grommet modules I had under my bench (I had a lot as I used them as spacer blocks for some trucks on the lifts). Every one of them flickered upon impact with the brass mallet. He then asked what would happen if I hit a new or good module really hard. I asked if he would be willing to install a new module on the 78 Fairmont in case a hard strike would damage the module and cause the customer problems down the road. He authorized a new module on the 78 Fairmont. So, on the original module on the Fairmont I hooked the scope back up and hit the module progressively harder. No flickering. I then belted it hard. No flicker. I then got my BFH (big 3 lb ball peen hammer) and hit it really hard. No flicker. I then replaced the now dinged module (from the iron hammer, not the brass mallet) with a new unit. He was convinced.
After going back to Michigan he shared his findings with some engineers, and they ultimately agreed my technique was a useful and effective approach in diagnosing bad modules. The next Ford Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) included my technique, but Lee Sanders put his own name on the article, as opposed to giving me credit for devising that technique. He probably got a nice bonus for a significant cost saving technique being published.
Anyway, not to needlessly belabor things in my past... I guess the point is I am not afraid of electronic ignition or electronic engine control systems, especially when I have my trusty hammer in hand! heh heh... And, I will concede electronic ignition systems offer some really nice advantages over older Point and Condenser primary ignition systems. But, for run of the mill cars driven on public roads (not raced on a track) a Point and Condenser ignition system can be set up to run more than plenty well. "Set up how," you ask? First set the initial point gap, then set the dwell angle for a more precise gap setting. Use a very thin amount of distributor point lubrication on the point cam lobes to keep the the rubbing block in the points assembly from wearing down too soon. And replace the points every 12,000 - 15,000 miles. Other than the arcing eventually necessitating replacement of the points, the old electro-mechanical points and condenser systems were plenty reliable. At really high RPMs we would get "point bounce." Dual Point distributors helped remedy that. But, the electronic ignition systems did help in those situations even better. And they helped manufacturers to move slowly into computer controlled engines over the years, a definite gain for us all.
For me, if any of our vintage cars came from the manufacturer with Points and Condenser, I will just keep using old school technology as it is more than good enough. That goes double for our 1969 Shelby GT500, as I want to keep that vehicle pure stock. And I will check my dwell angle once in a while just to make sure the points are not closing up due to the rubbing block wearing (despite being properly lubricated). For later engines with electronic ignition I will keep using their tried and true solutions, as later electronic (module) manufacturing techniques provided us ultra-reliable parts, at long last. Our 73 Mach 1 had a nice MSD distributor and 6A module when we purchased it 4 years ago. I kept the MSD system in it untouched for a year. Then I replaced the 6A module with a 6AL as I wanted the Rev Limiter feature. It was a direct plug and play swap of the two modules. But, I kept the 6A module in case the 6AL ever did fail, I now have a backup unit!
All that having been said, were I to replace a Points and Condenser system, or an aftermarket electronic ignition system with anything, it would likely be a Pertronix solution. But, I would likely get a spare system in case I ever had a problem and ran into an ignition problem. I would not want to use my brass mallet to test one of those systems, heh heh...
